I sell what Msportronics is selling except that you have to plug in three pins. You can get one with a default to off, too. Look for my other listing that has one included. http://www.ebay.com/itm/OEM-Nissan-Leaf-VSP-Harness-Mod
Check back in 5 days if they''re out of stock.
Msportronics had to strip 54 wires, then pin crimp 54 microscopic pins. A total of 108 actions each. Lots of time involved. Artist / engineers doing repetitive jobs tend to quit sooner then stop producing. On the brighter side, these are same people that bring us innovations.
For some that want to make your own, I can help you locate the OEM switch privately. I want to help. Just PM me. I spent several months and money searching for the switch by trial and error so it's reasonable that I can't post the part number....just yet. Probably around 2018 or 2019 when no one aren't allowed to sell this kind of kit or pay anyone to make/install it.
Similar switch (not the one I have) - Panel Cluster-Switch Nissan part no. 251723NA0B. These are 6 pins plugs, which I would condense down to 3 pins for easy to install.
11 - night light, battery voltage (1-ohm resistor is put 1" from pin 11)
14 - indicator light.
5 - VSP on/off.
This diagram shows the connections and shows the complexity of the switch. The most important wire is 11 ignition battery voltage. I'd make sure this wire is a thicker gauge than the rest. 18 gauge is good. Because it's strong enough to blow a fuse. If I were to design this switch I'd eliminate pin 11 (and have the same function) and save on copper wires.
Decimus wrote:WIRE SIZES:
Make sure the lead (wires) are 18 gauge or bigger. Or something that doesn't burn with a 10-Amp load. Small wires can burn, but large wires will pop the fuse. Secondly, the wires have to be wrapped with electrical tape from head to toe, leaving no gaps. The one in the image above is already coated with gray insulation - that's good. This is to help with fire control.
It seems to be like if we're relying on the resistance of the wire to control the current ("large wires will pop the fuse"), that's just asking for trouble/possible fire. The maximum current should be controlled by a resistor, or some other device in the loop, not the wire gauge. Did I miss here as well?
The thicker gauge is to protect the copper wire from burning other stuffs since they're good at popping fuses. Msportronics used tiny wires on his I believe could be unsafe. If they carry 12V, 1-20 Amps then a minimum of 18 gauge is preferred. I believe 18 gauge is common for automotive wires. You may use tiny wires but you have to put a resistor at the starting point (on the VSP control unit) exactly what you said at the end.