OpenEVSE - Open Source Charging Station

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gridstop said:
I know the Open EVSE supports changing charging current via the serial interface (and by the UI), but can this be done in the middle of charging? Or does it have to stop and re-start?

And will the leaf respond on the fly and lower/raise current? I've been thinking about whether Open EVSE could be used to make a dual charger for a single 40A line and negotiate current between the two of them. Or possibly sharing a single 40A line with a garage heater (so when the heater is on, lower current to 14A or something).

An arduino can be programmed to send RAPI commands to the OpenEVSE (OE) based on measured currents with a Hall effect or clamp ammeter on the system that you want to control. The Leaf's system will definitely allow on the fly changes of the amp settings of the OE. I measure both voltages and amps of my solar system, then set the OE's amperes based on the calculated solar production (by the arduino).
 
Hi. Does anyone know if this project is shutdown?
I'm trying to get in contact with someone...anyone over a placed, but I've been unable to reach someone. I gather OpenEVSE is run by a single person?
 
OpenEVSE is basically one hardware person and lincomatic and several others for the firmware.

Chris Howell's store is still open. The list has been slow though.

https://store.openevse.com/
 
GlennD said:
OpenEVSE is basically one hardware person and lincomatic and several others for the firmware.
Chris Howell's store is still open. The list has been slow though.

Thanks. Ordered a kit on late Wednesday, but still hadn't heard anything. After no replies and no one answering the phone, I was starting to conclude I sent money to a dead company/web site. He's now replied; not shipping until Monday...
 
It is likely that Chris is on vacation. I understand it is really a one man shop. He has converted his house into a shop. He provides good support but he is only one person.
 
surfingslovak said:
Below are the quotes I received from Dostar earlier this year. In my experience, these quotes are usually net of shipping. Unless you are ordering a larger batch, which could be anything between 10 to 30 pieces, they will want to send it via air. Dostar quoted me 4.5 kg worth of air freight via UPS at $113. Any customs charges would be on top of that.

I believe that the only economical way to get this done is to place a group order and use ground shipping. I provided Kevin Sharpe with several vendor leads, but based on his earlier comment, I imagine that it turned out to be even more expensive, if not plain impossible to get these plugs from a major vendor like Yazaki, REMA or ITT Cannon.


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The BMW ActiveE is the very first EV I ever drove. It was pretty impressive! The guy who let me drive it works for Boeing. ;)
 
I searched but couldn't find an answer....

Can someone tell me the current rating of the J1772 cord/plug for the Nissan-supplied, portable EVSE that came with a 2017 Leaf S ?
PN is 29690 3NF2E.

I'm building an OpenEVSE and want to know if I can cannibalize the cord and handle from the portable EVSE that came with the car. TIA.
 
The cable has gone from #12 conductors to #14 on the 2017 units. #14 is good f0r 16A

Ebay frequently has used 30A cables for under $100. I just purchased a 40A cable for $119 Shipped. I will make up a 40A unit.

You can always get a 30A cable new from Ross at TusonEV f0r $125 plus shipping. For a bit more you can get a very small cable from Quick Charge Power. I think a used cable is your best bet.
 
Thanks GlennD, that helps a lot.

Sounds like my best bet is to sell the original OEM EVSE and look for a used 40A cable. The only thing left then is to decide whether to run a 50A or 40A circuit. I think I have a spare 50A breaker already so I guess that's an easy choice.

Another question, if you don't mind.....

I read somewhere that the NEC limits the length of the cable from the receptacle to the EVSE box to 18". Is that right? I have a used 14-50 plug/cable that is about 3' long that I'd like to use. Worst case I can cut it down and re-crimp the terminals but I'd rather not unless that is required.
 
^Never mind....

I think I found the answer and it appears that up to 6' is acceptable.

2014 Code Language:

625.44 Electric Vehicle Supply Equipment Connection. Electric vehicle supply equipment shall be permitted to be cord- and plug-connected to the premises wiring system in accordance with one of the following:

(A) Connections to 125-Volt, Single-Phase, 15- and 20-Ampere Receptacle Outlets. Electric vehicle supply equipment intended for connection to nonlocking, 2-pole, 3-wire grounding-type receptacle outlets rated at 125 V, single phase, 15 and 20 amperes or from a supply of less than 50 volts dc.

(B) Connections to Other Receptacle Outlets. Electric vehicle supply equipment that is rated 250 V maximum and complying with all of the following:

(1) It is intended for connection to nonlocking, 2-pole, 3-wire and 3-pole, 4-wire, grounding-type receptacle outlets rated not more than 50 amperes.

(2) EVSE is fastened in place to facilitate any of the following:

Ready removal for interchange
Facilitation of maintenance and repair
Repositioning of portable, movable, or EVSE fastened in place

(3) Power-supply cord length for electric vehicle supply equipment fastened in place is limited to 1.8 m (6 ft).

