lion
Posts: 557
Joined: Fri Apr 19, 2013 12:23 pm
Delivery Date: 22 May 2013

Re: Problem installing Daytime running lights

Mon Apr 13, 2015 5:05 am

Yes, I had the blue wire connected since day 1. Personally, I'm not comfortable powering these lights directly from that #57 wire, but I haven't done the math, and it might not be a problem at all (ignoring any potential 12V monitoring/balancing issues).

But if it works, and you're happy, then you are all set!

So the big question is, would you buy these again? ;)

lipcius
Posts: 33
Joined: Fri Feb 27, 2015 1:37 am
Delivery Date: 27 Feb 2015

Re: Problem installing Daytime running lights

Mon Apr 13, 2015 11:32 am

Well, seems a lot of people from that thread connected the power directly to #57 wire and didn't report any problems viewtopic.php?f=37&t=6134

It works so far so good, haven't had any issues. And from what I have read elsewhere, connecting anything directly to the battery is not the best solution either, as at least a minor battery drain happens that way constantly. Worst thing is that connected like this you are possibly not advised to leave the car for a couple of weeks without using it (going on holiday) as you might find a dead battery when you get back, which will need replacing. Connecting it directly to IGN wire eliminates the possibility of draining the battery when the car is off. Furthermore, I read in Philips manual, that if you experience such problems as LEDs going on/off with ignition on, it's legal to connect the red wire to IGN wire directly.

I am also happy about the Philips customer care so far. I have updated them with the situation and they replied quite fast forwarding my letter to some specialist Jeff, who I hope will answer me soon with ideas about why the blue cable didn't work or how to reset the Philips control box.

About buying these again - I think I would. I am super satisfied with how they look, especially in the dark. I would maybe consider Led fog Osrams, if they wouldn't be more than twice expensive. However for 115 Euros this Philips model is definately a worthy buy. (I am happy I didn't choose the dotted LEDs as every other car, older than 10 years, drives in my country with such installed. This single light solution looks way better on a LEAF for my taste).
2013 Nissan LEAF SV
OEM backup camera install, Philips 12825WLEDX1 DRLs

djjazzy
Posts: 54
Joined: Sun Sep 22, 2013 8:19 pm
Delivery Date: 21 Sep 2013
Location: San Francisco, CA

Re: Problem installing Daytime running lights

Mon Sep 14, 2015 3:38 pm

Just got a set of Philips Daylight 8's for my 2013 leaf.

Found your great post , regarding the problems of these DLR's coming on when vehicle is charged.

I don't want that either. Seems that you are happy with the setup now, as the
DLR's don't come on during charging. ( but sure would be nice to stay on for 30 secs or so )
But since #57 wire cuts out power immediately after the Leaf is turned off, it'll have to do.

BTW Looks like #57 is on a 10amp fuse ( that should'd be a problem with the DLR's
right? ) I'm currently running Ebay El cheap o LED DLRS off of #57 for 2 weeks, without issues.

So to sum up, you tapped into #57 wire ( in the IPDM) to the Philips RED wire ( + )
Where did you hook up the Philips BLACK Wire ( - ) ? did you use #18 in the IPDM or can the
Philips wire hook to Chassis GND.

Then you tapped the Orange Philips wire to the Leaf's Low beam headlight
( wire # 51 or #52 in IPDM )

Does this hook up give the desired results? Lights dim when headlights are turned on?

so there is NO need to hook up the Philips BLUE wire?

Thanks for all your trouble shooting.

RRLeafEV
Posts: 30
Joined: Wed Apr 01, 2015 11:18 pm
Delivery Date: 30 Apr 2017
Leaf Number: 304580
Location: PNW

Re: Problem installing Daytime running lights

Tue Feb 28, 2017 11:53 pm

Pretty good thread--thanks!

Ok, I'm set to help a LEAF friend (major DIY guy who didn't want to hire my tech) install a couple 6-LED strips to the upper front grille...

