Engine Oil Quality, Oil Life Monitors and Change Intervals

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AndyH

Well-known member
Joined
Apr 23, 2010
Messages
6,388
Location
San Antonio
Split from here:
http://www.mynissanleaf.com/viewtopic.php?p=57108#p57108

AndyH said:
mogur, changing engine oil too often will do more damage than running it until the oil life system tells you to change -- as long as you're using the man-made synthetic long-life oil that the oil life monitor is calibrated around. Unlike the US oil life monitors that do not have any sensors that touch the oil, the Euro systems have sensors in the oil pan that work with the computer models (all built with hundreds of thousands of oil analysis results). I've added oil to a Mercedes Sprinter van and watched the oil life display ADD miles to the oil life based on the improved properties of the oil in the sump. The sytem works and can be trusted!
mogur said:
First, I've never heard of or seen any data that changing oil too often is detrimental, except to your pocket book and perhaps the environment.
I'll dig thru my library and get back with you on a reference. In the mean time, enjoy this article. After reading the info on how the anti-wear additives are removed/replated after new oil is introduced into the system, I did a couple of oil changes in my VW and did a series of oil samples at 500 mile intervals - and the rate of wear increased in the early portion of the new interval and was highest between 2000 and 3000 miles. The rate of wear dropped, stabilized, and remained in a zone until the oil started breaking down at end of life. In addition, as you might have read in the linked article), oil volatility is a factor - the lighter elements in the base oil and additive package tend to volatilize early in the oil change interval and this leads to contamination of oxygen sensors and exhaust aftertreatment devices (catalytic converters, etc.). (a 100% man-made synthetic has much lower volatility. The US 'synthetics' with at least some Group III have higher volatility. More below.)
mogur said:
Second, BMWs of my era of car do not use sensors, they use a system that assigns counts based on how long you drive for each startup, the temperature of the oil at startup and shutdown, how long you idle, and the mileage traveled. The more counts, the sooner it recommends an oil change. Oil analysis I've done has shown that I am in the sweet spot with my regime.
I guess my Euro generalization was a bit too broad - thanks. My desire for the post was to instill confidence in the system as long as one uses the proper oil quality. Regardless of pan sensor or not - the computer model is built from thousands of sets of oil analysis results from a wide range of driving.
mogur said:
The Vanos on early 2000's BMWs is particularly susceptible to oil quality and I suspect that the reason why I have had no problems with mine at such a high mileage is partially due to my oil change routine.
Why do you suggest that about 170K is 'high mileage' for a Euro car? As I've said, my VW in the driveway has 370K and change - on the original engine and turbo. ;)
mogur said:
BMW recommends an LL1 oil for my car and I believe they are now up to LL2 for their latest engines...
I don't know the OEM BMW specs as well as I know the general ACEA sequences and OEM VWAG specs. It appears that BMW updates their specs on a three-year cycle - BMW LL-98, BMW LL-01, BMW LL-04, etc.
mogur said:
One of the big drivers of longer oil change intervals (and spark plug life) for cars was the elimination of lead from fuel and the attendant acids and contaminants that they produced.
Removing lead helped but caused other problems that it took a combination of fuel changes, lube oil changes, and engine design changes to overcome. Regardless of lead, we're still burning a hydrocarbon fuel in an oxygen/nitrogen environment and still generating a host of contaminants and acids.

All else being the same, modifying engine oil to move from a 5000 mile oil change interval (OCI) to a 10,000 mile OCI requires that the base oil stay together for the duration. Then the oil needs more effective detergents to fight contaminants from both combustion and oil/additive break down. The oil needs more dispersant additives to keep cleaned contaminants in suspension and to keep them from agglomerating into...clumps...larger than bearing clearances and other passages. The oil needs more or stronger anti-oxidants and acid neutralizers. The oil needs more of the anti-wear additives that provide a sacrificial plating to fight metal to metal contact. While man-made synthetics generally don't use them, Group I, II, and III-based petroleum oils often require viscosity improver (VI) polymers to maintain the multi-grade temperature performance. The VI additives are usually the first components to be either chemically or physically broken down...and become the second or third targets for the detergent/dispersant additives after the old anti-wear package is cleaned and combustion byproducts are controlled.

Here's an example from three virgin oil analysis reports. These are 0W-20 oils on the market primarily for the Prius and other hybrids. There are a couple of different chemical compounds used as detergents, dispersants, and antiwear additives and they tend to be multi-function products. Looking at calcium, phosphorus, zinc, boron, and molybdenum will give us insight into those functions. Total base number gives us info on how long the oil can fight acid. Numbers are parts per million.

