Zencar 32a adjustable portable L2/L1 EVSE

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I just got my Zencar 32A adjustable portable L2/L1 EVSE!

But I don't have my Leaf to test it out on since I just traded the Leaf for a Chevy Sonic to go to Denver this upcoming week...

Maybe the week after I'll be able to check it out.
 
Nice, note the current adjustment is a bit hokey but does work and allows for no external buttons. Within the first minute of plugging the EVSE in the wall, violently shake the unit, each shake will increment to the next highest setting. When you get to the highest the next shake will start at the lowest setting. After 1 minute or once you plug the J1772 into the car, the setting is locked in unless you start the adjustment routine again, IOW the current setting sticks after unplugging.
For anyone not interested in ordering direct from China, Amazon now has several sellers selling the Zencar, but of course, then you couldn't choose your current or things like cord lengths or plug styles:
https://www.amazon.com/portable-adjustable-charging-level-14-50/dp/B074KXHTFF/ref=sr_1_3?ie=UTF8&qid=1503148276&sr=8-3&keywords=zencar+level+2
 
I got mine with 12, 16, 24 and 32 amps so as to correspond to 80% of 15, 20, 30 and 40 amp circuits.

I plan on making several adapters with twist-lock connections so that I can charge from just about anything. It came with a 14-50 plug that I'm planning on modifying the neutral pin so as to be able to plug into a 14-50 or 14-30 socket. I'd like to make a two 120V legs to one 240V circuit set of cords too.
 
IssacZachary said:
I got mine with 12, 16, 24 and 32 amps so as to correspond to 80% of 15, 20, 30 and 40 amp circuits.

I'd like to make a two 120V legs to one 240V circuit set of cords too.
You could also purchase something like this:
https://www.amazon.com/Conntek-50-Amp-Optimizer-250-Volt-Connector/dp/B007H5WUGI/ref=pd_sbs_263_1?_encoding=UTF8&psc=1&refRID=M8FEFR4ARR1M2BZTBHC6
Which along with this, would do what you want:
https://www.amazon.com/Parkworld-692514-Adapter-general-TT-30R/dp/B01LY50BFD/ref=sr_1_6?ie=UTF8&qid=1503231920&sr=8-6&keywords=tt-30+Y-adapter

Amazon also sells this similar adapter:
https://www.amazon.com/Camco-55025-PowerGrip-Maximizer-Adapter/dp/B0024E70L2/ref=pd_sbs_263_4?_encoding=UTF8&psc=1&refRID=M8FEFR4ARR1M2BZTBHC6

I just made mine with these parts and a 1' piece of 12-3 wire:
https://www.amazon.com/Camco-55353-Female-Replacement-Receptacle/dp/B00192QB9M/ref=sr_1_5?ie=UTF8&qid=1503232075&sr=8-5&keywords=14-50r
https://www.amazon.com/Leviton-515PR-Straight-Blade-Rubber/dp/B000FKBZ7M/ref=pd_sim_60_5?_encoding=UTF8&psc=1&refRID=M5BTBHTHAY6PF67DS6HK

I have at least a dozen different adapters to go from most L6 and L14 plugs plus others. I just charged yesterday on the fly from a friends L14-20 outlet by combining 3 different outlet adapters, worked great. At first I was charging at 19a but after checking things after ~20 minutes things seemed a bit warm. I then dialed my Zencar down to 13a and everything cooled down after a bit. In this case it would have been handy to have your 16a setting, which would have probably worked just fine. The way it was I ended up charging for almost 4hrs and my Leaf was 100% charged by the time I left anyway. At only 120v it would have been lucky to get to 70 or maybe 80% which would have been a bit close making it home.
My old Juicebox is the nicest as I can adjust the current in 1a increments from 6a all the way to 40a, unfortunately, it's so bulky and heavy I really prefer to use my Zencar on the road and my Juicebox in the garage.
 
I was looking for this Amazon listing on my last post, but couldn't find it anywhere :?
Anyway, here it is, IMO a bit overpriced at $499 and as best I can tell it doesn't have adjustable amperage(although I can't believe it wouldn't) but who knows. Note all the reviews and questions are currently referring to the sellers 16a L2 EVSE, which shares the listing :roll: so pay close attention to that.
https://www.amazon.com/Zencar-Level-Electric-Vehicle-Charger/dp/B0741BPPLT/ref=cm_cr_arp_d_product_top?ie=UTF8
 
Are you guys buying this Zencar product right from zencar? If so how long did shipping take and what was the cost?
 
I just ordered one for my Leaf. I started with an online submission and the sales person Dream replied. I selected 5 different current levels, specified a 7.6m cable with a J1772 and 14-50. They asked for $273 + $40 Freight + $13 PayPal fees. I think I got 8A, 12A, 16A, 24A and 32A.
 
If you aren't getting the expected kw charging rate, then check the plug wiring. Someone posted awhile ago about that and it turned out the Zencar was only charging station 120V due to incorrect wiring.
 
seamonkeys1 said:
Are you guys buying this Zencar product right from zencar? ...

I see seller "cruztopia" is selling what appears to be this charger on ebay; $349 + $15.48 std shipping
http://www.ebay.com/itm/Zencar-32A-EV-Charger-Portable-240V-Level-2-EVSE-with-NEMA-14-50-plug-/322700931068

In case it would be attractive to not have to deal with the manufacturer directly.
 
Personally, I would NOT order that EVSE off Ebay. Reason being is the ridiculous amperage settings. Per the seller:
Amperage Options: 15A, 20A, 30A, 32A (max)
15a is too much for a 15a circuit and not the max(16a) you could get on a 20a circuit. 20a is too much for a 20a circuit and quite a bit less than the max 24a you could get from a 30a circuit. 30a is too much for a 30a circuit, I guess the 32a max is fine for a 40a circuit, but is of little use to a Leaf owner. This EVSE while 120v could NOT be used on a standard and common 120v 15a outlet, you'd need to find a 20a circuit.

