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So even when manually engaging or disengaging the charge lock, it still refuses to drive and shows the charging port engaged? The car is entirely immobilized? Then the lock's feedback line or resistor is broken. That requires either replacing the entire lock or opening it up and...

The charge light comes on when exactly 4kWh is remaining in the battery. That should get you around 20km in most conditions, so yes - you still have 20 km left. I wouldn't cut it too close, though.

Going by Nissan terminology, there are four ways of differentiating generations: - By model year, pretty useless - By Nissan generation. Gen1 is the 24kWh with white interior and charger in the boot, gen2 is the later 24kWh, gen3 is 30kWh, gen4 is the 40kWh right after facelift (110kW motor)...

I'm not at liberty to share that :)

Your charging lock is defective or the cable is damaged/unclipped. Annoyingly that will immobilize your car. The lock sits on top of your charging port, and if you open your hood, there is a little square cutout in the plastic trim over the charging port that allows you to peek in and see the...

A million different weird errors that don't seem to correlate with each other is almost always the 12V battery, another vote for that pile!

We'd be happy to help, but don't have CAN bridges in stock at the moment. Later this week we'll likely have enough and can ship it out. Send us an email at [email protected]

It's not one number, because it depends on SoC and temperature. The peak discharge rating of the individual cells is 3C between 10-60C for 1 minute. Given that the pack is nominally 180Ah, that's 540A.

In short, we've been seeing this many times over the years, and we have a theory on what the root cause is of isolation faults in 40kWh packs. It's this: What you're seeing here is a 40kWh battery module, shell off. All of the cells except for the 4th from the right look fine, and the 4th...

Lots of uncertainty in this topic, since I've been toying with the CDM 2.0 hardware for a bit, here's some general facts: - The e-plus ships, as far as we can tell on all firmware versions available in the Netherlands, with a 200A current limit on CHAdeMO. This means the maximum technically...

You almost certainly have the wrong screen type, we made that mistake too. This is the correct one: https://www.aliexpress.com/item/1005005754437462.html?spm=a2g0o.order_list.order_list_main.113.5a4218028VpkM7 You can triple-check with the Clarion model number on your particular radio. If you...

This is a bad idea. But it's not super obvious why, so I'll give some insight. First of all, 18650s are really small, so you need lots and lots of them to make a pack. Each cell has two connections that you'll be hand-soldering or spot welding. Even if you're really good and only 0.1% of all...

It's not an overheating issue, it's an issue of the BMS not being able to keep up with the amount of charge mismatch in the cells. That happens both when fast charging and just using the car a lot. So you can still run into the same issue if you, say, drive the car a lot during the day and...

We've gotten a few reports from our Irish friends at Range Therapy that people in gen1 Leafs (so 2011-13) are not able to charge at Delta chargers, which look like this: We're wondering if anybody on this forum has experienced trouble at this exact type of fast charger. I can't find any in...

@DefenestratorNZ exactly which parameters do you want to extract?

No, this is not possible without quite a lot of additional electronics. The gen1 VCM 'does more' than the gen2+ VCM, there are some physical activation lines that have been transformed into CAN messages on gen2+ and there's quite a bit that changed to the CAN bridging aspect of the VCM. If you...

We've done some of this magic in the somewhat distant past. What essentially needs to be done is a remap of the capacity curve, where the CAN bridge reads the cell voltages from the battery every 10 seconds (the internal refresh interval) and calculates capacity based on that, plus some...

They all went to their local mechanic/dealer to get it fixed. The things that can go wrong are: - Lock is disabled - Mechanical issue with the door lock - Issue with the buttons - Wiring issue You need to narrow down the issue to one of these. Check the child lock on the door. Is it engaged...

If it's the 4th of april this year, you can definitely get this fixed by them. What happened is that the front wasn't secured at all and started flapping as it caught the wind. Very obvious issue, shouldn't be hard to get fixed under warranty (also: it's a cheap part and very easy to do)

Why not just use a commodity OBDII plug and leaf spy pro? Turbo3 has done all this work for you already.