goldbrick wrote:Totally agree but once again it would be good to know how the switch operates. If it is solid state it may actually ramp the current down gradually. If it's just mechanical contacts then I'd be more worried. But then any normal light switch uses mechanical contacts and they seem to last a long time with all kinds of various loads being switched on/off.
So let's look at a switch with different loads.https://www.homedepot.com/p/Intermatic- ... 954897-_-N
Resistive (heater): 20 Amp, 120-277 VAC
Tungsten (incandescent): 15 Amp, 120 VAC; 6 Amp, 208-277 VAC
Ballast (magnetic): 16 Amp, 120-277 VAC
Motor: 1HP, 120 VAC; 2 HP, 240 VAC
DC Loads: 4 Amp, 12 VDC; 2 Amp, 28 VDC
The charger in the car isn't similar to any of these.
Notice that the range of current that can be supported ranges from 20 Amps for a pure resistance to 2 Amps for 28 VDC. Strange and wonderful things can and do happen with loads that are not simple resistive.
Motor of 1 hp draws 745 watts (assuming 100% efficiency, and ignoring startup currents, inductance and capacitance), or 6.2 Amps. Efficiency is usually fairly high, 90% or so, so why can this switch only support ~7 Amps for a motor? Oh, all the things I just ignored. During startup the current is rather larger, perhaps even rather more than the 20 Amp steady state limit, but as the duration is likely short time is usually not a problem.
Have an ohm meter? Measure an incandescent bulb's cold resistance. Calculate the startup current. Sure, a huge current, over ten times the steady state current, and it just flows for a tiny time until the filament is hot. That is probably why the above switch is rated for a lower current, 15 Amps of incandescent load, than for 20 Amps of resistive load.
Will using a timer work? Probably. Still, isn't a good idea. Not recommended. Suggest getting an EVSE, perhaps an EVSE with a timer.