Leaf Price / Discount discussion thread

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OK, I was tough with a new member. I just think that Leafs are selling with so many discounts and incentives, that the cars are VERY affordable even at sticker price.

In my experience this year, with many visits with many dealerships on several cars, the dealers want to make money on every car. You, as an individual are not important, because they know that "someone else" will buy the car at their price. You can read all the "fantasy land" strategies on the internet you want, but dealers will not go much past their "Invoice" price because your money is no better than another's. I haggled over a couple of hundred dollars with several dealers this year, and they let me walk out (and sold it to someone else). I stuck to my guns, and learned. They hold the cards because, let's face it, you want the car more than they want to lose a couple of hundred dollars.

For me, when I buy a car, I want the dealer to show me some courtesy in discounting the car to at or below the invoice. My most important expectation is that I can see the car at the dealership, in the color that I want, with only the options that I want, and that they don't add any additional charges. That alone is worth not needing to haggle over the last couple of hundred dollars.....
 
BuffaloBillsfan said:
I'm going to be using something called the "vehicle advantage program" and someone will do all of that dealership search/haggling so I don't have to. As far as the credit score goes, i read that the 0% is for qualifying tier 1 and 2 credit, and my score is 6 points shy of that (I believe tier 2 starts at 660) which will get slightly better next month. I've read that dealerships have the power to bump you up to the next best tier if they choose to.

That "program" sounds like the Costco or Credit Union programs, where the dealers pay these people for referring you, and you get a discount.. You could probably get a better deal if you go yourself. Then they don't have to pay $3-400 to the "program" for bringing you to the dealership's door.
 
powersurge said:
That "program" sounds like the Costco or Credit Union programs, where the dealers pay these people for referring you, and you get a discount.. You could probably get a better deal if you go yourself.

Having done both, yes and no. I went through Costco some years back as I needed to replace a car fairly quickly. You might not get a better deal on your own if you are in a hurry. You can get a much better deal if you can wait.
 
So Powersurge didn't give me a reach around when I got here, no big deal. I respect the post because it's candid and I didn't take it as an attack, but from a dude that doesn't sugar-coat his opinion regardless of how bad the medicine tastes.

The current car I own, has been repaired every month for one reason or another, and I'm taking it again to the garage today to see how much the repair will cost. If it is over $400 I strongly just want to trade it in instead of trying to sell it, because I don't want to drive it if it's a ticking time bomb, and I'm very impatient and impulsive. Try doing the right thing financially when that's baked into your personality!!

What are the odds I won't be able to get the color I want because I waited until october? I also have inventory anxiety too.

update: the Balljoint is bad and the boot is ripped if anyone knows what that means ....

anyways ,after that I went to the dealership to get a price on my trade-in. I told the guy that I wasn't haggling a car or buying one today and that I'm using a program that has a guy haggle for me. At that point he wouldn't give me a price on my car because he said I wasn't the one buying the car. He did KBB it and NDRA it or whatever the other one was, and the lowball price he gave was $3700 , a high of $4800ish. He said I was going about it wrong and to get the price my guy gets, after he does his schtick on whoever, and then come back and see if he can beat it or not.He also said that whatever accessories the car has on the sticker is not negotiable which I think is B.S. . I don't think I'm getting my grey metallic color I want, might have to settle for white. Whenever I buy a car I always feel like I got screwed over somehow no matter what.
 
update: the Balljoint is bad and the boot is ripped if anyone knows what that means ....

You need a new ball joint (they hold the wheels in place in front while letting them turn to steer) and the ripped boot is likely on a CV joint, which allows a wheel to be driven by the motor but still turn and move up and down over bumps. That isn't urgent if it's all that's wrong, although the CV joint will fail faster in poor weather with a ripped boot. One new ball joint is maybe a $200 repair.
 
Now that we know the 60KwH Leaf is at least a few months out, does anyone on the board have suggestions or thoughts on how to negotiate a deal on a 2018 SL? So far I've found dealers pretty unwilling to discount more than $3-4K off MSRP and I hoped that the bigger battery would cause a dramatic slowdown in 2018 sales right at the end of the year. Now I'm not sure whether to wait for the actual announcement or just pull the trigger in a few months and hope there are deeper end-of-year discounts.
 
BuffaloBillsfan said:
What are the odds I won't be able to get the color I want

If I was cash strapped, car color would be a priority far below TCO and reliability.

--
As for repairs on your current car, I'm under the impression that replacement of both sides is recommended so that the un-repaired side does not age quickly. I *think* that CV boot and ball joint require the same disassembly so you may be able to wrangle a repair cost quite a bit cheaper than the cost of each one alone in total implies.
 
I'm not dead set on a color. I prefer grey but as long as it's not red I'll be ok and there are a lot of white SLs in my area. I'm not repairing the car. Most likely it will be traded in. After I get the Leaf I'll update with the details.
 
davehical said:
Now that we know the 60KwH Leaf is at least a few months out, does anyone on the board have suggestions or thoughts on how to negotiate a deal on a 2018 SL? So far I've found dealers pretty unwilling to discount more than $3-4K off MSRP and I hoped that the bigger battery would cause a dramatic slowdown in 2018 sales right at the end of the year. Now I'm not sure whether to wait for the actual announcement or just pull the trigger in a few months and hope there are deeper end-of-year discounts.

