Costy wrote:Someone asked me about the elevation. At home I have about 2200 feet, on top of the mountain I have 3220 feet and at work only 1100 feet.
From the top of the mountain to work I go downhill about 95% of the time and from top to home I go downhill 100%. The average speed is about 35-40 miles.
That profile really is quite ideal if you are charging at work IF THE REGEN IS WORKING. The reason is that you will deplete the battery significantly before you start downhill. You probably want AT LEAST 20 kW of regen available, if you have more available, like maybe 30 kW, then you can do more than hold your speed on the downhills: you can slow the car for the turns, too.
Costy wrote:I was looking also for a 30kWh 2016 Leaf but I don't know how much it will really help me.
As LeftieBiker said above, the batteries in the 30-kWh LEAFs are degrading faster than those in the 24-kWh LEAFs, so the regen problem is likely to arise fairly quickly. The good news about the 30-kWh LEAFs is that they are warranted for capacity loss for 8 years or 100,000 miles, which means you are likely to get a new battery in there along the way (or maybe even two!).
Costy wrote:The 2018 Leaf looks nice but it's kind of expensive and I was reading lately a lot of good things about 2017 Hyundai Ioniq EV.
There's a fairly long thread on the Hyundai Ioniq on this forum
, in case you are interested. Some of the LEAF owners here bought that when it came out. I remember the comments were fairly positive. I don't know about its regen capabilities, though.
Costy wrote:I will wait for 3 to 6 months to see how the prices will go with last 2 years models and I will make a decision. I will look at other manufacturers options too. It seems that from Nissan, only the new Leaf is going to really make it all year long.
Actually, given the elevation profiles you have ANY LEAF will work well WHEN NEW or WITH A NEW BATTERY. The main issue is with the loss of regen as they get older. That's a double whammy since it eats your brakes AND takes away your chance to recover energy downhill, which greatly hurts the efficiency in the cold (which is already worse than in the warm).
BTW, if you wait 3 to 6 months, you will be testing your car in warm weather. I recommend that you instead test drive whatever car you are looking at ON YOUR WORK ROUTE IN COLD OR VERY COLD WEATHER. That's when efficiency and regen are the worst in any EV. Only then will you really know if the car is going to work for you. For instance, I'm confident that my MY2011 LEAF with its three-bar-degraded battery will work quite well on your commute, regen and all, in temperatures above about 70F.