JeremyW wrote:If there was a dead short across the battery terminals, besides potentially welding the main contactors, there's a chance the pre-charge resistor was damaged if someone just cleared the dtc's and tried to start the car again. Normally, the DTC's should have prevented inadvertent restart until a tech could take a look..
Basicly, theres a large capacitance in the inverter input and if the contactors were allowed to just connect the battery to this large capacitance, there would be a huge inrush that could actually damage the caps and cause a voltage spike. So, in every production EV, there's a pre-charge circuit that puts a fairly large resistance between the battery positive terminal and the dc components until the voltage rises to near normal levels, then the main positive contactor is switched in.
Hoping that it's just the DC/DC junction box and the AC compressor that will fix it up. Dropping the pack and opening it up can't be inexpensive. At least you have that part if it in fact failed.
Oddly it's not as bad as you'd think. 8 hours of shop time to replace the compressor and DC/DC junction box and only 4 hours to replace the battery junction box, it's the parts that are the bad part, dealership wanted $922 for the junction box and new junction box cover (apparently it changed on the new part number). I'm not sure exactly what testing the battery junction box failed but he's a top LEAF tech so I fully trust that his diagnosis is correct.
Was just adding up my costs. I'll be into this $3,500 after all the parts and labor including sales tax. Then I can probably repair the DC/DC junction box if it's just the fuses and resell it. Though it needs a detailing and some seat covers.
The other good news is I've convinced my spouse that we can finally sell the ICE and be a fully solar powered two EV family!