User avatar
LeafPowerIsIxE
Forum Supporter
Posts: 56
Joined: Sun Apr 03, 2011 9:46 am
Delivery Date: 28 Mar 2011
Leaf Number: 0590
Location: San Diego, CA

Re: Nissan Battery Replacement Program, Cost

Fri Sep 22, 2017 10:13 pm

@LeafPowerIsIxE: Thats a really awesome deal! Congratulations! Can you share the city and dealership name!


Mossy Nissan, Escondido - CA

wlegro
Posts: 34
Joined: Sat Feb 02, 2013 9:16 am
Delivery Date: 31 Jan 2013
Leaf Number: 022916
Location: L.A. CA > Eugene, OR

Re: Nissan Battery Replacement Program, Cost

Fri Nov 03, 2017 11:30 pm

I'm way late to this discussion, but I started at page 1 and read thru page 12 - and the result is a spinning head (that would be mine). If there's anything definitive about whether to get a new battery, it didn't sink in, but really I think it's because every situation is unique - by year, climate, use, maintenance, etc. My wife loves her 2012 SL, and we really can't afford a new one (though we'd think about it if Nissan ever matches what the Bolt and Model 3 can do). I'm no expert in figuring out this car - navigation confuses me, and my wife can't even find the driver's controls for windows and locks so she just reaches over to lower the passenger window. I think it's maybe because we're kinda old. But I do know we're down a bar in 5 years and 17,000 miles. The car spent all of its life in Los Angeles, always parked on the street in all kinds of weather (well really there's only two kinds of weather in LA, warm and hot - anything else is an anomaly). I've read all kinds of stuff about the effect of heat, even if the car isn't even being driven. Been using a 240v charger conversion for 4 years. Read all kinds of stuff about how/when to charge the battery - let it drop to 20 miles (we always looked at potential miles, not percentage charge), or charge it when you need to, or don't charge it when you still have half or more of the charge/miles left, or whatever. She would get range anxiety, mainly because she had to drive home late at night through The Street of L.A. with lights on and stop-and-go-and-stop-and-go block by block, a long gradual uphill until near the house when the climb became steep, and she did NOT want to run out of juice. So she'd get home with 40 miles or so remaining, and charge it up. She averaged 3.5kw/mile over all those years. About a year ago we noticed we'd lost a bar of charge, and instead of predicting a 90-100 mile range as when new, it was now 80 max and mostly mid-upper 70s. That seems like a greater proportionate loss of miles than it does of charge, which is confusing.

OK - a week ago we moved to Eugene Oregon (Subaru country). Still no garage but at least we've got a carport. It's been in the 40-60-degree range since we got here and it's only going to get colder (though the cold here can't compare to cold in the Midwest, for example). I don't know if 40-degree temps qualify as cold when it comes to battery power, but we do have to have the heat and defroster on a lot. It still shows one bar down, but suddenly the miles forecast is only 60 max. Well, Eugene is small, every place is close, it has timed lights on one-way streets - a traffic paradise. We're just concerned that we're going to lose more and miles per full charge, it worries my wife, and so we're looking into a new battery - more affordable than a new car, and really there is nothing wrong with this truly solid car (17k miles in 5 years) other than the loss of battery capacity.

So - what's your best guess for what we should do? We're past the 5-year warranty (if that's the one that matters in batteries). We'd spring for a new one even if we had to pay for the whole thing. It seems really hit-or-miss and who you talk to at Nissan as to whether they'll pay any of the cost. And it's only 1 bar - yet what's confounding for us is that we've lost almost 40% of our range. I've read that the early Leafs can't take the 30kwh battery, but a new 24 would be great. And we'd sure appreciate some sound advice on when/how to charge it to maintain its capacity as long as possible.

And thanks to everybody for maintaining this really great forum. One of the best things about the Internet - it widens your circle of acquaintances exponentially.

SageBrush
Posts: 1407
Joined: Sun Mar 06, 2011 2:28 am
Delivery Date: 13 Feb 2017
Location: Colorado

Re: Nissan Battery Replacement Program, Cost

Sat Nov 04, 2017 2:09 am

A new battery will bump up your GOM range into the low 70s miles presuming 60 miles now and all else staying the same.

