EVSE upgrade unit for 2016 and 2017 Leafs. (Hi power? Huh)

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webeleafowners

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Joined
Oct 5, 2015
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Location
Okanagan Valley British Columbia
Hi all. We are considering getting the EVSE upgrade done to our stock EVSE. On their website it specifies that for the 2016/2017 units they are considered hi power and need a 30 amp breaker. Yet I get the impression that their max output is still 16 amps at 240 volts. How is that different from earlier units. Kinda confused.
 
webeleafowners said:
Ok. But how is this different from the earlier ones. Are you saing that the 2016/2017 Nissan EVSE's are capable of charging at 20 amps instead of 16 amps?

Thanks in advance.

John

Early Nissan OEM EVSEs were capable of 20 amps after upgrade. Middle year units ('14 - '16?) could only do 16 amps because of less robust construction. I think the 2017 units may be once again capable of 20 amps after upgrade, but don't know that - I think I saw it here.
 
No, 2015-2017 EVSEs can still only be upgraded to 16a, I believe it's because they are using only 14(or metric equiv) gauge wiring to the J1772 plug which maxes out at 16 amps continuous.
Note while it can also output 16a @ 120v you must purchase a special adapter cable($25 extra).
http://evseupgrade.com/?main_page=product_info&cPath=1&products_id=28
http://evseupgrade.com/?main_page=product_info&cPath=7&products_id=13
IMO while the pre '15 EVSE upgrade was a pretty decent price option for higher L2 charging the post '14 option isn't really price competitive, for <$300(sometimes < or =$250) once can purchase a similar in size 16a portable L1/L2 EVSE. JMO.
 
The MY 13-14 EVSEs are also upgraded to 20A, and I think they have the same cabling and external form factor as the current EVSE. So either the current electronics are inferior or the website has a typo for one EVSE or the other. A quick email to the vendor should clarify matters.

OP: the circuit has to be rated 25% higher than the continuous power draw. At 16A, that works out to 16*1.25 = 20A, and a power draw of 20A requires at least 20*1.25 = 25A. Outlets and breakers come in 20A and 30A varieties in that range.
 
SageBrush said:
The MY 13-14 EVSEs are also upgraded to 20A, and I think they have the same cabling and external form factor as the current EVSE. So either the current electronics are inferior or the website has a typo for one EVSE or the other. A quick email to the vendor should clarify matters.

OP: the circuit has to be rated 25% higher than the continuous power draw. At 16A, that works out to 16*1.25 = 20A, and a power draw of 20A requires at least 20*1.25 = 25A. Outlets and breakers come in 20A and 30A varieties in that range.

That makes sense.

Thank you.

I'll call them and see what's going on. We have a juicebox 40 but I would prefer to leave it mounted on the wall and still have a portable b
 
This is our setup. We occasionally charge both vehicles at the same time. The one on the left is for the smart (level 1) and I don't think it can be modified. From what I gather the Nissan EVSE has a pretty good reputation so we'll keep that in the car for emergencies but I would like to have the ability to charge faster and not take the Juicebox off the wall.

33729306515_ffe319bc1c_z.jpg
 
Originally, the 2011 units were upgraded to 120/240-volt operation, but remained limited to 12 amperes so they were fitted with L6-20 plugs. Upgrades of 2013 and 2014 units were fitted with L6-30 plugs because they were capable of a maximum of 20 amperes (adjustable down to 6 amperes in 1-amperes increments). Later upgrades of 2011 and 2012 units were also adjustable and capable of a maximum of 20 amperes so they were fitted with L6-30 plugs. 2015 through 2017 units are adjustable, but limited to a maximum of 16 amperes. Therefore, the 2015-2017 units could be fitted with L6-20 plugs, but it appears that EVSE Upgrade has standardized on L6-30 plugs so they only need to stock one size of plugs and adapters.

I am not sure when Nissan began adding temperature sensors to the plugs on their 120-volt EVSEs, but my 2015 has one. Therefore, it might be better to keep the EVSE that came with the car for charging on 120 volts only and obtain a used 2011 through 2014 unit to upgrade for 240 volts.

Several posts were added to the thread after I started typing last night that cover some of the information above, but I want to add that I have two EVSE Upgrade units and am very happy with them. I have an original 12-ampere 2011 upgrade which I purchased soon after complete units became available from EVSE Upgrade to keep at my workshop garage for faster charging there. After the crash, I took the original Nissan unit out of the 2011 because I did not want the body shop to charge the car and let it sit at full charge. I talked to a representative at EVSE Upgrade after getting the 2015 and decided to upgrade the 2011 unit to 20 amperes and keep the 2015 unit with its temperature sensor in the car (remains covered by Nissan warranty) for 120-volt charging. The 12-ampere maximum was fine with the 3 kW onboard charger in the 2011, but the 20-ampere maximum is much faster with the 6 kW charger in the 2015. I now keep the 12-ampere unit at home in case I ever need to charge from my portable generator.
 
OP: the circuit has to be rated 25% higher than the continuous power draw. At 16A, that works out to 16*1.25 = 20A, and a power draw of 20A requires at least 20*1.25 = 25A. Outlets and breakers come in 20A and 30A varieties in that range.

The duty cycle is actually 80%, not 75%, so the circuit must be rated 25% higher than the device draw. I think it tends to get rounded up. And you can find 25 amp breakers, it's just harder.
 
LeftieBiker said:
OP: the circuit has to be rated 25% higher than the continuous power draw. At 16A, that works out to 16*1.25 = 20A, and a power draw of 20A requires at least 20*1.25 = 25A. Outlets and breakers come in 20A and 30A varieties in that range.

The duty cycle is actually 80%, not 75%, so the circuit must be rated 20% higher than the device draw. I think it tends to get rounded up. And you can find 25 amp breakers, it's just harder.

Continuous load on a circuit is limited to 80% of the breaker and wire rating. This means that a circuit must be sized for 125% of the actual continuous load. Example: 24 ampere actual load X 125% = 30 amperes for circuit rating. 30 amperes X 80% = 24 amperes maximum allowable continuous load. Duty cycle is a different issue.
 
LeftieBiker said:
Yes, that's right. 'Duty cycle' is considered 100% for an EVSE. I used the wrong term.
You also missed the point:

Since code requires that continuous load be no more than 80% of circuit, if follows that circuit must be at least 1.25x continuous load. Check out the algebra:

If A = 0.8 B,
then B = A/0.8 = 1.25A
 
LeftieBiker said:
We're talking past each other.
We are not. You said
The duty cycle is actually 80%, not 75%, so the circuit must be rated 20% higher than the device draw.
This is incorrect, and I would like to see you correct your earlier post with an addendum.
As I show you above, 1/0.8 != 1.2, it equals 1.25
Or more specific to your error, if A is 80% of B, B IS NOT 120% of A. B is 125% of A

Algebra I, at your service.
 
Had you just quoted the line I messed up and noted the error I would have corrected that immediately. I didn't see it when you elaborated instead of just correcting. It's fixed now. When you've done a few hundred of these tedious posts in duplicate topics you'll better appreciate what us older-timers go through.
 
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