(4) Receptacles are located to avoid physical damage to the flexible cord.

All other electric vehicle supply equipment shall be permanently wired and fastened in place to the supporting surface, a wall, a pole, or other structure. The electric vehicle supply equipment shall have no exposed live parts.

http://www.electricallicenserenewal.com/Electrical-Continuing-Education-Courses/NEC-Content.php?sectionID=166.0

edit:

It looks like that is the 2014 code and the 2017 code is different. I guess I'll check with my local inspector when he comes out to inspect the new breaker box I need to put in first.

625.17 Cords and Cables.(9)(A) Power Supply Cord.The cable for cord-connected equipment shall comply with all of the following:(1) Be any of the types specified in (B)(1) or Hard Service Cord, Junior Hard Service Cord and Portable Power Cabletypes in accordance with Table 400.4. Hard Service Cord, Junior Hard Service Cord and Portable Power Cabletypes shall be listed, as applicable, for exposure to oil and damp and wet locations.Exception:A power supply cord that is listed as a part of the electric vehicle supply equipment orelectric vehicle charging system. (2) Have an ampacity as specified in Table 400.5(A)(1) or, for 8 AWG and larger, in the 60 C columns of Table 400.5(A)(2).(3) Have an overall length as specified in (a) or (b):(a) When the interrupting device of the personnel protection system specified in 625.22 is located within the enclosure of the supply equipment or charging system, the power supply cord shall be no more than 300 mm (12 in.) long,(b) When the interrupting device of the personnel protection system specified in 625.22 is located at the attachment plug, or within the first 300 mm (12 in.) of the power supply cord, the overall cord length shall be a minimum of 1.8 m (6 ft) and shall be no greater than 4.6 m (15 ft).

http://mydocs.epri.com/docs/publicmeetingmaterials/1112/PDNNSH5Q3Z2/Day%201%20PlugIn%20Electric%20Vehicle%20Codes%20Standards/D1_7C%20G%20Kissel%20Article%20625%20Restructure%20Proposal.pdf
 
goldbrick said:
I searched but couldn't find an answer....

Can someone tell me the current rating of the J1772 cord/plug for the Nissan-supplied, portable EVSE that came with a 2017 Leaf S ?
PN is 29690 3NF2E.

I'm building an OpenEVSE and want to know if I can cannibalize the cord and handle from the portable EVSE that came with the car. TIA.

I would note that the dealer price for the Nissan EVSE is probably several hundred dollars. If you sell it on eBay you won't get that much, but I'm sure you'd get enough to pay for a decent 40a J1772 cable and plug set, maybe more. Also be aware that in a leasing situation, you're expected to return the supplied EVSE.
 
Right. I was hoping to find someone who needed it to return with their leased car. I've looked at little at ebay and they seem to go for $150-$200. I'm in no hurry but don't want to toss it out either.
 
I only got $140 for the Lear EVSE out of my totaled B. Mercedes wanted $1000 for it. Lear has a very bad reputation from the VOLT EVSE's
Leaf EVSE's seem to go with the bag for less than $200 on eBay.
 
After further research, it appears that according the 2017 NEC, a plug-in EVSE can use a max of 12" of cable between the plug and the unit and also requires a GFCI breaker to be used (at least for 240V/50A) inside the breaker box. This is in addition to any GFCI capability inside the EVSE unit itself.

The breakers are about $100 and I don't want to mess with trying to re-crimp the cable I have or buying a new one so I'm planning to hard-wire my OpenEVSE box. This should eliminate the cord length issue and I can use a non-GFCI breaker in the box.

I'd guess this has been covered here before but I thought I'd mention it again for anyone planning to go the OpenEVSE route.
 
For me, I'd never sell it and keep it in the trunk. It allows you to charge almost anywhere there is 120 VAC available in an emergency. Note that I've had to use it with an extension cord at the front of my house after total shutdown of my Leaf about 100 yards from my house. No way I could push it up the driveway to my OpenEVSE 240 VAC controller. I just had to know how far I could "push" the Leaf (literally as it turned out). :mrgreen:

A second time was going to my Son's house without the proper connector (miscommunication) and spending the night charging to get back! Just saying.....

Might find a used/new cable on ebay and buy the connectors needed - probably much cheaper if you feel comfortable with a little "assembly".
 
By the way, GFCI breakers trip at 5MA. The J1772 spec is 20MA so they are not comparable. Most of the time you can get away with it. I know OpenEVSE changed the sense resistors to 47K instead of the MFG recommended 22K to be under 5MA.
 
I have a Ronni and I love it. My gas line was 1 1/4 already so I lucked out. A Long Beach Gas employee said that I needed to upgrade the meter but I do not use the heater while taking a shower. Everything works well. The nice thing about being a City employee is that the advice is free..
 
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