Fuse diagram

hello, Is there somewhere a picture of the fuse box??? It's impossible to identify the fuses...

Cheers

I have a '12, so I'm not sure if this holds true for '13.

If the "fuse box" you are talking about is the end or the drivers side dash, under the panel, then on my car, the fuse diagram is molded into the removable cover panel.

Not easy to see, but hard to lose.

I couldn't find this photo on the forum, but it has reappeared in the Wiki. The circled fuse is the one that lets you reset the Nav system without doing the whole car.

http://www.mynissanleaf.com/wiki/index.php?title=File:Fuse_34_img0469k.jpg" onclick="window.open(this.href);return false;

Yes, on my '13 all the fuse info is inside the cover of the respective fuse box. It even tells you which direction is the front. I notice that the upside-down fusebox to the right of the battery (facing the firewall) is not shown in the owners manual. Wouldn't it have been nice to have a fuse layout in the owner's manual? How hard would that be?

thanks a lot, I think I'm blind.... :lol:

Guys, F34 is a 20A fuse and cuts power to the entire navigational/status screen in front.

I am very interested in this idea however that the TCU upgrade on my 2013 Nissan LEAF may be responsible for my occasional dead 12v battery which then needs a jump. The timing is about right, as I never had this happen before the upgrade. My dealer at Fort Wayne and Nissan national don't seem to be able to help much. I saw one blog post that national nissan was admitting this, but I cannot confirm that. I am trying to turn all carwings stuff off but it is hard to be sure you are getting everything?

I would like to cut power to my TCU to try to confirm for sure this fixes the problem. I need the safest easiest way to cut power to the TCU only?

jdearm said:

Guys, F34 is a 20A fuse and cuts power to the entire navigational/status screen in front.

I am very interested in this idea however that the TCU upgrade on my 2013 Nissan LEAF may be responsible for my occasional dead 12v battery which then needs a jump. The timing is about right, as I never had this happen before the upgrade. My dealer at Fort Wayne and Nissan national don't seem to be able to help much. I saw one blog post that national nissan was admitting this, but I cannot confirm that. I am trying to turn all carwings stuff off but it is hard to be sure you are getting everything?

I would like to cut power to my TCU to try to confirm for sure this fixes the problem. I need the safest easiest way to cut power to the TCU only?

Click to expand...

Where are you located, and are you still using the original 12v battery?

To cut power to just the TCU, you need to get under the dash, find the TCU, and disconnect the power cable feeding it.

I replaced my original 12v battery about a month ago. I upgraded the TCU in January. I found that if I was not charging every day, the 12v battery would drop just low enough to cause the TCU to hang and need a reboot (audio fuse pull). Since replacing the 12v battery, I have not had any issues with the TCU.

Unfortunately, buying a new 12v battery was one of the first things I tried. It did not stop the occasional dead battery in the morning. My 2013 Leaf can last a week with no charging connection at times, then be dead overnight after a fresh charge in the evening. It is not predictable, and happens about once every two weeks or so even when I am charging every evening. The upgraded TCU unit sounds like a good guess, but I would like to disconnect it and see if that really solves the issue.

Thanks, jdearm

jdearm said:

Unfortunately, buying a new 12v battery was one of the first things I tried. It did not stop the occasional dead battery in the morning. My 2013 Leaf can last a week with no charging connection at times, then be dead overnight after a fresh charge in the evening. It is not predictable, and happens about once every two weeks or so even when I am charging every evening. The upgraded TCU unit sounds like a good guess, but I would like to disconnect it and see if that really solves the issue.

Thanks, jdearm

Click to expand...

When you bought the new 12v battery, did you use an external charger to make sure it was fully charged when you installed it? Most batteries are delivered only partially charged. The Leaf charging algorithm is not very good. It does okay at maintaining a charged battery, but will not bring a partially charged battery up to full charge.

If you are in an area where the AT&T signal is weak, it could possibly be an issue affecting the TCU, causing it to stay awake longer or retry multiple times to make a connection. If there is anything connected to the OBD port, it can keep the system awake and drain the battery.

Some owners have reported an issue with the charging system, where it will continue to check if the power cord is connected, and this can drain the battery. Try using the charging timer, and set it to start later so that charging is finished an hour or two before departure. Mine is set to start at 2am, when temperatures are lower.

I'm not sure, but I think the TCU is located behind the glove box. Removing it may make the TCU easier to locate.

jdearm wrote: Unfortunately, buying a new 12v battery was one of the first things I tried. It did not stop the occasional dead battery in the morning. My 2013 Leaf can last a week with no charging connection at times, then be dead overnight after a fresh charge in the evening. It is not predictable, and happens about once every two weeks or so even when I am charging every evening. The upgraded TCU unit sounds like a good guess, but I would like to disconnect it and see if that really solves the issue.

Click to expand...

I'm having the same issue with my 2015 Leaf. The dealer replaced the 12v. The problem returned within a couple weeks. Then the dealer replaced the TCU. The problem returned within a couple weeks. The dealer could not repeat the problem. They asked me to bring my EVSE charger in. I have a EVSEUPGADE.COM 240v modified Nissan (Panasonic) 4.8kw charger. I've been using the charger for almost 3 years with no problems. I run the charger under my garage door which puts pressure on the charge cable but there is no external damage to the cable. I bring the charger to the Nissan dealer and then they did nothing more, told me it wasn't a warranty issue and tried to charge me for the diagnostic work, even though they never tested the charger or even plugged it into the Leaf. Considering that an owner may use a variety of chargers from many different mftrs, I feel they are just looking for an excuse not to resolve the problem. I'm going to try a different charger as soon as I can acquire one to see if that could be the cause.

It seems like the 12 volt just slowly drains. The warning light comes on after charging overnight then goes off later in the day after driving and then restarting the Leaf. This will happen for a couple days and then the 12v will be dead and not open doors, etc.
Any other ideas out there for the draining 12v issue?

^^^
It seems the 3G TCU upgrade is buggy and in some use cases will cause a ! yellow car warning light accompanied by DTC P3131 (you can view DTCs w/Leaf Spy). Some folks have also encountered 12 volt battery drainage with it.

These may help.
http://www.mynissanleaf.com/viewtopic.php?f=27&t=24460&p=503492&hilit=singapore+engineers#p503492
http://www.mynissanleaf.com/viewtopic.php?p=505934#p505934
search for posts by lorenfb containing tcu

I also am charging my 12 volt at least once a week w/a Tecmate Optimate 4 (which could mask problems) as the '13 Leafs (per several folks) has a lousy 12 volt charging algorithm.