PLEASE NOTE THERE HAVE BEEN OTHER DISCUSSIONS SUGGESTING THAT THE 2012 LEAF NO LONGER HAS THIS BUTTON: viewtopic.php?f=4&t=6596 HOWEVER, ONE PERSON WITH A 2012 HAS PERFORMED INGINEER'S METHOD OF THIS HACK SUCCESSFULLY SUGGESTING THAT THE VSP MODULE IS UNCHANGED AND EITHER METHOD WOULD WORK.
SO HERE'S HOW YOU DO IT... PLEASE NOTE THAT IS RECOMMENDED YOU DISCONNECT THE 12V BATTERY NEGATIVE TERMINAL UNTIL YOU GET TO STEP 6 IN ORDER TO AVOID ACCIDENTALLY SHORTING WIRES. AFTER STEP 6 DISCONNECT IT AGAIN WHILE YOU FINISH UP.
Get yourself a PAC TR-7 Universal Trigger Module and some Wire Tap-In Squeeze Connectors, a plastic pry tool, a phillips screw driver, a pair of pliers and some electrical tape. The wire leads on the TR-7 are pre-stripped, all you have to do is pull the cut ends off - but don't bother, the tap-in connectors don't need them stripped.
Gain access to the VSP module by following the disassembly instructions turbo provided in this post: viewtopic.php?p=78791#p78791
When you're all done hooking everything up, just follow his steps in reverse. Note that getting the side panel back in was a bit of a pain in the a** so be careful. Slide the back part in first, then squeeze your hand in there and push the tabs into their corresponding slots. Once you do that, gently push the various clips into their holes (the bottom one may give you some trouble). After everything's lined up, just bang the side with your palm to snap it back in.
Carefully slice open the black plastic wrap covering the wires leading to the VSP connector and peel it back out of the way so you have unfettered access to the wires.
As you look at the back of the VSP module connector, with the clip facing up, the pins are numbered as follows (with an empty pin in the lower right):
Code: Select all
8 | 7| 6| 5| 4| 3| 2| 1
You will be using pin 1 (black wire), pin 5 (green wire), pin 11 (darker gray wire with red stripes or possibly gray with no stripes) and pin 13 (blue wire). Wire colors may potentially vary between different models, etc. Find them and separate the bundle of wires so you can easily identify them. You should have always on 12v dc power between pins 1 & 13, and ignition on 12v dc power between pins 1 & 11. If you do not, abort the mission and post back here to let us know.
Using the tap-in connectors (follow the instructions on the package if you're not familiar with how to use them), splice the TR-7 black wire to the VSP black wire (pin 1) and the TR-7 red wire to the VSP blue wire (pin 13). Gently pull back a bit of the insulation on the TR-7 brown wire to expose a bit of the wire.
Take a read through the TR-7 Instructions Manual. Pay particular attention to page 3's programming instructions. It looks intimidating, but it's not that bad. You want to program mode 9 (doorlock pulse generator), option 2 (no unlock). Now that the first two TR-7 wires are hooked up, it has power and is ready to program. Flip the programming switch on the side to ON. Tap the exposed brown wire to a piece of the bare metal in the glovebox compartment NINE times (be sure not to bounce or it will count too many taps). The light on the TR-7 will flash with each tap. After you have nine taps, stop and wait three seconds. The TR-7 will echo back 9 flashes to confirm it got it right. If it doesn't flash 9 times, turn the programming switch off, wait a few seconds and do this step again. If it does flash 9 times, immediately tap the brown wire two more times to set option 2. As with the round, the TR-7 will flash as you tap. Wait three seconds and it will echo back your two taps followed by a series of rapid flashes to confirm programming is complete. If everything went right, turn the programming switch back off and move on. If it didn't, turn the programming switch off, wait a few seconds and do this step again until you get it right.
Again, using the tap-in connectors, splice in the TR-7 white wire to the VSP green wire (pin 5) and the TR-7 green wire to the VSP darker grey wire with the red stripes (pin 11). Tape up the remaining unused TR-7 wires to prevent accidental contact with other wires/metal.
Power on your LEAF. By the time the startup sequence finishes, the VSP switch's OFF light should illuminate. If it doesn't, go back and figure out where you went wrong. Because this hack actually simulates a button press, you can still push the button again to turn the VSP back ON for those occasions when you do actually want it.
Pull the protective black wrap you peeled back into place and tape it all up. Screw the VSP module back into place and tuck the TR-7 into the little loop created by the wiring in between the wiring and the bracket. Put your glovebox back together.
Pour yourself a beer and celebrate your success! If you're good, you can probably do this in 30 minutes. If not, it'll be more like 45 to an hour.
NOTE: I disconnected the wiring harness while doing this, although it isn't necessary. I had previously changed the vehicle startup chime to OFF, but it was back on after doing this (probably because of the disconnect). I tried turning it back OFF, but it wouldn't take until I changed it to some other sound, then back to OFF. If this happens to you, just toggle the song to something else, power the car off/on, then set it back to where you want it.
My orignal post and the original discussion follows below:
GeekEV wrote:I've seen it talked about in various threads, but I have yet to see a dedicated thread on the subject of disabling the Vehicle Sound for Pedestrians (VSP, aka "the noisemaker"). I was wondering if this was a simple single-pole switch that could be shorted out, so I popped the panel off to take a closer look. Unfortunately, it's not that simple, there's about 5 wires running into that switch. I tried to disconnect the cable, to see what that would do, but I couldn't get the panel completely off so space was too constrained and the cable was in there too tight for me to get it out. I also thought that maybe wedging the switch in the pressed position would do the trick, but no dice...
Can someone out there with the service manual look up this switch and see if the wiring is identified and where it connects to? Come on guys, let's figure this out!