USA CCS1 to ChaDeMo test…

My Nissan Leaf Forum

Help Support My Nissan Leaf Forum:

This site may earn a commission from merchant affiliate links, including eBay, Amazon, and others.
I can’t wait to get my CCS1 to ChaDeMo adapter for the US market and make a YouTube video about it. I have plans to test it, get it UL approved and certified for use at charging network providers. Standby..

Dala has tested a CCS2 model, I will be testing a CCS1 model.
The CCS2 version that I seen was $1,049 and a minimum purchase of 2. How much did this one cost and did you have to purchase 2? Any more details or website where we can go and check out this bad boy?
 
I can’t wait to get my CCS1 to ChaDeMo adapter for the US market and make a YouTube video about it. I have plans to test it, get it UL approved and certified for use at charging network providers. Standby..

Dala has tested a CCS2 model, I will be testing a CCS1 model.

Have you ever taken a product through UL testing?
 
and a minimum purchase of 2.
That seems to be a weirdness of the web site, designed more for Business To Business than trader to individual buyer. I've seen where they say that you can purchase just one, but I don't know how to get around the web site, probably message the manufacturer and pay them directly.

They should put their products on Ali Express or Ebay or similar.
 
Have you ever taken a product through UL testing?
Exactly. It's expensive and I can almost guarantee changes will be required. I've never seen a product at my previous employer get through CE or UL/TUV without one round of changes, and we pretested for unintentional transmission in house and sometimes had to add grounding.

The risk without UL is if it blows up your Leaf, it's completely your responsibility to fix. If it blows up the public charger, I assume there could be liability if they know this device was used.
 
Exactly. It's expensive and I can almost guarantee changes will be required. I've never seen a product at my previous employer get through CE or UL/TUV without one round of changes, and we pretested for unintentional transmission in house and sometimes had to add grounding.

The risk without UL is if it blows up your Leaf, it's completely your responsibility to fix. If it blows up the public charger, I assume there could be liability if they know this device was used.
My plan, after getting the CCS1 USA version (It’s ordered), is to do a YouTube Video. Then I plan on working with the supplier to do what is needed to get it UL approved. Once UL approved, or perhaps simultaneously, also get it network provider certified. I hopefully will be able to become the USA distributor, so it can be easily ordered and shipped from the USA. Lastly, work on the NACS version(s) and/or Adapter that is UL and Tesla supercharger approved.
 
My plan, after getting the CCS1 USA version (It’s ordered), is to do a YouTube Video. Then I plan on working with the supplier to do what is needed to get it UL approved. Once UL approved, or perhaps simultaneously, also get it network provider certified. I hopefully will be able to become the USA distributor, so it can be easily ordered and shipped from the USA. Lastly, work on the NACS version(s) and/or Adapter that is UL and Tesla supercharger approved.

UL approval is not simple or cheap. I'd guess that the supplier isn't interested. This is from a testing service:

https://ulassistance.com/whitepapers/understanding-the-ul-ce-csa-certification-process

"In a perfect situation, your product was designed for compliance to the applicable standards –
you own the current edition of the applicable product safety standards, and your design
engineers know the requirements. However, not many companies have these resources and
training. If you have not designed for compliance in this manner, your product is unlikely to
comply. The standards consist of hundreds of requirements and knowledge of the requirements
is needed in order to achieve success. And the fact is, most companies simply do not have a
compliance expert on staff."

A lot of the Chinese made EVSEs (and other electrical equipment) sold on Amazon don't have a UL listing. They range from fairly good to dangerous junk, and good luck sorting them out.

This product is more complex than an EVSE.
 
This is great to hear and I'm sure I'm not I'm not alone in wishing you success. The quicker the better. :) I hope this comes to fruition. I would much prefer a US source of a UL approved device.

