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I do, but I haven't worked out to do it with the Tesla yet, so I'm going to hang onto it for now. Sorry.

So I purchased these Speedbleeders for my 2018 Nissan Leaf SV, and they fit perfectly: SB1010S-SS SB1010-SS (the shorter ones in the rear).

What brake fluid are you all using ? The manual. says to use "Genuine NISSAN Super Heavy Duty Brake Fluid". As best I can tell, this is Nisn part# 999MPA4132P ? But when I try to check out, I get a useless message that "unable to verify fitment". I also see part# 999MP-A4100P.

Apparently it was just crud in the charging connector. Our driveway is fine gravel, I guess we need to be more careful.

Today, our Leaf would not start charging when plugged into our home Level 2 EVSE; the indicator light on the EVSE did not illuminate, you didn't hear the relay click, and the car didn't lock in the J1772 connector. Tried it with the portable charging cord to confirm it was the car and not the...

Exactly what I was looking for, thnaks.

We're getting a Tesla, and I'd like to be able to do the same thing with it that me and others here have done with our Leaves. I suppose there's no reason it couldn't work more or less the same, but I want to look into it. Is anyone aware of a similar discussion on the interwebs for Teslas ?

I'll be selling a similar rig when we sell our Leaf soon, if anyone else wants one.

Well here's a random 1500watt pure-sine unit: https://invertersrus.com/product/cotek-sp-1500-112 Says it can draw 2650 VA surge (1 sec). How will the Lead react to that ? I've wondered if the problem of my 1000watt unit getting shut-down by the fridge could be the 12vdc sagging, and not...

So how big an inverter IS considered safe (for this scheme of hooking it to the Leaf's 12v system) ? I went with a 1000watt Xantrex just to be safe. But apparently my fridge is killing it (it shuts off) with an auto-defrost cycle. I've been trying to figure out how to temporarily disable...

A related question: if I run THWN in conduit for the EVSE, I need EGC and two hots. Must the two hots be black and red, or can both be black ?

The 16.5 amp figure is not startup current, it is minimum circuit ampacity (MCA). It's roughly similar to 13.4 * 125%.

Ok, thanks Wayne. Then a 16 amp unit it is, on 20amp circuit.

Yes, that is correct, for running the vacuum pump during install primarily. So, I'm taking from this that I'd be ok with a 16amp EVSE, wired on a 20amp double-pole breaker in the subpanel using 12awg wire (be it romex or THWN in conduit). However, is it not true that the issue is nuisance...

I was referring to Table 310.15(B)(16) aka. 310.16, the third column for THWN-2 rated at 90-degreesC. But it's picking nits. Probably want the 10awg for voltage drop anyhow...

At our vacation house, I installed a ductless minisplit heal-pump (to partially replace existing electric-resistance heat). Thinking I might want to add 1 or 2 additional minisplits in the future, I put in a 40 amp subpanel (fed with 8/3 NM-B and protected by a 40 amp breaker in the main...

Yes, but they don't have the adaptable plug like the OEM one does. I guess you'd need some kind of adapter to plug it into 120v outlet.

One thing that troubles me about buying one of these 25amp EVSEs (so it can plug into the dryer outlet by whatever machinations) is that I'd want to sell the OEM one. Except, as best I can tell, the new one wouldn't have the option to trickle-charge from a 120v outlet. The Zencar one...

Ok, good catch. Assuming it's one of those convertible plugs that allows the neutral blade to easily be removed (I've also seen ones that come with both a 14-30 and a 14-50 style neutral blade). Then I'd just use a 14-30 style extension cord. I think it makes more sense to get the 10-30...

Wow, Zencar just quoted me $167, plus shipping. Said they can put a 10-30 plug but not a 14-30 (I guess they just don't have one). I guess it's cool if I make an extension cord with 14-30P at one end, 10-30R at other end, and just use cheaper 10/3 cord.