Recent content by ishiyakazuo

How about: Lots of Early Adopters Fuming

I did contemplate breaking out the superglue. I've got a 3D printer, so I also considered making a replacement part, but compared to a molded ABS part, it's unlikely to hold up as well (unless somehow I design something better than Nissan's engineers). I guess I don't have too much to lose by...

Hi all, I've never heard of this being a thing, but my wife somehow managed to break the charge port lid opener handle on our 2012 SL. The bottom half of it just snapped off. There's still enough of it that it can be pulled and the charge port lid opens, but it's a real pain. I've looked...

I suspect they're recording all sorts of fun data like that...

Agreed, my 3D printed one slides in and out just fine as well. Yes, it's not super smooth, but to be honest, I don't care... I don't go out to my garage to caress it. My J1772 connector snaps onto it with a satisfying click and I know it's solid.

Lost my first bar yesterday (8/30). 25420 miles. SOH 84% (55.65AHr), Hx = 70.51%. Down from 56.04AHr (85% SOH) on 8/11, 56.42AHr (86% SOH) on 7/10. The first reading I took was back at the beginning of April, where I was at 56.91AHr/86% SOH at ~20600 miles. I haven't been babying the...

This is my understanding as well. Surface area is key for dissipating the heat. Now, there is something to what evfan310 is saying here, and I think it's been said before here: Certainly you can't enclose three 15A wires in an enclosed space and expect it to operate as well as a single 45A...

It seems that #1 only matters if you're getting reasonably close to the current carrying capacity of the wire. If you're on that hairy edge, then yes, that's an issue, but if you've got the wires braided together and then crimped, for example, they should be reasonably well-balanced. As far as...

I was looking at this recently... as I recall (can't find the post now), the lower draw of LED bulbs in some cases triggers a code on the CAN bus, so a resistor needs to be added to draw more current (thus negating some of the benefits of going LED).

I think this is a pretty good start, and I wish there was a go-to place with much of this info in one spot before I bought mine, so I applaud the effort! Here are my comments: - Capacity percentages should be a range in all cases. 12 bars is > 85%, 11 is 78.75-85%, and so on. It's much easier...

Here's a post I made when I was looking into this: http://www.mynissanleaf.com/viewtopic.php?f=30&t=10146&p=426686#p426686 The NO SD CARD screen provides the Unit Code and Serial Number, but not Confirmation Code. I'm questioning if knowing those three things will get you a new SD card now...

But what data would that be? Just the confirmation code and VIN? (The other two pieces of info the head unit provides under Information are displayed on the "NO SD CARD" screen anyway.)

OK, perhaps my wording was off. Let me put it another way. For every X chargers added to the Costco parking lot, to me that just means that X more cars will be sitting there for a long period of time and not opening up a parking spot to be used. Admittedly, considering how huge the Costco...

You're right... I was thinking of "gearless" as single gear ratio (i.e. no gear shifting), but yes, CVT actually doesn't have gears, whereas the LEAF does. Good catch.

Were the linked ones also Wolo? Couldn't find any info that links it to them.