Help detecting fuse problems

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Luxeon

Member
Joined
Nov 30, 2018
Messages
5
Hey there happy nissan leaf owners/specialists !

Month ago one problem occurred: when i released acceleration pedal it started breaking like ABS, same when hit normal brake pedal ! (Abs,Esp, red (!) and yellow (!) lights were seen at dash)
Car was at nissan official dealership:
They changed me this fuse (check attached photo) and problem was solved for 5 days or 900km (round 550miles).
Then following same symptoms problem occurred again.
Car was again sent to same delaership.
This time they said its rear wheel bearing magnet so they changed it and problem disappeared.

Interesting question is that i have phoned (with light bulb) all this contacts on fuse and all of them worked !!!
So now im thinking i got scammed.
They said this fuse was in corrosion. Does it make any sense ?
There are: 60A, 100, 80, 100 & 100A connections (total of 5) i can see there, and only 60A has light-green corrosion signs. (that's lowest on photo).
Whats the function of this 60A connection ?? Is it somehow connected to ABS/ESP ?

Did any1 had similar problems ? Did any1 at all touch/replace this fuse ?
Couldn't find any info on this, wasted hours.
Thanks for any help guys !

Leaf is 09.2014 with 194000km driven in northern Europe (Estonia) . SOH 83-84%..

Photo of fuse here:
p1cthl9vas11516hmaub4e51adv4.jpg
 
It could just be corroded contacts, although it's usually not hard to tell if a fuse has blown or not. If it blows more than once the problem is not the fuse.
 
LeftieBiker said:
It could just be corroded contacts, although it's usually not hard to tell if a fuse has blown or not. If it blows more than once the problem is not the fuse.
How to detect if its blown ?
Doesn't my test: phoning with light bulb exclude its blown ??
 
Get your 12V battery tested. Need a load test, not just resting voltage. Use someone other than Nissan. Any automotive shop should be able to do this. Maybe even auto-parts store (as is done here in U.S.).
A weak 12V battery may have led them down this happy path. I have personally witnessed odd braking/ABS behaviors with a weak 12V battery, and others have reported similar experiences here.
Also it might help to use LEAF Spy to read (and clear) the various diagnostic trouble codes.
 
Nubo said:
Get your 12V battery tested. Need a load test, not just resting voltage. Use someone other than Nissan. Any automotive shop should be able to do this. Maybe even auto-parts store (as is done here in U.S.).
A weak 12V battery may have led them down this happy path.
Also it might help to use LEAF Spy to read (and clear) the various diagnostic trouble codes.
Ill have this test done this weekend !!
Yeah i know its my fault i didn't use LeafSpy when it happened. Was so much depressed and wanted problem to get solved asap..plus had zero reasons not to trust nissan dealer.

I have looked at what they wrote as a reason at first diagnostics:
12V battery fuse corroded in the part that's responsible for braking. (exact translation from Estonian)

Is that part responsible for braking ? :D


P.S. So basically u think its more likely to be 12v battery and no way that's fuse ?

p.s.s. thanks for pretty quick answers !
 
LeftieBiker said:
How to detect if its blown ?
Doesn't my test: phoning with light bulb exclude its blown ??

We're having a little translation difficulty here. Do you mean "testing with test light" or something else?
yeah man, but instead of using a special tool i used handmade tool made from bulb and two wires.

(Mby its really context translation mistake. In Estonian/Russian: phoning = testing = sending information or signal through something(wire).).
 
Yes, a context problem. Here, "phoning" refers to communication only. If the test light shows continuity, then it isn't a bad fuse. The suggestions about a bad or low 12 volt battery may be correct - hopefully. If so you will need LeafSpy Pro to clear the error codes after charging or replacing the battery. If you replace it, fully charge the replacement with an external charger.
 
LeftieBiker said:
Yes, a context problem. Here, "phoning" refers to communication only. If the test light shows continuity, then it isn't a bad fuse. The suggestions about a bad or low 12 volt battery may be correct - hopefully. If so you will need LeafSpy Pro to clear the error codes after charging or replacing the battery. If you replace it, fully charge the replacement with an external charger.
Okay man, thanks ! Ill test my 12v battery this weekends and report the results here. + ill charge it with external smart charger and test it again !
 
Luxeon said:
P.S. So basically u think its more likely to be 12v battery and no way that's fuse

I can't say for certain, but the symptoms and age argue in favor of having the battery tested, as does the quick return of the braking problem. Battery is easy to check and if tests weak then it needs replacing anyway. At >4 years old, it is not unreasonable. So you won't be spending a lot of money for something that is not necessary.

The fusible-link box seems an unlikely cause since you have verified continuity, and encountered same problem AFTER replacement. I suppose corrosion in that block could cause voltage sag or restricted or intermittent current flow, but a weak 12V battery seems a more likely cause of low voltage.
 
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