ostamb
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Re: Cheap L2 EVSE by converting the 2013-14 Nissan L1 EVSE - $25

Wed Nov 25, 2015 3:13 pm

After reading this post, the original instructables tutorial, and all the comments, I'm still unsure if one can use a 3 pronged 240v wall plug (such as a NEMA 6-30 which is what I have) for this mod, or if it has to be a 4 pronged wall plug (such as the L14-30 that you refer to) which I understand separates out the ground and neutral. I'm guessing that if I take a look, there are 4 wires going to into the box where my NEMA 6-30 is, in which case it should be easy to rewire an L14-30 into it, but I figured I'd make a post about it in case anyone else out there has the same question! Thanks in advance! :roll:

wmcbrine
Posts: 93
Joined: Sun Aug 09, 2015 3:23 am

Re: Cheap L2 EVSE by converting the 2013-14 Nissan L1 EVSE - $25

Wed Nov 25, 2015 7:23 pm

ostamb wrote:After reading this post, the original instructables tutorial, and all the comments, I'm still unsure if one can use a 3 pronged 240v wall plug (such as a NEMA 6-30 which is what I have) for this mod, or if it has to be a 4 pronged wall plug (such as the L14-30 that you refer to) which I understand separates out the ground and neutral.

I don't know about this mod, but I know of exactly zero EVSEs that actually require the neutral. So that's suggestive.

TimLee
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Re: Cheap L2 EVSE by converting the 2013-14 Nissan L1 EVSE - $25

Wed Nov 25, 2015 7:47 pm

ostamb wrote:... I'm still unsure if one can use a 3 pronged 240v wall plug (such as a NEMA 6-30 which is what I have) for this mod, or if it has to be a 4 pronged wall plug (such as the L14-30 that you refer to) which I understand separates out the ground and neutral. I'm guessing that if I take a look, there are 4 wires going to into the box where my NEMA 6-30 is, in which case it should be easy to rewire an L14-30 into it, ... :roll:

It is unlikely that your 6-30 has an unused neutral conductor in the box.
Yes that is what they should have done.
Minimal cost, future flexibility.
But that is NOT what electricians do.

But not sure you need a neutral.

If you do not know, you probably should not be doing this modification which requires skill and knowledge.

I have not done this modification.

It may work.
But I did not have 100% certainty.
It is a modification that requires expertise and knowledge.

If you do not have both do not do it. :shock:
Last edited by TimLee on Thu Nov 26, 2015 11:08 am, edited 1 time in total.

Tim Lee
Chattanooga, TN

Man. Date: 03/10/11, VIN # 2026
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wwhitney
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Re: Cheap L2 EVSE by converting the 2013-14 Nissan L1 EVSE - $25

Wed Nov 25, 2015 10:22 pm

I'm not sure which mod this one is, but the only safe cheap mod for the L1 EVSE creates a "charge cord" that does require a neutral. That mod uses the neutral for the 120V control circuitry, so those components are still operating within the original voltage specs. Only the relay is fed with 240V to increase the voltage supplied to the car.

Cheers, Wayne

maini
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Re: Cheap L2 EVSE by converting the 2013-14 Nissan L1 EVSE - $25

Wed Jan 13, 2016 4:06 pm

Still going strong.. about 15K miles and using this for over 18 months now. Thanks to the Intractable person who did this first.... All well here.

To respond to the above questions.. the Neutal is NEEDED as it is used to operate all the original circuitry at 120V - N
The current fed to the car needs 120V L1 and 120V L2 hence 240. YES no neutral is fed to the car for charging through this particular Mod. It is used only to Operate the EVSE itself.

Thanks
2014 SV Cayenne Red with LED and QC port

MikeD
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Re: Cheap L2 EVSE by converting the 2013-14 Nissan L1 EVSE - $25

Sun Jan 17, 2016 1:58 am

maini: From a higher safety standpoint, would you have used a non-locking plug/receptacle (like NEMA 14-15 or 14-20) if they had been commonly available? My safety concern is that a locking plug/receptacle could rip apart if enough of a pulling force is accidently applied, whereas otherwise equivalent straight pronged plug/receptacles would more likely just become unplugged. In particular doesn't using locking plug/receptacles make the most amount of sense when there is vibration present at the receptacle (such as on a generator)?

maini
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Re: Cheap L2 EVSE by converting the 2013-14 Nissan L1 EVSE - $25

Wed Jan 20, 2016 4:03 pm

Sure.. a non locking receptacle would do fine... I just found this to be the cheapest plug socket combo on eBay and used it..
2014 SV Cayenne Red with LED and QC port

imolazhp
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Re: Cheap L2 EVSE by converting the 2013-14 Nissan L1 EVSE - $25

Sat Jan 30, 2016 7:14 pm

Ok, I'm back, finally getting started on this. The more I look for parts around work the more upset I am at myself for not doing this before now, haha. I possibly have nearly everything I need, for free, from work. I do have some questions...

1) I found a really nice 10AWG/4 wire at work, waterproof, somewhere between 6 and 7 feet in length, would 10AWG be more difficult to work with over the smaller 12AWG? Unlike the indestrutibles, and more like OP's, I plan to remove the original cord all together. I don't have a problem with going and buying some 12/4 I just would like to use this 10/4 that I found at work for free if possible. If it will be more difficult to work with, no biggie, I'll run and pick some up.

