2016 Altima Power Window Switch (lighted buttons!)

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I had some ebay bucks to use up and found a nice used switch for a grand total of $18 shipped. Thanks for the tips, especially to the OP and the beta testers :mrgreen:

It's summer now and I rarely have passengers since this is a commuter car for me but I've experienced the 'can't find the unlock button' before on other cars so I'm sure it is only a matter of time before I'm happy to have this. Thanks again everyone.
 
So it sounds like if one can find 25401-3TA5A and 25411-3TA1A switches cheap, even if the cosmetics are horrible, it's all good because we're really only after the circuit boards? Is that a correct assumption?

Edit: Oh, except maybe the 25411-3TA1A appears to have a lamp window for the window switch.
 
You could probably swap out the circuit boards if needed but I just swapped the entire part as it was plug and play. My original switch was black and the new one was black and was identical in all respects AFAICT except that the lights work.
 
all that is left in my ebay history is this description:

13 14 15 16 Nissan Altima Driver Window Switch OEM P/N 254013TA5A

I bought it from car.parts.usa although I'm sure there are many sellers with the same item
 
Note: after switch replacement you will need to recalibrate Auto-UP window function (due to plug disconnect, even if you re-connected the original switch back). To recalibrate: open the window and then close it by holding switch in up most position until windows is fully closed and then continue holding it for 3 more seconds.
 
Leaf15 said:
Note: after switch replacement you will need to recalibrate Auto-UP window function (due to plug disconnect, even if you re-connected the original switch back). To recalibrate: open the window and then close it by holding switch in up most position until windows is fully closed and then continue holding it for 3 more seconds.


That's interesting. Thanks! Does this explain why the auto window is so hard to control when trying to just crack the window an inch or two?
 
mwalsh said:
So it sounds like if one can find 25401-3TA5A and 25411-3TA1A switches cheap, even if the cosmetics are horrible, it's all good because we're really only after the circuit boards? Is that a correct assumption?

Edit: Oh, except maybe the 25411-3TA1A appears to have a lamp window for the window switch.

Unfortunately, in a 2011 LEAF you cannot just use the circuit board from a 25401-3TA5A - the 2011 door lock switch is COMPLETELY different which, as you might expect, means the rocker for it is completely different too. Also, it's not so easy to remove the door window rockers. So you pretty much have to swap in the whole deal, and therefore need to make sure you can live with the overall condition of the assembly you buy used.

Edit: I was able to remove the door window rockers by using a small flat-head screwdriver on each side. Be super careful with the drivers Auto rocker - a) there are a small ball-bearing and a spring that you do not want to have fly out and b) when putting it back there is a slider on the circuit board which needs to be seated between two prongs within the rocker. Don't get it seated right and your switch won't work.

In the video posted by evgarage on the other thread, it looks like his 2015 door lock switch is physically the same as the Altima one, so that changeover happened at some point in the LEAF too. If I had to guess, I would say with the 2013 model year.

On the plus side, when you do swap in the whole deal everything works as you would expect. Well, except that the rockers are actually lit with the car "on" where I would have thought they'd only be lit with the headlights on. Since I didn't check out the old LEAF assembly for the same behavior before I removed it, I don't know if that's normal or not. However, I can say that the LEAF mirror adjust knob does only light with the headlights on.

Edit 2: When I originally said "switches" in many cases I actually meant the plastic switch covers or "rockers". Have modified the post accordingly to maybe help avoid any confusion.
 
mwalsh said:
On the plus side, when you do swap in the whole deal everything works as you would expect. Well, except that the switches are actually lit with the car "on" where I would have thought they'd only be lit with the headlights on. Since I didn't check the old LEAF switches out for the same behavior before I removed them, I don't know if that's normal or not. However, I can say that the LEAF mirror adjust switch does only light with the headlights on.

I'm pretty sure on my 2017 S that the window and lock/unlock lights only come on with the headlights. IIRC, the original switch had a light in the drivers window switch that operated the same way. For me, the only difference is now I also have lights in the lock/unlock buttons.
 
goldbrick said:
I'm pretty sure on my 2017 S that the window and lock/unlock lights only come on with the headlights. IIRC, the original switch had a light in the drivers window switch that operated the same way. For me, the only difference is now I also have lights in the lock/unlock buttons.

Well, it's probably a circuit or pin-out difference between the model years. I can live with it, if it's the only consequence (and it appears to be).

Though I am tempted to swap back my 2011 switches temporarily to see what happens. Perhaps other '11/'12 owners can chime in on what the LED does in the driver's Auto window switch and save me the trouble?
 
Well, my memory didn't serve me today. The lights on my car act as described above, ie the switch lights are on when the car is on, not when the lights are switched on. I think this is by design though since they also stay on after the car is off - until the door is opened.

Now that it is dark after work I went ahead and ordered the part to do the passenger side as well. I find the lighted switches useful almost every day this time of year so having one available on the passenger side seems worth the $15 for the part.
 
goldbrick said:
Well, my memory didn't serve me today. The lights on my car act as described above, ie the switch lights are on when the car is on, not when the lights are switched on. I think this is by design though since they also stay on after the car is off - until the door is opened.

Good to have that confirmed.

I also noted the second part of your observations tonight and, in fact, came to post that as a "fun fact" right now.
 
Originally I had thought that I would only be doing this mod for novelties sake. After all, I've had my LEAF for 7 years now - I know from muscle memory where that unlock button is. But a week on, I can't believe how much easier it has made things inside the car.
 
goldbrick said:
Leaf15 said:
Note: after switch replacement you will need to recalibrate Auto-UP window function (due to plug disconnect, even if you re-connected the original switch back). To recalibrate: open the window and then close it by holding switch in up most position until windows is fully closed and then continue holding it for 3 more seconds.


That's interesting. Thanks! Does this explain why the auto window is so hard to control when trying to just crack the window an inch or two?

Yeah, the "hold-down" period to engage the auto feature is fairly short.
 
Did the Altima to LEAF switch swap today.
Worked as described.
Lights are on when the window switches are active.
13 14 15 16 Nissan Altima Driver Window Switch OEM P/N 25401-3TA5A
13 - 17 Altima Pass window Switch OEM P/N 25411-3TA1A
 
For anyone still wanting to do this, these switches also work for the 2011 Leaf.

Additionally, for the rear windows, there are some very inexpensive lighted switches for the Nissan Juke that work. You can get these from Amazon or ebay (#25411-1KL5A).
 
achatzii, did you get an actual Nissan part to get the illuminated switch for your 2011? I got a non-OEM from amazon and only the window rocker is lit...
 
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