Gids: How low can I go?

Trying to go from 9 to 8 bars as fast as possible. Many recommend draining battery as low as possible then recharge to 100%, repeat, repeat til 8 bars. I get to 4 Gids (from max 190), then it seems to just drain 12v rather than main. Can I get Gids less than 4 by leaving on ALL accessories til it dies or does that just abuse my 12v?

Main DC contactor opens (Shutdown) at 4 Gids. After that you are just draining the 12-volt battery.

It's all about HEAT. Keep the battery pack as warm as you can; worry more about how much you keep it @100% rather than how close you get to 0%.

Tandemrider said:

... Can I get Gids less than 4 by leaving on ALL accessories til it dies or does that just abuse my 12v?

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No once Pack disconnect occurs you are just hurting the 12V battery.

It is about heat.
But LBW down to disconnect causes a lot of heat.
About 5F rise from where it was at LBW.

But to get hot enough to lose capacity fast you need a warm space and multiple cycles.
Need 105F to 115F battery temps.

Does gunning the car, lots of KW to the motor create heat?

Get on the freeway.. set off like a rocket on the 'on ramp' get off at the next exit, regen as much as you can, turn around do the same putting in and out as much KW to and from the motor as you can?

that would create heat too, no.

Do some QC charging... go for a jolly up and steep hill and back down again, rise and repeat?

Lots of QC. Drive fast from one QC to another and QC multiple times on hot days.

Unfortunately no QC for this car

Gunning (especislly up hills) then coasting then repeat, repeat. Got my average temp up to 128.5 before I recharged! After recharge, I will let it cool to average temp less than 120. I read that your warranty may be invalidated if above 120 fo 24 hrs.

Tandemrider said:

Gunning (especislly up hills) then coasting then repeat, repeat. Got my average temp up to 128.5 before I recharged! After recharge, I will let it cool to average temp less than 120. I read that your warranty may be invalidated if above 120 fo 24 hrs.

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You must be in Phoenix :shock:
Spirited driving can easily raise pack temperature 15F to 20F above ambient.
You said previously your garage is 100F to 110F twelve hours a day.

Good luck making your capacity warranty deadline in September.
Not much time left.

It's all about HEAT. Keep the battery pack as warm as you can; worry more about how much you keep it @100% rather than how close you get to 0%.

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I sent OBDII to last owner to try to get Ahr but he couldn't get it to pair with his iPhone. I arrived Sat and measured Ahr at 46.41. I took advice from PM and fully charged it then drained it until it died. Then lost 12 hrs before I realized that I could restart it with charge cables. Since then ran as hard as I could (with traffic) 5-6 times up mountain (3564 ft) with ALL accessories on. Then started getting advice about heat. Since then I have stay low (warmer) and drove with surges getting average temp to > 128F, then charging and staying that hot until fully charged. I probably did full depth discharges (193 to 4 GIDs) a total of 12 times in 4 days with 1/2 up 3564 ft mountain and 1/2 rolling/flat low road with surges keeping battery always > 125F except for brief period where I cool it less than 120F each day. My hot garage helps keep it warm.
My Ahr went from 46.41 on Sat to 46.52 today! Has all of my effort been futile or am I likely to see Ahr start to drop very soon? It only took 3.5 hr (with cooler battery) to do full charge (240v no QC) first time and now takes about 6-7 hrs (with hot battery). Is that difference just do to hot battery or am I seeing increased resistance from battery deterioration? My first turtle occurred at 4 GIDs (cooler battery). My last turtle began at 33 GIDS! My SOH is 70%
Should I continue to do full depth discharge/charge cycles, trying to keep the battery as warm as possible OR
Keep the battery 100% charged and as hot as possible as long as possible (with short cooling break at night to avoid being > 120F for >24H)?

I would say longer charge time is hot battery.

Turtle at 33 Gids may have been the very hot battery Turtle.

When you do deep cycling you likely improved cell balancing.
That can make capacity available improve a little.
Should go back to dropping at some point.

I think capacity loss is quicker cycling than sitting at 100%.

But you are a long ways from losing eighth bar and not much time.
Most people lost around 42.5 AHr and SOH 64%.
But you are a long ways from there and not much time.

Also eighth bar may have two week or more long term average time delay.

Turtled today again at 4 GIDs. I took it to cool spot and let all sensors cool <120F. Then drove hard again with ALL accessories and got back to average temp 120.4F. Does warranty get invalidated if 1 of 4 sensors is > 120F for 24h or only the average temp > 120F That is a big difference for me. TimLee was probably right about turtling at 33 GIDs due to hot battery turtle.

Tandemrider said:

... Does warranty get invalidated if 1 of 4 sensors is > 120F for 24h or only the average temp > 120F That is a big difference for me. ...

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To the best of my knowledge Nissan has not been that specific.

But I have heard that some pushed way beyond 120F, maybe even 10F to 15F beyond, without triggering codes and were successful in getting warranty replacement.
All fourth hand word of mouth.
Could be completely erroneous.

I don't think mine was ever higher than 116F though.