Oil 1: OEM 0W-20 (1 year or 10,000 mile OCI) (Group III)
Calcium: 1733
Phosphorus: 638
Zinc: 784
Boron: 200
Molybdenum: 1055
TBN: 6.53

Oil 2: Commercial 0W-20 (1 year or 10,000 mile OCI) (Group III/IV/V)
Calcium: 2599
Phosphorus: 733
Zinc: 879
Boron: 99
Molybdenum: 126
TBN: 8.45

Oil 3: Commercial 0W-20 (1 year or 25,000 mile OCI) (Group IV/V)
Calcium: 3376
Phosphorus: 737
Zinc: 892
Boron: 17
Molybdenum: 6
TBN: 10.10

[- Note the increasing level of calcium as the product's intended OCI increases - calcium is a primary component of the additive package's detergent.
- The moly in the first oil is likely a friction modifier. It works by plating on the engine's metal surfaces. It's activated by heat and pressure as are other extreme pressure additives. There must be metal to metal contact to provide the heat to activate the moly - one indicator that wear will increase until the moly is plated. One side effect of using moly is that it competes with the oil's anti-wear package, and its anti-rust/corrosion additives. The heavy use of moly also indicates that the oil is not a PAO/ester product as those bases have more than enough natural friction reducing properties - they generally don't need modifiers.
- Phosphorus and zinc are the prime components of ZDDP - a multi-function anti-wear, detergent, dispersant additive. Man-made synthetic oil has natural detergent properties in the PAO base oil and natural dispersant properties in the ester base oil component, so it doesn't need as strong an additive package to keep the engine clean. That's one reason why the third oil has more reserve detergent/dispersant capability than oil two even with similar levels of phosphorus and zinc.]

One other factor for oil change interval is oil and additive volatility. Most US oils, designed for much shorter drain intervals, and made primarily from petroleum, have lighter elements in the base oil that 'evaporate' off. Components from the additive package can volatilize as well. Not only to the vaporized elements tend to disrupt oxygen sensors, but the oil left behind is 'thicker' and consists of a higher number of longer-chain molecules. This thickened oil cannot lubricate as well. Man-made synthetic oil doesn't have the variable-length hydrocarbons in the base oil so there are significantly fewer lighter elements to boil off. The lower volatility means the oil stays in grade much longer and keeps the additives in the crankcase where they belong better than petroleum or petro-derived Group III 'synthetic'.

Here's a partial 'why'. The HVI product in the first diagram is Group III (highly processed petroleum) base oil.

pao.jpg

source: "Synthetic Lubricants and High-Performance Functional Fluids", 2nd edition, page 14

The man-made polyalphaolefin is tailor-made and doesn't have contaminants or non-essential hydrocarbon elements. There are no 'lighter elements' to volatilize and no 'heavier elements' to remain as a higher viscosity byproduct.

Back to your car and your OCI. I'm not surprised that your 8K OCI works for you considering the oil that you use and the likelihood that it contains some Group III. Exxon-Mobil has been reducing the PAO/ester content of their oil in favor of less expensive Group III for years - that's the meaning of their "tri-synthetic" and super syn advertising. Group III base stock is more variable in composition and performance as its performance changes depending on the base oil used. Your OCI sweet spot would very likely improve if you used a Euro synthetic product (which by law must be man-made) or one of the US boutique products that is Group IV/V based (provided one carried the proper LL-xx performance rating).
 
The first thing that happens after an oil change is the new detergents cleans the old additives off the metal engine parts. Next, the anti-wear additives (heat and pressure activated) plate on the metal parts. During the time in between the metal parts aren't protected as well and wear increases. Once again - the highest rates of wear during a normal oil change interval happen in the 200-3000 miles immediately after the oil is changed.

Can you cite a study, research or show data that support this?
 
Train said:
The first thing that happens after an oil change is the new detergents cleans the old additives off the metal engine parts. Next, the anti-wear additives (heat and pressure activated) plate on the metal parts. During the time in between the metal parts aren't protected as well and wear increases. Once again - the highest rates of wear during a normal oil change interval happen in the 200-3000 miles immediately after the oil is changed.

Can you cite a study, research or show data that support this?
As posted above, the studies I'm remembering were published by the SAE. I'll dig thru my reports and books and provide the references.
 
I'm sorry but without some very conclusive and scientific evidence to back it up, I have to put this one high up on the BS scale... Even more so with synthetics.

The first thing that happens after an oil change is the new detergents cleans the old additives off the metal engine parts. Next, the anti-wear additives (heat and pressure activated) plate on the metal parts. During the time in between the metal parts aren't protected as well and wear increases. Once again - the highest rates of wear during a normal oil change interval happen in the 200-3000 miles immediately after the oil is changed.
 
mogur said:
I'm sorry but without some very conclusive and scientific evidence to back it up, I have to put this one high up on the BS scale... Even more so with synthetics.

