ookoshi
Posts: 13
Joined: Wed Mar 07, 2018 9:37 am
Delivery Date: 05 Jul 2014

2018 Nissan Leaf SV - Amplifier + Sub + 4 Speaker Replacement

Sun Jul 22, 2018 9:46 pm

Previously, I owned a 2014 Nissan Leaf SL with the Bose system, and by the time the lease was up the range had decreased to the point where it was a little annoying based on my daily commute distance (31 miles 1-way, mostly highway, so it eventually lost the ability to make a round trip without charging it at work), so I never really had an inclination to upgrade the sound system. I ended up replacing it about 5 months ago with a 2018 Leaf SV without the Bose system, and I plan on keeping this car for a while, so I figured I'd make it sound decent.

In any case, my original plan was to keep the factory speakers and just add an amp and a sub, since I'm sort of a basshead anyways. So, I ended up purchasing the following for my amp and sub setup:

Rockford Fosgate P3D4-10 Punch P3 DVC 4-Ohm 10-Inch 500-Watt RMS 1000 Watts Peak Subwoofer
BBox E10S Single 10" Sealed Carpeted Subwoofer Enclosure
Pioneer GM-D8601 Class D Mono Amplifier with Wired Bass Boost Remote
Surge F-4 Flo Series By Surge 4 Gauge 2000W AWG Amplifier Installation Wiring Amp Install Kit
Procraft 2U 12" Deep Equipment 2 Space

I picked the Pioneer amp mostly because it has auto-sensing and doesn't require me to run a turn-on wire.

On the 2014 leaf, I had the cargo organizer, so I considered getting the 2018 version to hold the amp and sub, but the trunk had so much more usable space on the 2018 leaf I didn't want the cargo organizer taking up so much space. The idea was to have the 2U carpeted rack enclosure hold the amplifier, and I would have the option of putting the sub enclosure on top of the amp enclosure or I could keep them separate.

The inside of the 2U rack was wood and not carpet so I initially mounted the amp to it with industrial strength velcro, and planned on securing it with screws after I was done with the installation, although to be honest I've been lazy and it's still held there with industrial strength velcro.

I was also planning on securing the enclosures to the frame, but based on where I ended up putting the amp and sub enclosures, they actually don't move around at all, even with aggressive turning and braking, so again I've been lazy.

Connected the power wire to the battery, put an in-line 100A fuse about 6" down, then ran the wire through the firewall. Spent a lot of time trying to figure out where to run the power through the firewall. There's actually a single point in the firewall on the driver's side (above and to the left of the brake pedal) that has a bunch of wires running through it. I ended up just running the power wire through the same point. Then just put the power wire under the carpet until I got past the rear seat. If you fold down the rear seat you can see where the power cable comes up, but with the seats up you can't see any loose wiring at all.

Pulling up the door trim and allows you to just pop off the B-pillar cover, and that was pretty much all that was required to wire the amp. For the audio input, I spliced into the wiring for the rear door speaker. I didn't mess with the wiring in the doors, the wiring to the rear speaker goes through the b-pillar, so that's where I ended up splicing into the rear speaker wire. If you do decide to use a line out converter, there's some empty space in the b-pillar to stash it, so it's a good spot for handling this stuff. I ran the remote volume control to the edge of the carpeting next to the shifter, so I could adjust it by reaching down.

Rest of the wiring is pretty standard for a amp/sub setup. Power wires hooked up to the amp, along with the inputs, speaker out from the amp to the sub enclosure. The sub had dual voice coils at 4 ohm, so hooked them up parallel to drop the impedance at 2 ohms. Sub wants 500 watt RMS, amp puts out 500 watt RMS at 2 ohms, so I was pretty much done at that point.

At this point, the bass sounded great, but the factory speakers started clipping like crazy at the volumes I wanted to play the bass at, so after a couple of months, I decided to replace the factory speakers with something better.

