Car wouldn't start, now does after charging. What happened?

Events before no starting.
The last day I charged was Saturday. I didn't drive very much that day. Nor very much on Sunday.

The no start
By today (Monday) the traction battery was at about 50% (6 bars, I didn't actually look at percent). I hadn't used the car since last night. I jumped in this afternoon and pushed the button and it went to accessories. The radio came on, dash lit up, but it had the "push pedal then button" sign. So I tried it again, and nothing, still asking me to push the pedal, and the 12V battery light was on. I had my wife check the brake lights in case the brake light switch was bad. The brake lights worked fine.

Then I noticed the radio go off and the dash flicker on and off. So I suspected the 12V battery. I tried hooking jumper cables off of another battery in an ICE car. Still the same. I started the ICE car. The Leaf still wouldn't start. I tried disconnecting the 12V battery (with it still charging off of the other car) and then reconnecting after a few minutes. Still no start.

I also tried charging. If I plugged in the charger and then tried pushing the off-timer button it wouldn't charge. But if I pushed the off-timer button and then plugged it in then it would charge. I still tried a few times charging a little and then attempt to start. But again, no charging.

The start
So I left it charging for a couple hours. When I got back it had charged to 80%. I unplugged it and the Leaf started just fine.

So my concern is why? Is this just a 12V battery problem? Or should I be worried over something else?

What's the voltage of the 12 volt battery?

cwerdna said:

What's the voltage of the 12 volt battery?

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When the traction battery is being charged, so is the 12V. I agree, sounds like a weak failing 12V battery...

Also, check/clean the chassis ground connection of the negative cable (near the 12-volt battery) as well as the 12-volt positive and ground connections at the DC-DC converter and both battery terminals. I found that the chassis ground connection of the negative cable was compromised by paint that the factory failed to remove at the threaded connection to the body.

I third the idea that it's the 12 volt system, and agree that it may have as much or more to do with connections as with the charge level of the little battery. Otherwise it should have started with the booster cables.

cwerdna said:

What's the voltage of the 12 volt battery?

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I wish I knew. I went to get my DMM to check the voltage, but it's battery was dead. I forgot I also have an analog voltmeter. It's not near as accurate as the DMM but it's better than nothing. I'll get it out, or get the DMM's battery replaced and have one of the two on hand so if this happens again I'll be able to answer that question.

I assume it was low because 1) the dash started flickering and 2) because when I connected the jumper cables there was a decent spark. And the ol' diesel started up just fine, so it's big battery wasn't the problem, and then started to squeal because of alternator draw, meaning it was charging hard either one or both batteries. I also had the diesel engine revved up.

Even after the alternator squealing stopped the Leaf still wouldn't start.

LeftieBiker said:

... Otherwise it should have started with the booster cables.

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Ya, something just doesn't seem right. Usually if the battery is low, then adding a running car to it for several minutes should boost the voltage up enough to start, I would think anyhow. But then again, I didn't have my voltmeter with me. If I had, I could have made sure things were connected correctly.

I plan on taking the battery in to get it check tomorrow. I'll see what happens.

GerryAZ said:

Also, check/clean the chassis ground connection of the negative cable (near the 12-volt battery) as well as the 12-volt positive and ground connections at the DC-DC converter and both battery terminals. I found that the chassis ground connection of the negative cable was compromised by paint that the factory failed to remove at the threaded connection to the body.

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Thanks! I'll do that. A quick look at the battery terminals; they seem very clean to me. I took the negative off and it was very clean. I also checked the battery electrolyte. It didn't need any water. I'll check for that paint.

With the Leaf you have to put the negative jumper on the frame or some other place besides the negative terminal.

VitaminJ said:

With the Leaf you have to put the negative jumper on the frame or some other place besides the negative terminal.

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Could you explain more?

I understand why on any vehicle that should be the case. The last connection is the only one that can make a spark. And lead acid batteries produce highly explosive pure hydrogen mixed with pure oxygen gas. Put the last cable on the battery and there's a small chance you'll blow the top off the battery and spray yourself with sulfuric acid. It has been known to happen. Plus on an ICE vehicle putting the negative on the engine block also shortens the distance between the starter and the starting battery.

But how does this help on a Leaf? :?:

There is a multimeter built into the negative terminal clamp. It doesn't quite work right if the negative terminal is used directly. You can place the jumper on the bolt head just in front of the negative terminal too, that's on the other side of the multimeter so it works.

