I've been tweaking design documents on how to put together a major audio system in my leaf since about 4 months before I got it, and now I'm actually finally getting some time to start working on it. Yay!
So quick summary of the design goals:
DESIGN GOAL 1: <10% reduction in range in most conditions, even if system cranked continuously
If we maximize time in-car driving, say 25mph average (city driving), that's 4 hours. It's possible to be in-car driving on one charge longer, but unlikely. Most other conditions will be less time, so very rarely will we pass 4 hours of usage.
Ok, so we have 4 hours, and the total pack is 24kw/h. Therefore, it's using 6kw/h per hour: 6kw continuous while driving.
With that in mind, if the stereo consumes 660w, that brings consumption in this scenario to a total of 6.66 kw consumed when driving with stereo blasting. 24kw/h consumed at 6.66kw gives us 3.6h - 10% down. from the initial 4hr figure.
Therefore, limit of additional consumed pwer is 660w. Converted to amperage at 12v, that's 55A
Of course, the system will rarely constitute that much of a continuous drain, so range impact should be much less than 10%.
DESIGN GOAL 2: minimal increase in weight
This one is pretty self explanatory, and also contributes to the idea above about not reducing range.
DESIGN GOAL 3: Minimum long-term impact on interior
Another self-explanatory one - I want to keep the interior looking as close to stock as possible.
DESIGN GOAL 4: retain stock head unit
So the main control unit is integrated with charging systems, climate systems, etc.etc.etc... Extracting it without losing functionality is implausible. Thus, I'm stuck with it.
So those all relate to the car's specific design goals, now my personal design goals (taste, preference, etc.)
DESIGN GOAL 5: stealthy install- that's just the way I like it.
DESIGN GOAL 6: <$3000 budget
DESIGN GOAL 7: Focus on front stage sound quality
DESIGN GOAL 8: retain functional rear speakers (but have them faded off when no rear passengers)
DESIGN GOAL 9: Still want nice sub system
The design I settled on involves:
-Front outputs from the stock player disconnected from speakers, and instead connected to speaker level inputs of the factory integration unit
-Alpine imprint factory integration unit converting the speaker inputs to line level, equalizing them to compensate for the relatively low quality output, controlling crossover points and time delays, and outputting to the amplifier
-JL xd700/5 5-channel amp routing 300+ watts to the subwoofers, 100x2 to the midbass, and 100x2 to the mid-highs
-Precision Power 3.65c 3-way components with active crossover between midbass and mid, passive between mid and tweet
-Midbass mounted in front factory locations
-mid-tweet mounted custom fiberglass pods in small 'door window' areas
-Rear outputs from the head unit driving polk coaxials (can find the model number if needed) with external crossovers in the factory location in the rear door
So the components have been here for weeks waiting for me to start, but when I first tried to get started I just couldn't do it - it's been 100+ just about every day for over a month, and the garage was bar studs & rafters with siding/roof... meaning it was 5-10 degrees HOTTER than ambient.
So I spent about 2 weeks insulating and drywalling. No I've got r13 in all walls, insulated garage door, r49 in the ceiling, and drywall all around. I got a small portable A/C (12,000 BTU, which is just a bit small for 550 sqft), and it doesn't quite cut it, but it brings the internal temps down from 100+ to <80 - quite workable.
SO - I finally got started tonight! Woo!
I got main power wire run (4gauge from battery with ANL 60A fuse 11 inches of wire from batt), I got the head unit wiring done (used a pair of aftermarket/factory harnesses to make a super-short tail I can cut into so I can access wires at the HU without altering factory wiring), installed the rear coaxes (a pair of polk 2.77 ohm coaxials with an external crossover) and installed the midbass in the front doors (basically just made quickie MDF baffles in the factory locations, nothing special.
None of that is really pic-worth...
But then I decided to put a few more hours in and put together the skeleton of the trunk:
So hooray for progress!
What you're seeing is both the top of the box and the trim panel all dummied up. The bottom of the box is an exact duplicate in shape of the hard plastic panel that sits in the bottom of the hatch, and the top will rise 10" from the bottom of the trunk to sit approximately level with the 'hump' and the back end. Then the trim panel pieces will be fiberglassed together and smoothed out to fit exactly out to the sides and will sit atop everything somewhat like what's shown here - but there won't be the gaps between pieces, that'll all be 'glassed. Once it's all completed it'll be sanded and painted in a dark grey.
Now I gotta get up in about 4 hours and get ready for work, and with conversion starting in less than 24 hours, it'll probably be a week before more progress
Oh well. I'll post more when I can get to it.