I purchased an early pre-UL Emporia EVSE. I asked a year later if I could update it to the UL version they released. They did this for $100 including shipping. I had to move the cables over (which I didn't mind at all). They are a great company. Oddly, they still offer non-UL units at a discount. And in inspecting the 2 units there were only 2 very minor changes to the PCB.
 
Last time I went to UL for certification for a EVSE it was going to cost $70K. This year will be interesting because there is legislation to make online retailers have same liability as brick and mortar stores. If they do, we won't be finding those non certified EVSE adaptors on Amazon any longer.

I wonder how insurance company view losses from non tested devices?
 
I can’t wait to get my CCS1 to ChaDeMo adapter for the US market and make a YouTube video about it. I have plans to test it, get it UL approved and certified for use at charging network providers. Standby..

Dala has tested a CCS2 model, I will be testing a CCS1 model.
I supercharged on ChaDeMo the other day because I forgot to plug my car in the day before and I had a lot of errands to do. Plus there was a Nissan dealer with free charging (!) only 3 minutes from where I was going. So I pulled in with 30% and let her rip. Ate lunch and I had 90% which was gud’nuff. I hear that supercharging eventually eats the battery though so I don’t want to do it very often. Ccs for me as much as possible I think. I’ve got a trickle charger too because I understand the 12v doesn’t charge when the car is plugged in. Only when you are moving.
 
I supercharged on ChaDeMo the other day because I forgot to plug my car in the day before and I had a lot of errands to do. Plus there was a Nissan dealer with free charging (!) only 3 minutes from where I was going. So I pulled in with 30% and let her rip. Ate lunch and I had 90% which was gud’nuff. I hear that supercharging eventually eats the battery though so I don’t want to do it very often. Ccs for me as much as possible I think. I’ve got a trickle charger too because I understand the 12v doesn’t charge when the car is plugged in. Only when you are moving.
Rapid (CHAdeMO) charging heats the traction battery, which if done a lot, isn't good for it -- but it doesn't eat the battery. Driving faster than around 50 mph also heats the battery, and you may do rather more of that.

The 12V battery charges all the time when the big traction battery is in use, both driving (in what Nissan call Ready state, the equivalent of having the engine running in a petrol car) and charging with either power inlet. It charges for a few minutes every day if the car's Off for long enough, and is supposed to charge if the voltage drops while On but not ready to drive.

(Comments based on the Nissan e-NV200, minivan younger sister to the original LEAF - but there's not a lot of difference between them at this level of description. The van has a feeble battery cooler, which the car lacks.)
 
Rapid (CHAdeMO) charging heats the traction battery, which if done a lot, isn't good for it -- but it doesn't eat the battery. Driving faster than around 50 mph also heats the battery, and you may do rather more of that.

The 12V battery charges all the time when the big traction battery is in use, both driving (in what Nissan call Ready state, the equivalent of having the engine running in a petrol car) and charging with either power inlet. It charges for a few minutes every day if the car's Off for long enough, and is supposed to charge if the voltage drops while On but not ready to drive.

(Comments based on the Nissan e-NV200, minivan younger sister to the original LEAF - but there's not a lot of difference between them at this level of description. The van has a feeble battery cooler, which the car lacks.)
Ah. I got the impression that it was worse for it than that.
 
Rapid (CHAdeMO) charging heats the traction battery, which if done a lot, isn't good for it -- but it doesn't eat the battery. Driving faster than around 50 mph also heats the battery, and you may do rather more of that.

The 12V battery charges all the time when the big traction battery is in use, both driving (in what Nissan call Ready state, the equivalent of having the engine running in a petrol car) and charging with either power inlet. It charges for a few minutes every day if the car's Off for long enough, and is supposed to charge if the voltage drops while On but not ready to drive.

(Comments based on the Nissan e-NV200, minivan younger sister to the original LEAF - but there's not a lot of difference between them at this level of description. The van has a feeble battery cooler, which the car lacks.)
Every time I plug L2 in I see 12 volt house battery jump over 13 volts and drift down.
 
Back
Top