This one is similar to what Msportronics except that you have to plug in three pins. http://www.ebay.com/itm/OEM-Nissan-Leaf-VSP-Harness-Mod
Her's what I think happened. Msportronics had to strip 54 wires, then pin crimp 54 microscopic pins. A total of 108 actions each. Lots of time involved. Artist / engineers doing repetitive jobs tend to quit sooner then stop producing. On the brighter side, these are same people that bring us innovations.
For some that want to make your own, I can help you locate the OEM switch privately. I want to help. Just PM me. I spent several months and money searching for the switch by trial and error so it's reasonable that I can't post the part number....just yet. Probably around 2018 or 2019 when no one aren't allowed to sell this kind of kit or pay anyone to make/install it.
EDIT: 8-16-17: Here's a reference diagram. Switch to VSP sound com. box. Switch Internal diagram. (2011-2017 LEAF).
16-pin connector = VSP sound communication box
8-pin connector = switch unit
The upper diagram is for a fixed illumination (which is easier to work with.) The bottom is for adjustable illumination and is a theory only since I haven't yet attempt to connect it. Some might prefer a 50mA fuse but I recommend two 820-Ohm resistors.
The most important wires are 11 to 4 and 11 to 8, ignition battery voltage lead. I'd make sure this wire is a thicker gauge than the rest. 18 gauge is good. Because it' should be strong enough to blow a fuse. This wire must have a secure connection to the VSP unit, Instead, I used two, no less than 820-Ohm resistor right at pin 11. I recommend it. Only problem is the indicator light is 10% dimmer.
Decimus wrote:WIRE SIZES:
Make sure the lead (wires) are 18 gauge or bigger. Or something that doesn't burn with a 10-Amp load. Small wires can burn, but large wires will pop the fuse. Secondly, the wires have to be wrapped with electrical tape from head to toe, leaving no gaps. The one in the image above is already coated with gray insulation - that's good. This is to help with fire control.
It seems to be like if we're relying on the resistance of the wire to control the current ("large wires will pop the fuse"), that's just asking for trouble/possible fire. The maximum current should be controlled by a resistor, or some other device in the loop, not the wire gauge. Did I miss here as well?
The thicker gauge is to protect the copper wire from burning other stuffs since they're good at popping fuses. Msportronics used tiny wires on his I believe could be unsafe. If they carry 12V, 1-20 Amps then a minimum of 18 gauge is preferred. I believe 18 gauge is common for automotive wires. You probably can use tiny wires if you put the correct resistor at the starting point (on the VSP control unit) exactly what you said at the end.
(WARNING: Do not attempt to connect this unless you are a dealer mechanic. The diagram is for reference only. )