The first thing that happens after an oil change is the new detergents cleans the old additives off the metal engine parts. Next, the anti-wear additives (heat and pressure activated) plate on the metal parts. During the time in between the metal parts aren't protected as well and wear increases. Once again - the highest rates of wear during a normal oil change interval happen in the 200-3000 miles immediately after the oil is changed.
That's fine - no foul. As I said, I learned this early on in my continuing work toward a CLS certification. I'll dig back thru my collection of papers and SAE reports and cite a reference or two.
In the mean time, I hope you won't arm wrestle me on another problem with early changes - the volatility aspect. ;)

Take a look at the way moly bonds to metal surfaces, and the way that other extreme pressure additives bond, for a critical insight into what happens after an oil change.

mogur said:
Even more so with synthetics.
This is myth, plain and simple. While the base stock does give better extreme temperature performance, and doesn't contain contaminants, it's the 20-25% of the oil that contains the additive package that does most of the work - and these additives are depleted in use. Yes - PAO/ester based oil doesn't break down as readily and thus doesn't require clean-up, but oil lives or dies based on additive package performance. Dump some high-end synthetic base oil in two containers, then dose one with 25% of the additive package as the other - still think that they'll provide equal service because they're synthetic? ;)

As an aside - take a look at a spec sheet for Mobil 1 "100% synthetic except for carrier oil". The carrier oil is the petroleum that the additive package is dissolved in before final blending. So even Mobil 1 is technically a 'synthetic blend' even if the Group III content wasn't able to be called 'synthetic' in the USA. :D


As I've pointed out in the past, as a reliability tech it's my job to keep equipment out of your hands...so to speak. ;) :D

----
Any sufficiently advanced technology is indistinguishable from magic.
Arthur C. Clarke, "Profiles of The Future", 1961 (Clarke's third law)
English physicist & science fiction author
 
Hey Andy - let me guess - you must be a BITOG regular, eh? ;)

Thanks for your insight on oil - haven't been over to BITOG in a while...
 
drees said:
Hey Andy - let me guess - you must be a BITOG regular, eh? ;)

Thanks for your insight on oil - haven't been over to BITOG in a while...
Usta was. ;)

Welcome to the first MyNL meeting of BITOG Anonymous. Hello, my name is Andy and I'm an oil addict. :lol:
 
A friend just sent me these step by step instructions on how to change your own oil.

1) Wait until Saturday, drive to auto parts store and buy a case of oil, filter, kitty litter, hand cleaner and a scented tree, write a check for $50.00.
2) Stop by carryout and buy a case of beer, write a check for $20, drive home.
3) Open a beer and drink it.
4) Jack car up. Spend 30 minutes looking for jack stands.
5) Find jack stands under kid's pedal car.
6) In frustration, open another beer and drink it.
7) Place drain pan under engine.
8) Look for 9/16 box end wrench.
9) Give up and use crescent wrench.
10) Unscrew drain plug.
11) Drop drain plug in pan of hot oil: splash hot oil on you in process. Cuss.
12) Crawl out from under car to wipe hot oil off of face and arms. Throw kitty litter on spilled oil.
13) Have another beer while watching oil drain.
14) Spend 30 minutes looking for oil filter wrench.
15) Give up; crawl under car and hammer a screwdriver through oil filter and twist off.
16) Crawl out from under car with dripping oil filter splashing oil everywhere from holes. Cleverly hide old oil filter among trash in trash can to avoid environmental penalties. Drink a beer.
17) Install new oil filter making sure to apply a thin coat of oil to gasket surface.
18) Dump first quart of fresh oil into engine.
19) Remember drain plug from step 11.
20) Hurry to find drain plug in drain pan.
21) Drink beer.
22) Discover that first quart of fresh oil is now on the floor. Throw kitty litter on oil spill.
23) Get drain plug back in with only a minor spill. Drink beer.
24) Crawl under car getting kitty litter into eyes. Wipe eyes with oily rag used to clean drain plug. Slip with stupid crescent wrench tightening drain plug and bang knuckles on frame removing any excess skin between knuckles and frame.
25) Begin cussing fit.
26) Throw stupid crescent wrench.
27) Cuss for additional 5 minutes because wrench hit bowling trophy.
28) Beer.
29) Clean up hands and bandage as required to stop blood flow.
30) Beer.
31) Dump in five fresh quarts of oil.
32) Beer.
33) Lower car from jack stands.
34) Move car back to apply more kitty litter to fresh oil spilled during any missed steps.
35) Beer.
36) Test drive car.
37) Get pulled over: arrested for driving under the influence.
38) Car gets impounded.
39) Call loving wife, make bail.
40) 12 hours later, get car from impound yard.

Money spent:
Parts: $50.00
DUI: $2500.00
Impound fee: $75.00
Bail: $1500.00
Beer: $20.00
Total: $4,145.00.... But you know the job was done right!
 
ENIAC said:
Money spent:
Parts: $50.00
DUI: $2500.00
Impound fee: $75.00
Bail: $1500.00
Beer: $20.00
Total: $4,145.00.... But you know the job was done right!

I think your cost is too low, at least in SF Bay Area. The impound fee is higher, and didn't you forget the towing charge? At one time, I did do my own oil changes, but skipped the beer. I have since wised up and take the car to a garage. Now if and when I get the LEAF, oil changes will be in my distant memory. However, if things get delayed much longer, I may forget I ordered a LEAF. Reading MNL reminds me that there are LEAF fans out there with a bit of humor.
 
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