I'm in the same situation and agree that dealers may be more flexible on the 40 kWh 2019 Leaf, and Nissan may offer more incentives, when the 60 kWh version is about to become available.. My 2013 Leaf is giving me no trouble, and I can wait a few months.
 
davehical said:
Now that we know the 60KwH Leaf is at least a few months out, does anyone on the board have suggestions or thoughts on how to negotiate a deal on a 2018 SL? So far I've found dealers pretty unwilling to discount more than $3-4K off MSRP and I hoped that the bigger battery would cause a dramatic slowdown in 2018 sales right at the end of the year. Now I'm not sure whether to wait for the actual announcement or just pull the trigger in a few months and hope there are deeper end-of-year discounts.

Nissan is actually offering great incentives, at least in the Delaware/Mid Atlantic area. I just finalized a deal on mine and picking it up on Saturday! Even without my work discount, they were offering almost $7k in discounts. I guess the deals vary greatly by region?

SL with SL tech, carpet mats, splash guards (Black/Black)

MSRP $38,125
VPP price $35,468 (through my work as a corporate partner)
additional Faulkner discount - $487
MY 18 Leaf rebate -$1,000
NMAC captive cash - $2,000
Bonus cash - $2,500
Dealer cash - $1,000
(total rebates $6,500)
Your sale price is $28,481 plus tax and tags
 
BuffaloBillsfan said:
I need advice. (New to the forum btw) I've read the last few pages of this thread but haven't found what I'm looking for.
Where I live they are offering 0% for 72 months , $2500 off for one reason and also $2000 off for whatever other reason. My experian auto 8 score is currently 654, 6 points shy of teir 2 I think. I am planning to trade my car in if it doesn't sell by then, on the 27th and use a vehicle advantage program where someone haggles for you because who enjoys doing that? The guy on the phone told me he could match that price or beat it , how I have no idea. I also can get $1000 below the invoice price through where I work too. I want to buy a 2018 SL grey metallic with the only package they offer with that trim.

Do I stay with this idea of going in on the 27th, or wait until oct in the hopes that the price goes lower?

I was actually in the exact same situation as you including the work discount! I ended up pulling the trigger because the package (SL tech)/color I wanted (grey) was no where to be found within 150 miles and there was only one of my 2nd choice (black) and it was 80 miles away. I just couldn't wait any longer and ended up having the dealer offer $7k off on top of my work discount so it was too good to pass up or risk going to my 3rd or 4th choice color. So I think you should only wait if you're pretty indifferent about color. There are still quite a few white and silvers around by me.
 
I am planning on getting a 2018 SL today in MD. Verbally agreed at $30k out the door. Is that a good price or should I negotiate more? Please advice. I am betting on the last day of the month logic.
 
Kleaf said:
I am planning on getting a 2018 SL today in MD. Verbally agreed at $30k out the door. Is that a good price or should I negotiate more? Please advice. I am betting on the last day of the month logic.

That sounds pretty good if you will also be getting the federal rebate & any state incentives if applicable.
 
Thanks a lot. I am new to the EV market and just needed some confirmation from this awesome community before I make the plunge.
 
Thanks guys for all the pointers. Drove it home for $29600 :) Propilot is awesome. Coming from a Civic, the cabin is so much quieter!
 
Kleaf said:
Thanks guys for all the pointers. Drove it home for $29600 :) Propilot is awesome. Coming from a Civic, the cabin is so much quieter!

Congrats! And depending on how much you drive, you might find yourself having paid less overall than a civic!
 
Kleaf - Care to share which dealer? I’m interested, because when we leased our 2016 SL at the beginning of 2017, when a lot of local MD dealers still had a lot of stock, most dealers wouldn’t even offer a discount or pulled the come in for pricing line. I’ve used Antwerpen for both Leaf leases I have purchased btw.
 
Edit: Nevermind, I bought the car yesterday, taxes, title, registration came about $740.
Hi all,
I am planning on getting a 2018 S with charge package in OR and dealer agreed for $25.5K + taxes, title, registration etc fees. Is this a good price? Does anyone in OR know what's typical cost for taxes, title, registration fees? TIA.
 
spintran said:
Does anyone in OR know what's typical cost for taxes, title, registration fees? TIA.
OR title fee is $93. Registration fee for a new vehicle in Multnomah County is $324 ($248 outside of the metro area). And this is Oregon so no sales tax. :D
 
Dooglas said:
spintran said:
Does anyone in OR know what's typical cost for taxes, title, registration fees? TIA.
OR title fee is $93. Registration fee for a new vehicle in Multnomah County is $324 ($248 outside of the metro area). And this is Oregon so no sales tax. :D
Actually now there is OR privilege tax of 0.5% starting 2018
 
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