Ended up getting 4 Rockford Fosgate Prime 6.75" speakers: https://www.crutchfield.com/p_575R1675X ... l?tp=78072

Crutchfield throws in the adapter bracket and speaker harness for free, so it was only $80 for all 4 speakers. The instructions for the 1st gen leafs still apply, and between the adapter bracket and speaker harness I didn't have to drill any holes in the car (although I had to drill some holes in the adapter bracket). The bracket that ships is designed for 6.5" speakers, and I had 6.75" speakers, so I had to do some extra drilling to fit it into the bracket properly. In hindsight, I would've just gotten 6.5" speakers to save me the extra work.

Sorry for the stream of consciousness post. Wasn't planning on posting anything, so I didn't take pictures as I did the work, but it was a fun project for sure, and wanted to share that doing this on a 2018 leaf isn't any harder than on the 1st gen leafs. I'll take pictures tomorrow during the day of the visible components (remote volume control, amp, sub, enclosures).
2014 to 2018 -> 2014 Leaf SL (leased, then purchased)
2018 to Present -> 2018 Leaf SV (leased)

lashlee
Posts: 24
Joined: Sun Jul 01, 2018 8:55 pm
Delivery Date: 02 Jul 2018
Leaf Number: 306063

Re: 2018 Nissan Leaf SV - Amplifier + Sub + 4 Speaker Replacement

Mon Jul 23, 2018 12:24 am

Thanks for the info. My install will take a little longer due to work and life but I'm glad I'm not the only one making leafs sound a little better!

ookoshi
Posts: 13
Joined: Wed Mar 07, 2018 9:37 am
Delivery Date: 05 Jul 2014

Re: 2018 Nissan Leaf SV - Amplifier + Sub + 4 Speaker Replacement

Mon Jul 23, 2018 8:24 am

Here's what it looks like finished:

Remote volume control
Image

Wider angle picture
Image

Amp and sub enclosures, with enough room for luggage when picking up family from the airport
Image

Amp inside the enclosure, with enough room for heat dissapation
Image
2014 to 2018 -> 2014 Leaf SL (leased, then purchased)
2018 to Present -> 2018 Leaf SV (leased)

ookoshi
Posts: 13
Joined: Wed Mar 07, 2018 9:37 am
Delivery Date: 05 Jul 2014

Re: 2018 Nissan Leaf SV - Amplifier + Sub + 4 Speaker Replacement

Mon Jul 23, 2018 8:40 am

I felt like at this point I've done all I can without messing with the head unit (except maybe replacing the tweeters in the A pillar, which I didn't do because I didn't want to be poking around the curtain airbag, even though I understand it's not a big risk). If I had unlimited time and budget, I could get a high end 5 channel line out converter to clean up the signal and not rely on the head unit to amplify the signal, then add in a 4 channel amp and get higher end speakers for the doors. I'd also get a higher power amp for the subs and run two 10" subs instead of one. But, at that point, I feel like I'd be drawing too much power from the DC-DC converter, and I'd probably need to add another battery just to run that kind of system, at which point I'm taking up the entire trunk with audio equipment, and my wife will start questioning her life choices :lol: .

The only annoying thing about having the head unit be a 1-stop interface for navigation, climate control, radio, etc. is that you can't really replace it without losing access to all of that functionality. If the radio related stuff was separated from the car controls, I'd be more inclined to go all out.
2014 to 2018 -> 2014 Leaf SL (leased, then purchased)
2018 to Present -> 2018 Leaf SV (leased)

ookoshi
Posts: 13
Joined: Wed Mar 07, 2018 9:37 am
Delivery Date: 05 Jul 2014

Re: 2018 Nissan Leaf SV - Amplifier + Sub + 4 Speaker Replacement

Mon Jul 23, 2018 8:50 am

Just as an added note. My install was not without its comically bad moments. For example, when I was originally running the power from the battery, I connected 6-10" of power wire to the 100A fuse, and then connected the other end to the positive terminal of the battery (without putting the plastic cover back on the fuse). I was playing around with where I was going to tie/down the fuse to when it slipped out of my hands the the other end of the fuse came into contact with ... the engine casing .... If you follow the negative terminal of the battery, you'll see that's where the electrical system grounds itself to. So, I shorted the connection and immediately blew the fuse. That's not a big deal, except I ended up having to order another fuse from Amazon and had to wait until the next weekend to complete the installation.
2014 to 2018 -> 2014 Leaf SL (leased, then purchased)
2018 to Present -> 2018 Leaf SV (leased)

lashlee
Posts: 24
Joined: Sun Jul 01, 2018 8:55 pm
Delivery Date: 02 Jul 2018
Leaf Number: 306063