2) Why Nema L14-30? Just because it is what you needed to work with your existing clothes dryer? I have found a Nema L14-30 at work, but I think my clothes dryer is different. I didn't initially plan to use my clothes dryer outlet at home, but I don't see why I should not give myself that ability. The distance between it and the charge port on my car is less than 10'. Even though there is a door between the two, I don't see why I shouldn't allow myself that capability if I need it in a pinch. I would just leave the door open and close the laundry room door. I originally intended to use this only at work, in our shop there is an instant electric hot water heater close to where I park in the shop. Just unplug the hot water heater, plug in the EVSE. It is a Nema 10-50 plug, so now my plan is to wire the EVSE to work with my clothes dryer plug at home when I'm in a pinch and need a faster charge (I will have two EVSE's, a 110v and this 220v).

3) Tied to question number 2, I need to make an adapter, from whatever my clothes dryer is to the Nema 10-50 plug. I'm confused though, it doesn't look like the Nema 10-50 uses a ground, just neutral and the two hot's. Is that even going to work? When I wire it up, do I even wire the ground at all to the female (whatever my clothes dryer is) side?

If my clothes dryer is not a Nema 14-50 (I think it might be), then I would also want to make an adapter for use at campgrounds. My 110v EVSE at home is somewhat permanent, so it would be nice to be able to adapt the converted Leaf EVSE back to 110v for charging at our "weekend" house as well. So essentially I need to make two adapters, possibly 3, from whatever my dryer plug is to Nema 10-50, another to Nema 14-50 and then from whatever my dryer is to 110v.

4) When making adapters, is there a specific minimum length that should be used?

Thanks for the help! I've been getting by with L1 since purchase in late April, early May, nearly 6500 miles. With the winter temps cutting into range, it is becoming more and more difficult to "top off" the car during an 8 hour shift at work. Upgrading to L2 should take care of that, even if its a slower L2.

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davewill
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Re: Cheap L2 EVSE by converting the 2013-14 Nissan L1 EVSE - $25

Sun Jan 31, 2016 8:09 pm

This mod is a "cheapskate" conversion, and doesn't change the electronics over to run off 240v. It requires a 4-wire outlet with a separate neutral and ground so the electronics can run off of 120v while the car uses 240v. That means you can't run it off a 10-30 or 10-50 which only have 3 wires (2 hots and a neutral). You need a 14-30 or 14-50, or the specified L14-30. Making an adapter to run it off of 120v should be pretty easy, though.
2014 Rav4 EV, Blizzard Pearl White
2011 LEAF SL w/QC, Blue Ocean, returned at end of lease

maini
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Re: Cheap L2 EVSE by converting the 2013-14 Nissan L1 EVSE - $25

Sun Jan 31, 2016 9:14 pm

imolazhp wrote:Ok, I'm back, finally getting started on this. The more I look for parts around work the more upset I am at myself for not doing this before now, haha. I possibly have nearly everything I need, for free, from work. I do have some questions...

1) I found a really nice 10AWG/4 wire at work, waterproof, somewhere between 6 and 7 feet in length, would 10AWG be more difficult to work with over the smaller 12AWG? Unlike the indestrutibles, and more like OP's, I plan to remove the original cord all together. I don't have a problem with going and buying some 12/4 I just would like to use this 10/4 that I found at work for free if possible. If it will be more difficult to work with, no biggie, I'll run and pick some up.

2) Why Nema L14-30? Just because it is what you needed to work with your existing clothes dryer? I have found a Nema L14-30 at work, but I think my clothes dryer is different. I didn't initially plan to use my clothes dryer outlet at home, but I don't see why I should not give myself that ability. The distance between it and the charge port on my car is less than 10'. Even though there is a door between the two, I don't see why I shouldn't allow myself that capability if I need it in a pinch. I would just leave the door open and close the laundry room door. I originally intended to use this only at work, in our shop there is an instant electric hot water heater close to where I park in the shop. Just unplug the hot water heater, plug in the EVSE. It is a Nema 10-50 plug, so now my plan is to wire the EVSE to work with my clothes dryer plug at home when I'm in a pinch and need a faster charge (I will have two EVSE's, a 110v and this 220v).

3) Tied to question number 2, I need to make an adapter, from whatever my clothes dryer is to the Nema 10-50 plug. I'm confused though, it doesn't look like the Nema 10-50 uses a ground, just neutral and the two hot's. Is that even going to work? When I wire it up, do I even wire the ground at all to the female (whatever my clothes dryer is) side?

If my clothes dryer is not a Nema 14-50 (I think it might be), then I would also want to make an adapter for use at campgrounds. My 110v EVSE at home is somewhat permanent, so it would be nice to be able to adapt the converted Leaf EVSE back to 110v for charging at our "weekend" house as well. So essentially I need to make two adapters, possibly 3, from whatever my dryer plug is to Nema 10-50, another to Nema 14-50 and then from whatever my dryer is to 110v.

4) When making adapters, is there a specific minimum length that should be used?

Thanks for the help! I've been getting by with L1 since purchase in late April, early May, nearly 6500 miles. With the winter temps cutting into range, it is becoming more and more difficult to "top off" the car during an 8 hour shift at work. Upgrading to L2 should take care of that, even if its a slower L2.



1) Yup a AWG 10 will work great
2) Use anything which has 4 prongs.. it will be fine.. just make sure you match the socket and plug properly
3) You definitely need Neutral as the EVSE checks for Ground before beginning to charge the car. It does not need Neutral to charge but needs neutral to run the EVSE circuit (as pointed out by all the EVSE circuit runs on 120V hence the need of one hot and the neutral). So you need to make modifications in your wall sockets if possible.
4) Keep the length of adapters 1-2 feet max.

L2 will change your life and the overall efficiency of your charging goes up a lot more.. you do a lot of service to yourself and the environment by moving to L2 charging :)
2014 SV Cayenne Red with LED and QC port

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