Calc:
By bars you have lost 15-20% of capacity, so a new battery would bump the GOM range up to
as much as 60/0.8 to as little as 60/0.85

The problem you are facing, that is not much mitigated by a new battery, is the power draw from using heat and particularly defrost. Find solutions to these issues if you can, although the ease with which windshields fog in Eugene makes this a non-trivial task. I would probably start with hygroscopic glass treatments that reduce fogging. "RainX" is a well known brand but I think better formulations exist. Perhaps locals have some useful advice. Watch this video

https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=8Vj9avZxuwI
It is amusing at leaset, although I cannot vouch for the results.

Here is a good primer on foggy windows
https://www.usatoday.com/story/money/ca ... /18608683/
I would not take the advice given since they are not trying to conserve battery energy, but an understanding of why condensation happens is helpful. Fog avoidance comes down to being a game of:
1. Reducing the cabin humidity
2. Heating up the glass

Specific conditions dictate how to use least energy, but remember that an ICE is different than an EV and it may well be true that it is less energy use to use the "AC" for water removal rather than heat up the glass.
2013 Model 'S' with QC & rear-view camera
Bought off-lease Jan 2017 from N. California with 63.9 Ahr after 22k miles
Car is now enjoying an easy life in Colorado

User avatar
JPWhite
Gold Member
Posts: 1753
Joined: Sun Jul 31, 2011 3:41 pm
Delivery Date: 30 Jul 2011
Leaf Number: 5734
Location: Hendersonville TN
Contact: Website WLM Yahoo Messenger AOL

Re: Nissan Battery Replacement Program, Cost

Sat Nov 04, 2017 7:00 am

@Wiegro

Does your LEAF have heated seats? It wasn't standard until the 2013 model. If not I suggest you look into electric heated seat covers, the type that plug into the Cigarette lighter adapter. They use miniscule amount of energy and keep you nice and toasty. With the older LEAF's you have to minimize the use of heat.

If it's too inconvenient to use less heat, switch to a 2013 or later with low miles maybe a better way of spending the battery upgrade money. The later LEAF's use a more efficient heater which impacts range much less. ("S" trim models use the same heater as the 2011-12 models, so don't upgrade to an S, it'll have the same issue).

Your range loss is due to colder temps and use of heat, not the battery. Down one bar isn't bad, not worth the upgrade cost IMHO.
Last edited by JPWhite on Sat Nov 04, 2017 7:04 am, edited 1 time in total.
--
JP White
http://jpwhitenissanleaf.com
Blue SL-e, Res 4/22/10, Ord 3/29/11, Del 7/30/11
110,000 Miles.
Lost 5 Capacity bars
7/18/13 (29,206), 8/25/14 (51,728), 7/12/15 (71.108), 5/12/16 (88,362), 10/17/16 (96,532)
New Battery 12/3/16 (98,956)

GerryAZ
Gold Member
Posts: 1448
Joined: Mon Nov 22, 2010 6:47 pm
Delivery Date: 12 Jun 2011
Location: Phoenix, AZ

Re: Nissan Battery Replacement Program, Cost

Sun Nov 05, 2017 12:17 am

The 2012 SL has the cold weather package standard so it has heated seats and steering wheel. Unfortunately, the cabin heater in the 2011 and 2012 models is a small electric hot water tank located under the hood. Also, the tank and coolant lines are not well (or not at all) insulated so the efficiency is not good. The HVAC controls turn on the resistance heater elements to heat the coolant if the temperature setting is above the present cabin temperature. Since the minimum cabin temperature set point is 60 degrees F, you cannot have the climate controls turned on for ventilation without the resistance heater wasting battery energy on a cool day.

I had to temporarily install a resistor to disable the heater on my 2011 and allow ventilation without a major loss of range during the winter in Phoenix. There is a plug-and-play aftermarket kit available that has a switch to control the operation of the water heater which I would have purchased if my car had not been declared a total loss by the other driver's insurance company.

One thing you can do to somewhat mitigate the range loss from heating the cabin is preheat while plugged in for L2 (240-volt) charging.
Gerry
Silver LEAF 2011 SL rear ended (totaled) by in-attentive driver 1/4/2015 at 50,422 miles
Silver LEAF 2015 SL purchased 2/7/2015

Return to “General / Main Owners Forum”