IMO the best amperage options would be:
13(or 12a) for the max charge on a 15a circuit.
16a for max charge on a 20a outlet.
24a for max charge on a 30a outlet.
30 or 32a for a 40a circuit and the max the supplied J1772 cable will bear.

Of course ordering directly from the mfg(Zencar) you can chose any of 4 amperage settings, your choice :)
 
jjeff said:
...Reason being is the ridiculous amperage settings.
agreed.

By the way, the manufacturer's product page http://www.e-zencar.net/product/evse-32a/ , and a couple of (other) ebay sellers speak of using a provided RFID to change amperage settings (either in lieu of, or in addition to shaking) -- what's up with that? Does anybody here have that feature?
e.g. this guy's listing says "USES RFID Tag to change amperage, unlike other units on eBay that are shake to change. This is the newest model..."
http://www.ebay.com/itm/Duosida-ZenCar-Electric-Car-Charger-EV-EVSE-Level-2-32-Amp-Adjustable-/122553970958
 
I was finally able to test out the Zencar unit this past weekend. I only used it to top off the car at 120V/12A, it worked just fine. I ordered it with a 14-50 plug, but built a 14-50->TT-30 dongle and a TT-30->5-15 dongle, which will hopefully cover me for most cases. I plan to keep this charger in the car as the emergency charger while keeping the OEM Nissan unit in the garage as I only have a 120V 15A outlet available.

The unit I received did come with two RFID tags, but I honestly didn't even try them, I plugged it in, shaked it a few times to verify it had the current settings I specified then left it at 12A. Next time I get a chance, I'll test out the RFID tags.

Overall, in the single time I've used it in the week that I've owned it, it seems to be well built and sturdy. The J1772 was a little bit tight to insert, but not tight enough to complain about. The screen is a nice read-out verifying the wall outlet voltage it detects and the amount of current passing through.
 
EdwardC said:
The unit I received did come with two RFID tags, but I honestly didn't even try them, I plugged it in, shaked it a few times to verify it had the current settings I specified then left it at 12A. Next time I get a chance, I'll test out the RFID tags.
RFID tags :?
Mine didn't come with any tags......what are they for?
 
Looks like they updated the sales copy on their website:

http://www.e-zencar.net/product/evse-32a/

The RFID is an alternative method for setting the current rate.
 
Interesting, I can't say I really care for my "shake to change" current arrangement but then I'm not sure how I'd like to have to keep track of a card to adjust either....
Interesting to see they now have automatic plug temp monitoring that will either reduce or cut charging current, depending on the plug temp(currently only available on the euro 2 round pin plugs) which is something at least the older Leaf EVSE plug had.
Lots of standard current settings(6A 8A 10A 13A 16A 20A 32A) I wonder if they no longer allow you to custome specify the current settings......personally I'd probably be OK with their standard settings, mostly probably using 13a(for a 15a circuit) 16a(for a 20a circuit) 20a(for short term faster charging on a known good 20a circuit) and 30a for a 40+a circuit or short term use on a 30a circuit. It should really have a 24a setting though, for long term use on a 30a circuit. Probably never use the lower current settings(6a, 8a, 10a) well unless I was in no hurry or maybe using a thinner gauge extension cord.
 
IssacZachary said:
I plan on making several adapters with twist-lock connections so that I can charge from just about anything. It came with a 14-50 plug that I'm planning on modifying the neutral pin so as to be able to plug into a 14-50 or 14-30 socket. I'd like to make a two 120V legs to one 240V circuit set of cords too.

Be careful with the combining two 120V to 240V thing. I made a simple 120V combiner myself and discovered that when plugged into my EV, the car completes the circuit on the two 120V legs. That means that once you've finished charging and you go to unplug the first 120V plug, you'll find 120V on the exposed PLUG blades (that is coming from the other 120V plug you still have plugged in). This is highly, highly dangerous.

So I ditched that idea and instead built a box that has relays inside it that will only energize and output 240V when BOTH 120V plugs are plugged in. I also put in a 240V indicator light so that I know when I've found two out of phase 120V receptacles.

BTW, the other issue with 120V combiners is that they won't work at all, no matter how you build it, if your receptacles are GFCI protected (as are external and garage receptacles, typically).
 
I'm not disagreeing such a 120v to 240v adapter can be kind of dangerous, but what I do to reduce your scenario is ALWAYS unplug the EVSE first, then the individual 120v plugs. Doing this will eliminate the 120v on the plug scenario you mentioned.
I agree the relay method you suggested is much better and yes as you said, unfortunately such an adapter will not work on a GFI circuit, which is quite common in a modern garage or outside outlets.
Not sure what others do, but I didn't bother with hooking up the neutrals, only hots and grounds.
 
jjeff said:
I'm not disagreeing such a 120v to 240v adapter can be kind of dangerous, but what I do to reduce your scenario is ALWAYS unplug the EVSE first, then the individual 120v plugs. Doing this will eliminate the 120v on the plug scenario you mentioned.
I agree the relay method you suggested is much better and yes as you said, unfortunately such an adapter will not work on a GFI circuit, which is quite common in a modern garage or outside outlets.
Not sure what others do, but I didn't bother with hooking up the neutrals, only hots and grounds.

Yeah, that'll work until someone other than yourself trips on one of the cords, unplugs it from the wall socket, and goes to pick it up...

No need to cross connect neutrals (they can be ignored). Heck, even cross connecting grounds isn't a great idea as there could be a slight potential difference between the grounds causing a low level current to flow. I think when I built my 120 to 240 box (with relays!), I only used one ground.
 
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