drees said:
Good. That is how it should be. Only items between the motor and wheels that aren't covered by power train (to the best of my knowledge) are brake parts (particularly the wear parts).
2013 SV has the clicking sound
- Thread starter dndrich
- Start date
Help Support My Nissan Leaf Forum:
Good. That is how it should be. Only items between the motor and wheels that aren't covered by power train (to the best of my knowledge) are brake parts (particularly the wear parts).
Pretty baffling that a service advisor would not know exactly what's covered by the powertrain warranty.mwalsh said:
The service receipt notes NTB12-055e "Dry contact points between hub and axle. Removed axles and lubricated contact points. After repair noise was not heard no further recommendations at this time".
Yep, I had this for about a month or so. 2013 leaf with 34300 miles on the clock. Here is what I wrote to the service advisor:
"Unusual Leaf driveline noise is heard during normal driving in stop-and-go traffic It happens often but not every time on braking and acceleration. However, there’s a reliable way to reproduce the noise without moving the car:
Place foot on brake and press start
Roll down driver window.
With foot on brake, place shifter in “D”
(The distinctive “click” as transaxle shifts into gear is NOT the noise were investigating)
Place LEFT foot on brake, press hard and leave it there for remaining steps.
Place Right foot on accelerator, press and then release.
Move shifter to “R”
Press accelerator and then release
Move shifter back to “D”
Press accelerator then release.
Repeat steps 6,7,8,9 as many times as desired.
Each time the accelerator is pressed, a disturbing “thunk” is heard through the car."
========
And, here's what I got back today on the service order. I paid for 30,000 mile service, but they didn't charge me for this repair, even though the car has passed the 36 month anniversary of original purchase.
CUSTOMER STATES THERE IS A CLICKING NOISE PRESENT WHEN SWITCHING FROM DRIVE TO REVERSE AND ACCELERATION. TEST DROVE VEHICLE AND VERIFIED CONCERN. CHECKED FOR TSB AND FOUNT NTB12-055E CLICKING NOISE DURING TAKEOFF AND ACCELERATION. RE-GREASED BOTH AXLE SPLINES PER BULLETIN. ALSO NOTICED THAT THE FRONT BRAKE PADS WERE DRY AND THE PADS WERE SHIFTING WHILE SWITCHING FROM DRIVE TO REVERSE. REGREASED BOTH FRONT BRAKE PADS. CLICKING NOISE IS NO LONGER PRESENT.
So it was either cv axle splines, sticky ungreased brake pads, or a combination of both. But it made the car sound like it was falling apart, so I'm glad it's gone.
"Unusual Leaf driveline noise is heard during normal driving in stop-and-go traffic It happens often but not every time on braking and acceleration. However, there’s a reliable way to reproduce the noise without moving the car:
Place foot on brake and press start
Roll down driver window.
With foot on brake, place shifter in “D”
(The distinctive “click” as transaxle shifts into gear is NOT the noise were investigating)
Place LEFT foot on brake, press hard and leave it there for remaining steps.
Place Right foot on accelerator, press and then release.
Move shifter to “R”
Press accelerator and then release
Move shifter back to “D”
Press accelerator then release.
Repeat steps 6,7,8,9 as many times as desired.
Each time the accelerator is pressed, a disturbing “thunk” is heard through the car."
========
And, here's what I got back today on the service order. I paid for 30,000 mile service, but they didn't charge me for this repair, even though the car has passed the 36 month anniversary of original purchase.
CUSTOMER STATES THERE IS A CLICKING NOISE PRESENT WHEN SWITCHING FROM DRIVE TO REVERSE AND ACCELERATION. TEST DROVE VEHICLE AND VERIFIED CONCERN. CHECKED FOR TSB AND FOUNT NTB12-055E CLICKING NOISE DURING TAKEOFF AND ACCELERATION. RE-GREASED BOTH AXLE SPLINES PER BULLETIN. ALSO NOTICED THAT THE FRONT BRAKE PADS WERE DRY AND THE PADS WERE SHIFTING WHILE SWITCHING FROM DRIVE TO REVERSE. REGREASED BOTH FRONT BRAKE PADS. CLICKING NOISE IS NO LONGER PRESENT.
So it was either cv axle splines, sticky ungreased brake pads, or a combination of both. But it made the car sound like it was falling apart, so I'm glad it's gone.
Phatcat73
Well-known member
Thanks for the writeup. It reproduces my problem consistently. Unfortunately the dealer is quoting me the following:
1) $1300 - replace all 3 motor mounts (2 have leaked out all fluid) - Advisor stated not covered under EV powertrain
2) $450 - replace front pads and rotors. Pads are shifting and rotors slightly warped. Pads cannot be re-tightened/adjusted. Pads have 6mm left (50%)
Taking it next to my trusty mechanic who's not EV centric but has an accurate BS meter and can at least take a look at these non EV
specific components.
Update-
Brakes seem fine and out of the 3 mounts, 2 are in the front, 1 is in the rear. The 1 front looks ok, while the other has leaked fluid causing the noise. the back is slightly degraded.
1.5 book hours to replace each front
7.5 book hours to replace rear
As I now have decided to only keep the vehicle a few more months, I will just replace the 1 leaked mount to as an economical short term fix.
1) $1300 - replace all 3 motor mounts (2 have leaked out all fluid) - Advisor stated not covered under EV powertrain
2) $450 - replace front pads and rotors. Pads are shifting and rotors slightly warped. Pads cannot be re-tightened/adjusted. Pads have 6mm left (50%)
Taking it next to my trusty mechanic who's not EV centric but has an accurate BS meter and can at least take a look at these non EV
specific components.
Update-
Brakes seem fine and out of the 3 mounts, 2 are in the front, 1 is in the rear. The 1 front looks ok, while the other has leaked fluid causing the noise. the back is slightly degraded.
1.5 book hours to replace each front
7.5 book hours to replace rear
As I now have decided to only keep the vehicle a few more months, I will just replace the 1 leaked mount to as an economical short term fix.
You can save about $150 on the brakes by using a trusted independent shop. Leaf brakes are completely standard. I do suggest that you use the highest quality rotors available if you plan to keep the car, because rotor warping is a common problem with Japanese cars.
LincolnW
Member
My 2013 Leaf has recently started making this clicking sound. I don't believe it's under warranty so I'd like to fix it myself. Any idea where I might find info on NTB12-055e?
LincolnW
Member
By way of follow up. I found the TSB for this and it looks to be super easy. You don't even need to remove the axles from the transmission. The TSB describes removing the axle nuts and pushing the axles back through the hub enough to access the bearing surface of the axle, then cleaning and applying some grease. Then slide the axle back in and torque the axle nut down.
I'm going to do this sometime this week and I'll report back if there are any problems. I don't anticipate there being any, seems very simple.
The TSB says to use specific grease and to use new axle nuts and cotter pins. I'm not going to worry about it though, I'll just reuse the parts and use regular moly grease. So it will be free!
I'm going to do this sometime this week and I'll report back if there are any problems. I don't anticipate there being any, seems very simple.
The TSB says to use specific grease and to use new axle nuts and cotter pins. I'm not going to worry about it though, I'll just reuse the parts and use regular moly grease. So it will be free!
