powersurge
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Re: How To: Reduction Gear Oil Change

Mon Jun 11, 2018 5:21 am

dm33 wrote:You should never have to replace this oil. There are lots of lubricants all over a car that you don't need to change. This is one of them. Only if there's a leak. The notion of changing this oil is a left over from having an ICE. Doesn't apply. Likewise you don't need to change oil in the engine/motor. The bearings are lubricated for life unless there's an issue.


Forgive me for being a little harsh, but it must be said for the sake of the other posters....

You really should not be giving anyone any advice on NOT changing fluids on cars, as your lack of mechanical experience is so blatant...

1) Car companies with all cars today have conveniently "forgotten" to place antifreeze, brake fluid, power steering, and transmission fluid changes on their "maintenance schedules", or even say that the fluids are for "lifetime". That is another way of saying that in 10-12 years of use (when the car has 100K miles and the car breaks down), you will write the car off and buy a new one. If you want to keep a car going to 200K+ miles, you will need to change ALL fluids.

2) there is no "lifetime" fluid on a car. ALL fluids deteriorate in their protection properties or collect harmful substances that need to be removed. Transmission fluid can go longer than oil changes because it is a sealed system, and does not collect byproducts of gas combustion. It also does not reach high temperatures that will degrade it. HOWEVER, transmission fluid lubricates all the gears and rods that spin at very high speeds, AND collect fine metal particles from the wearing of the mechanism. That is why they put a magnet in there to collect the steel shavings.. (PS - that fine paste on the tip of the bolt IS steel shavings). So, after 1000s of miles, you must change the engine oil and transmission fluid (even if it looks good) to remove the harmful metal shavings that will otherwise chew up the parts of the transmission.

Tunamelt
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Re: How To: Reduction Gear Oil Change

Mon Jun 11, 2018 8:49 am

Do be fair, on old Automatic transmissions with many miles, if the user has never replaced the fluid, you're better off not replacing it as the fluid couplings now depends on the more viscous fluids to turn the gears.

powersurge
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Re: How To: Reduction Gear Oil Change

Tue Jun 12, 2018 5:13 am

Tunamelt wrote:Do be fair, on old Automatic transmissions with many miles, if the user has never replaced the fluid, you're better off not replacing it as the fluid couplings now depends on the more viscous fluids to turn the gears.


Yes, but that argument does not hold on a Leaf or a CVT transmission. On these cars, even if you have never changed the fluid, you can only help the car if you change it. you need to get out the junk along with the old fluid....

Tsiah
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Re: How To: Reduction Gear Oil Change

Fri Jun 15, 2018 11:10 am

LeftieBiker wrote:If there is a problem with reusing the metal gasket it will likely occur at least a few months from now, in the form of the plug loosening. I'd have used thread lock if I had to reuse the gasket.

If anything you'd have a leak. I reuse the crush washer once or twice before replacing it (because I always forget to get a new one before draining the oil. :P ) I take it off, wipe it down and flip it over when I reinstall it, then properly torque the plug. Never had an issue. If the washer is severely deformed from someone over torquing it, then it won't seal.
As long as the plug is tight, it's not going to fall out.

Tsiah
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Re: How To: Reduction Gear Oil Change

Fri Jun 15, 2018 11:11 am

Tunamelt wrote:Do be fair, on old Automatic transmissions with many miles, if the user has never replaced the fluid, you're better off not replacing it as the fluid couplings now depends on the more viscous fluids to turn the gears.

On a very old automatic (any automatic for that matter...) you don't want to FLUSH the transmission. A drain and fill isn't going to hurt it.

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IssacZachary
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Re: How To: Reduction Gear Oil Change

Thu Jun 21, 2018 5:41 pm

powersurge wrote:1) Car companies with all cars today have conveniently "forgotten" to place antifreeze, brake fluid...

2) there is no "lifetime" fluid on a car. ALL fluids deteriorate in their protection properties or collect harmful substances that need to be removed. Transmission fluid can go longer than oil changes because it is a sealed system, and does not collect byproducts of gas combustion.


1) I thought that Nissan says to replace the brake fluid every one to two years and the antifreeze at 150,000 miles. But still, there are other "forgotten" fluids.

2) Transmissions and differentials actually have a breather somewhere, so they're not truly sealed. As air expands and contracts due to changing ambient temperatures, barometric pressures and changing in altitude, dirt eventually finds it's way into the oil through that breather. Either that or there is a little filter where air can go in and out but not dirt. But after a while those can become clogged up, sometimes rather quickly in certain conditions, and then you build up pressure in the transmission or differential housing and lose your seals and leak oil.
2013 SL SOLD :cry:
2013 Toyota Avalon Hybrid CURRENT

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Nubo
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Re: How To: Reduction Gear Oil Change

Fri Jun 22, 2018 2:14 pm

estomax wrote:some preliminary results are in over the last 3 weeks of driving and i seem to be settling in at 3.9 miles/kwh vs the 3.7 that i had averaged for the month and a half that i reset before that. Ambient temperatures here in the Seattle area have been about level.

this is obviously not very scientific but there are some single digit efficiency gains possibly to be had by swapping to the redline D6 fluid over stock fluid.


This is encouraging. Everything still running fine?
Since I was going to change anyway now that I'm out of warranty I think I'll try that Redline D6. Five percent is a pretty decent improvement.

Do you recall what length of hose was required?
I noticed you're still working with polymers.

estomax
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Re: How To: Reduction Gear Oil Change

Fri Jun 22, 2018 3:02 pm

i had something in the 3 foot range for the hose. everything is still fine, 6 months and about ~8k miles later.

the efficiency improvement was not scientific to say the least but if you do it and can correlate a similar effect then that's worth something
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Nubo
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Re: How To: Reduction Gear Oil Change

Sun Jul 08, 2018 4:37 pm

In case anyone wants a source for the crush washers
https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B072627HB9/
pack of 10 but cheaper than getting 2 from Nissan and seem to be a common size so maybe useful for other vehicles
I noticed you're still working with polymers.

GerryAZ
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Re: How To: Reduction Gear Oil Change

Sun Jul 08, 2018 9:41 pm

A Nissan dealer sold me the wrong sealing washers so I will wait until tomorrow to refill. The correct size is 18 mm ID and 24 mm OD (flat aluminum sealing washer). The dealer sold me copper crush washers that were only about 1/2-inch ID even after I asked for confirmation of size and material since they looked small and I expected aluminum. The old oil was black and there was a lot of debris stuck to both magnets with slightly less than 64k miles so I will be changing the oil more frequently in the future. I will try to post some photos later.
Gerry
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Silver LEAF 2015 SL purchased 2/7/2015

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