He also bought some add-a-circuit units (different brand than mentioned earlier):
https://www.amazon.com/Littelfuse-FHM200BP-mini-fuse-Add-A-Circuit-Kit/dp/B000FIWAP0/

We'd prefer to use this type of "add-a-circuit" or "add-a-fuse" device to power my DRLs from #57 wire, instead of stripping the wire & soldering and would NEVER recommend using those blue "snap" wire taps--auto mechanics and electronics techs HATE those things for various issues with dependability. Plus they're huge!

Is there a way to do this, with the add-a-circuit, either for #57 in the PDM? Or does #72 (referenced earlier in this thread with a link to 2 pictures of the "firewall" fusebox) work better??
https://onedrive.live.com/?authkey=%21AHEX0eDok14gYyg&cid=DA0BA371EB730687&id=DA0BA371EB730687%2126826&parId=DA0BA371EB730687%2126881&o=OneUp





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2017 Nissan Leaf SV in Gun Metallic
2014 SL (sold)

RRLeafEV
Posts: 30
Joined: Wed Apr 01, 2015 11:18 pm
Delivery Date: 30 Apr 2017
Leaf Number: 304580
Location: PNW

Re: Problem installing Daytime running lights

Sun Mar 12, 2017 12:36 pm

March 12, 2017 UPDATE:
Ok, yesterday we wired his 2013 LEAF SV w/Halogen headlights (no QC) using an add-a-fuse/add-a-circuit from the ebay:
http://www.ebay.com/itm/201551151323
These were surprisingly well made, with 15 amp fuses to boot!

Installed the fuse in the box between battery & firewall in #72. We checked this #72 ACC circuit using a voltmeter before wiring. NO PROBLEM - no current with LEAF off & 12V with LEAF on. This was exactly what we were hoping for (but read on, as that's not the end of the story).

Wired up something similar to these TWO-WIRE ONLY 6-LED strips (wires are really tiny gauge, around 20-22 awg):
http://www.ebay.com/itm/121670119844

And don't forget this 3M double-sided tape for mounting the bracket (you might not even need to use self-tapping screws to hold the light metal brackets in place because the LEDs are so light):
http://www.ebay.com/itm/252570225128

SAME EXACT PROBLEM AS THIS THREAD'S OP
LED DRLs work great and look great when LEAFs "ignition" or "accessory" power is on, BUT when J1772 nozzle is inserted into LEAF for L1 or L2, THE DRLs ILLUMINATE and the charger doesn't even need to be powered--just plugging it into the LEAF activates the DRL from Fuse #72!! However, when the LEAF is fully charged, the DRLs do go off, but if you remove the charger & reinsert it into the nose, the DRLs come back on again and stay on until the blue charging lights on the dash go out.

So, we guess it's back to the PDM a wire #57 (which my tech has wired many LEAF LEDs to in the past with no "charging activation" problems)... BUT, we would still like to use an add-a-circuit on wire #57, INSTEAD OF SPLICING THE WIRE SO WE CAN HAVE A DEDICATED FUSE, AND ESPECIALLY, NOT MESS WITH THE HARNESS.

DOES ANYONE KNOW WHICH FUSE IN THE PDM WOULD TAP #57 for an add-a-circuit??
Last edited by RRLeafEV on Sun Mar 12, 2017 4:22 pm, edited 1 time in total.
2017 Nissan Leaf SV in Gun Metallic
2014 SL (sold)

alozzy
Posts: 623
Joined: Fri Jan 20, 2017 4:25 pm
Delivery Date: 18 Jan 2017
Location: Vancouver, BC
Contact: Website

Re: Problem installing Daytime running lights

Sun Mar 12, 2017 1:36 pm

No idea which fuse to tap #57 wire, but perhaps you could disconnect the white plug, to which the #57 wire runs, and tease out the individual pin/terminal for that one wire. You should be able to solder on a new wire to that pin/terminal, if you can get it out of the white plug.

The plugs for the ground and #57 wires are shown here:

Image

Good luck!
Vancouver, CA owner of a 2013 Ocean Blue SV + QC, purchased 01/2017 in WA
Zencar 12/20/24/30A L1/L2 portable EVSE
1-1/4" Curt #11396 hitch
After market, DIY LED DRLs
LeafSpy Pro + Konnwei KW902 ELM327 BT OBDII dongle
Loving my first BEV :D

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