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Re: How To: Reduction Gear Oil Change

Posted: Mon Jun 11, 2018 5:21 am
by powersurge
dm33 wrote:You should never have to replace this oil. There are lots of lubricants all over a car that you don't need to change. This is one of them. Only if there's a leak. The notion of changing this oil is a left over from having an ICE. Doesn't apply. Likewise you don't need to change oil in the engine/motor. The bearings are lubricated for life unless there's an issue.


Forgive me for being a little harsh, but it must be said for the sake of the other posters....

You really should not be giving anyone any advice on NOT changing fluids on cars, as your lack of mechanical experience is so blatant...

1) Car companies with all cars today have conveniently "forgotten" to place antifreeze, brake fluid, power steering, and transmission fluid changes on their "maintenance schedules", or even say that the fluids are for "lifetime". That is another way of saying that in 10-12 years of use (when the car has 100K miles and the car breaks down), you will write the car off and buy a new one. If you want to keep a car going to 200K+ miles, you will need to change ALL fluids.

2) there is no "lifetime" fluid on a car. ALL fluids deteriorate in their protection properties or collect harmful substances that need to be removed. Transmission fluid can go longer than oil changes because it is a sealed system, and does not collect byproducts of gas combustion. It also does not reach high temperatures that will degrade it. HOWEVER, transmission fluid lubricates all the gears and rods that spin at very high speeds, AND collect fine metal particles from the wearing of the mechanism. That is why they put a magnet in there to collect the steel shavings.. (PS - that fine paste on the tip of the bolt IS steel shavings). So, after 1000s of miles, you must change the engine oil and transmission fluid (even if it looks good) to remove the harmful metal shavings that will otherwise chew up the parts of the transmission.

Re: How To: Reduction Gear Oil Change

Posted: Mon Jun 11, 2018 8:49 am
by Tunamelt
Do be fair, on old Automatic transmissions with many miles, if the user has never replaced the fluid, you're better off not replacing it as the fluid couplings now depends on the more viscous fluids to turn the gears.

Re: How To: Reduction Gear Oil Change

Posted: Tue Jun 12, 2018 5:13 am
by powersurge
Tunamelt wrote:Do be fair, on old Automatic transmissions with many miles, if the user has never replaced the fluid, you're better off not replacing it as the fluid couplings now depends on the more viscous fluids to turn the gears.


Yes, but that argument does not hold on a Leaf or a CVT transmission. On these cars, even if you have never changed the fluid, you can only help the car if you change it. you need to get out the junk along with the old fluid....

Re: How To: Reduction Gear Oil Change

Posted: Fri Jun 15, 2018 11:10 am
by Tsiah
LeftieBiker wrote:If there is a problem with reusing the metal gasket it will likely occur at least a few months from now, in the form of the plug loosening. I'd have used thread lock if I had to reuse the gasket.

If anything you'd have a leak. I reuse the crush washer once or twice before replacing it (because I always forget to get a new one before draining the oil. :P ) I take it off, wipe it down and flip it over when I reinstall it, then properly torque the plug. Never had an issue. If the washer is severely deformed from someone over torquing it, then it won't seal.
As long as the plug is tight, it's not going to fall out.

Re: How To: Reduction Gear Oil Change

Posted: Fri Jun 15, 2018 11:11 am
by Tsiah
Tunamelt wrote:Do be fair, on old Automatic transmissions with many miles, if the user has never replaced the fluid, you're better off not replacing it as the fluid couplings now depends on the more viscous fluids to turn the gears.

On a very old automatic (any automatic for that matter...) you don't want to FLUSH the transmission. A drain and fill isn't going to hurt it.