Blink J1772 Cable Repair

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GlennD

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Joined
Dec 18, 2011
Messages
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I have been buying supposedly new Blink cables on Ebay. This one was obviously a used one changed out for overheating. The brown wire looked overheated and it took a lit of flux to get a good connection.

Here is a few photos. I assume you will know what you are doing so no step by step.











 
Thanks Glenn, I should have took pictures when I fixed my SPX cable. Where did you get the 5 point security bits?
 
pchilds said:
Thanks Glenn, I should have took pictures when I fixed my SPX cable. Where did you get the 5 point security bits?

I had to buy the whole 1/4 inch set from Ebay. I forget the cost but it was between 20 to 30 dollars. Such a waste since I really only need 1 bit.
 
Phil, I looked up the set.

Assuming the connector is not melted repairing it is far cheaper than replacing it.

http://www.ebay.com/itm/5-POINT-TORX-STAR-TAMPER-PROOF-SECURITY-BIT-SOCKET-SET-/370404796441?pt=US_Srewdrivers_Nut_Drivers&hash=item563dd8a819" onclick="window.open(this.href);return false;
 
Ingineer pointed out in separate thread that when the crimp has developed oxidation it is impossible to solder adequately.
And that soldering this size conductor creates stress concentration that will ultimately cause failure even if you were starting with new stuff. Plus the soldered connection runs hotter than a crimped connection that is properly crimped.
See http://www.mynissanleaf.com/viewtopic.php?f=26&t=10749&start=320#p265233" onclick="window.open(this.href);return false;.

This may be cheap but seems like a bad idea if you trust the input from Ingineer.
And unfortunately some people are sending other people to this bad idea.
 
Using external flux it is certainly possible to solder the pins. As far as stress on the wire the pins are at least eight inches away from the cable's stress relief. There is no way the cable will put stress on the pins.

If you feel this is not an acceptable repair by all means replace the cable. Currently on Ebay you can get a brand new 16 ft Yazaki 30A cable for $105 plus $20 for shipping. From Quick Charge Power you can get a 25 foot 40A cable for $204 shipped.
 
Can anybody say what metal(s) the coupling pins are made of? Are they silver plated copper or perhaps nickel plated copper (or something else)? I saw a technical advisory a couple of years ago that seemed to suggest both have been used by J1772 manufacturers, but that the former was much preferred over the latter for unstated reasons. Can this be part of the problem?

If you look at crimps/connectors used for 50a electric range cords/plugs/receptacles, the question arises as to what does it take to have a sufficiently sound electrical termination when currents are, say, no more than 30a as for these Blink EVSEs?

It also seems clear that mechanically mating electrical plugs/jacks wear out over time, suffer corrosion, etc so what is necessary to prevent/mitigate overheating problems in this area?
 
Of all the cables I have tested, the Rema cable, that I soldered, runs the coolest. At 32 amps the temperature was 101 f, after 1 1/2 hours.
 
If anyone has a connector that melted the pins, but still has the outer case intact, then I would like to buy it. I have the old Blink connector that I cracked the case and broke the locking pin and I would like to fix it. I do not need the cable or pins. Thank you.
 
In order to prevent a new crimpted connection from rotting you could apply die electric grease to the wire crimp union. This would fill the gap between wire and pin and keep air and moisture away.
Soldering seems like a perfect solution to a bad crimp. I don't imagine the wire flexing directly behind the pin inside the plastic housing.
 
camasleaf said:
If anyone has a connector that melted the pins, but still has the outer case intact, then I would like to buy it. I have the old Blink connector that I cracked the case and broke the locking pin and I would like to fix it. I do not need the cable or pins. Thank you.

Worst case there is a guy on Ebay selling the cables for a fixed price plus make offer. Until the Yazaki cables became available I was buying them for a $100 offer. The five I have purchased soldered up fine. One of them was the basis for the photos in the first post.

Also Quick Charge Power sells the Dostar J1772 connector for under $100. I would guess that lacking the proper crimp tool you would have to solder the pins.
 
GlennD said:
camasleaf said:
If anyone has a connector that melted the pins, but still has the outer case intact, then I would like to buy it. I have the old Blink connector that I cracked the case and broke the locking pin and I would like to fix it. I do not need the cable or pins. Thank you.

Worst case there is a guy on Ebay selling the cables for a fixed price plus make offer. Until the Yazaki cables became available I was buying them for a $100 offer. The five I have purchased soldered up fine. One of them was the basis for the photos in the first post.

Also Quick Charge Power sells the Dostar J1772 connector for under $100. I would guess that lacking the proper crimp tool you would have to solder the pins.

My mistake. I was confused about the Quick Charge price. The J1772 handle is $119.
 
GlennD said:
GlennD said:
camasleaf said:
If anyone has a connector that melted the pins, but still has the outer case intact, then I would like to buy it. I have the old Blink connector that I cracked the case and broke the locking pin and I would like to fix it. I do not need the cable or pins. Thank you.

Worst case there is a guy on Ebay selling the cables for a fixed price plus make offer. Until the Yazaki cables became available I was buying them for a $100 offer. The five I have purchased soldered up fine. One of them was the basis for the photos in the first post.

Also Quick Charge Power sells the Dostar J1772 connector for under $100. I would guess that lacking the proper crimp tool you would have to solder the pins.

My mistake. I was confused about the Quick Charge price. The J1772 handle is $119.

I just need the case as I cracked it. I have the cable and the pins are crimped already to the cable. I bought a new Leviton cable and connector and fixed the EVSE in the garage, I also have the EVSE upgrade. Now I am just thinking of making a portable 30A EVSE and if I can get the Blink connector outer shell for cheap, then I do not need to buy a new cable.
 
You should be able to find someone with a meltdown. The contact insert is completely separate from the outer shell. You might pm Tony Williams and and what happened to his. I think he was the first one to publicly document the problem. He showed photos of his damaged RAV4 EV and Blink cable.
 
GlennD said:
You should be able to find someone with a meltdown. The contact insert is completely separate from the outer shell. You might pm Tony Williams and and what happened to his. I think he was the first one to publicly document the problem. He showed photos of his damaged RAV4 EV and Blink cable.

Link to Rav4 EV forum about melted Blink / Rema equipment


Link to LEAF forum about melted Blink / Rema equipment


Sept 3, 2013 - UPDATE: Rema charging handle strikes again and melts the pins on a Nissan LEAF


Link to Schneider EVSE melting and difficult to remove




Blinkj1772burntPinB.jpg




Blinkj1772burntPinA.jpg
 
Any recommendation for the flux/solder in this application? Will a 25W soldering iron suffice or should get I get something more substantial?

A proper solution will be put in place (a new cable or EVSE) when my next EV will be pulling more than 16A, for now just want a temporary fix as the plastic becomes borderline acceptable to the touch with summer temps in my garage even when charging at 3.3kW.
 
TomT said:
No one is ever always right, and there are often valid differences of opinion... In this case, I also believe that, done properly, soldering fine.

TimLee said:
You disagree with Ingineer :shock: :? :shock: :?
Properly soldered is clearly better than poorly crimped :D

I don't have the expertise and haven't done sufficient research to fully know the acceptability of soldered.
Just thought it was best to point out some differences of opinion do exist.
 
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