VitaminJ said:

There is a multimeter built into the negative terminal clamp. It doesn't quite work right if the negative terminal is used directly. You can place the jumper on the bolt head just in front of the negative terminal too, that's on the other side of the multimeter so it works.

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Odd, but interesting.

I'll definitely try that the next time it happens. But right now I want to get that battery checked today if I get time to do it. If it's bad, are there any battery recommendations? It would seem to me that whatever has the longest warranty would be best.

This is the one I and I believe many other people have been getting, it's totally sealed and lighter than the OEM Leaf battery.
Of course for maximum lightness you could go with a 12v Li battery, although expect to pay even more for one of those, for sure one comparable in capacity.
https://www.amazon.com/Optima-Batteries-8073-167-YellowTop-Purpose/dp/B0013ZGZ9Q/ref=au_as_r?_encoding=UTF8&Make=Nissan%7C67&Model=Leaf%7C16223&Year=2013%7C2013&ie=UTF8&n=15684181&s=automotive&vehicleId=2&vehicleType=automotive

Ok. So I got the battery tested. Battery condition is:

GOOD.

I'll try cleaning up all the connections this weekend. Right now I just cleaned up the already clean looking battery terminals with a wire brush.

I couldn't find my DMM so I'll be lugging around my big analog voltmeter. Right now it showed almost exactly 12V with the car off and almost exactly 13V. Of course this thing isn't the most accurate thing in the world, so it could be a bit more or less than that.

I had been planning to get one of the Yellow Top Optimas when my battery needs replacement. The cost was at $147, and now is at $172. I started looking at other options, and noticed that the Optima and the Duracells sold at Sam's Club have 3 year free replacement warranties. Most everything else is pro-rated after 18 months. The 51R battery is sold at Sam's Club for $103. I started looking at other batteries that might fit, and found the 96R. I have not measured yet, but based on the online specs it should fit in the Leaf battery tray. It has a longer reserve time, higher CCA, and sells at Sam's Club for $92. My local Sam's Club shows that both the 51R and 96R are regular stock items. If I can make it fit, easily, my next battery will be a 96R.

VitaminJ said:

With the Leaf you have to put the negative jumper on the frame or some other place besides the negative terminal.

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I have connected a booster battery directly to LEAF 12-volt battery terminals to successfully jump the 2011 one time and the 2015 one time. As noted earlier, I found paint compromising the ground connection to the body near the 12-volt battery. That connection would be bypassed if the negative booster cable was connected directly to chassis ground.

GerryAZ said:

VitaminJ said:

With the Leaf you have to put the negative jumper on the frame or some other place besides the negative terminal.

Click to expand...

I have connected a booster battery directly to LEAF 12-volt battery terminals to successfully jump the 2011 one time and the 2015 one time. As noted earlier, I found paint compromising the ground connection to the body near the 12-volt battery. That connection would be bypassed if the negative booster cable was connected directly to chassis ground.

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Now that makes more sense.

If a >12V battery can start the car a >12V jump at the battery should also start the car unless there's a grounding issue (meaning the battery was fine the whole time).

If this is the case, simply jumping the Leaf's own 12V battery negative to ground on the frame should also be enough to start the car.

It totally depends on how dead the battery is and other factors. Yes, you probably can jump it directly on the posts in Phoenix when it's nice in the mid 80s, but on the other hand in Gunnison when it's single digits overnight, the same method will not work. It's about how much you can raise the voltage and get the Leaf's DC converter to kick on, and a warm battery's voltage will raise way more than a cold one in a lot shorter time.

VitaminJ said:

It totally depends on how dead the battery is and other factors. Yes, you probably can jump it directly on the posts in Phoenix when it's nice in the mid 80s, but on the other hand in Gunnison when it's single digits overnight, the same method will not work. It's about how much you can raise the voltage and get the Leaf's DC converter to kick on, and a warm battery's voltage will raise way more than a cold one in a lot shorter time.

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Does the Leaf have some high startup current that I'm not aware of? I have a hard time believing that a 1000CA battery and a running 14V 105A alternator wouldn't be enough to raise the Leaf's tiny 12V battery voltage to acceptable levels at any temperature and state of charge.

How long did you leave it hooked up?

VitaminJ said:

How long did you leave it hooked up?

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15 minutes. But what would that have to do with anything? I've charged three completely dead 1000CA bus batteries at the same time at a lower current than what my alternator can put out in even colder weather and still could get 14V.

Vitaminj is barking up the wrong tree, for the reasons given, but it may still be an issue with the 12 volt battery or connections. I'm less convinced of that, now, though.