Re: 2018 Nissan Leaf SV - Amplifier + Sub + 4 Speaker Replacement

Mon Jul 23, 2018 7:49 pm

I haven't looked into the wiring, but the H/U in the SL like I have actually sends a low level signal out of the H/U to the OEM amp. I tested my car with an oscilloscope and a DMM, then RTA'd the signal to see its flat, clean and unclipped 3.6v output. I found a harness that I had to repin at the OEM amp and I'll use that to feed the signal to my processor and two five channel amps. Plug and play and as good as an aftermarket with all of the OEM perks.

ookoshi
Posts: 13
Joined: Wed Mar 07, 2018 9:37 am
Delivery Date: 05 Jul 2014

Re: 2018 Nissan Leaf SV - Amplifier + Sub + 4 Speaker Replacement

Tue Jul 24, 2018 10:39 am

lashlee wrote:I haven't looked into the wiring, but the H/U in the SL like I have actually sends a low level signal out of the H/U to the OEM amp. I tested my car with an oscilloscope and a DMM, then RTA'd the signal to see its flat, clean and unclipped 3.6v output. I found a harness that I had to repin at the OEM amp and I'll use that to feed the signal to my processor and two five channel amps. Plug and play and as good as an aftermarket with all of the OEM perks.


When I was originally installing my sub and amp, the thought did cross my mind that, since my H/U is technically the same one as the one with the Bose system, there would probably be an line level output for the Bose amp, and, if I could find the proper pins, I wouldn't have to splice the speaker output. However, with just installing a sub and amp, it didn't seem worth it, especially since there was a small possibility that because I didn't have the Bose system, my head unit may not have a line level output. If I were doing a full two amp, 5-channel setup like you're doing, I would've probably pulled out the H/U to take a look.
2014 to 2018 -> 2014 Leaf SL (leased, then purchased)
2018 to Present -> 2018 Leaf SV (leased)

skyguy258
Posts: 2
Joined: Fri Sep 14, 2018 1:46 pm
Delivery Date: 14 Sep 2018

Re: 2018 Nissan Leaf SV - Amplifier + Sub + 4 Speaker Replacement

Fri Sep 14, 2018 1:54 pm

Have you noticed any considerable amount of battery drain?

I currently have two 10" Rockford subs and a 1000 watt amp, however Very hesitant on putting anything in since I do not know about battery degradation and/or worsening my mileage.

Bal
Posts: 4
Joined: Fri Sep 21, 2018 1:47 pm
Delivery Date: 18 May 2018

Re: 2018 Nissan Leaf SV - Amplifier + Sub + 4 Speaker Replacement

Fri Sep 21, 2018 2:01 pm

Hi mate, I really hate the standard sound system of the leaf too. I have the 2018 2.zero edition which didn't come with bose either but I Was thinking about doing speaker swap. Do you know what maximum output of our head unit is? I had some old vibe black air 6 speakers lying around which need a minimum of 55w RMS just to get them going! I would need to do a full setup to get them going and I'm getting a little too old for that now! So I just want the best possible 6.5's without messing with extra amps etc. Are your Fosgates doing the job?

lashlee
Posts: 24
Joined: Sun Jul 01, 2018 8:55 pm
Delivery Date: 02 Jul 2018
Leaf Number: 306063

Re: 2018 Nissan Leaf SV - Amplifier + Sub + 4 Speaker Replacement

Sun Sep 23, 2018 9:21 am

The radio may make 12-18 watts RMS at the most. The Bose version probably makes a small amount more but not nearly the 55 watts RMS that your speakers are rated for. You can always install them with the caveat that they will sound better than the OEM drivers but still not at the optimum performance of the driver.

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