I had this problem initially with a Blink WE-30 CIRE from eBay. We had this type of problem before when the power leads ("hot" and "neutral") were reversed in 120V installations on another EVSE. So, I reversed the power connections to the Blink and voila, no more RSD (Red Screen of Death) with "ground fault error" display and buzzing. Not sure whether this is a site wiring problem or not.
This was done as a test at our church where 240V is readily accessible and we hope to get this installed soon. I also did the same test at home on 120vac; again the Blink (WE30-CIRE) goes to RSD unless the "hot" lead on 120vac was connected to the longer blade on the 6-50 plug. BUT,
when run on 120vac at 12a current draw the contactor rattles and does not make good contact. At 8a the unit works on 120vac. As mentioned elsewhere in this forum, the contactor is NOT designed to work with 120vac.
Though the Blink Linux initialization now completes, it freezes every time on the "Welcome to Blink" logo + "Please Wait..." at the bottom of the screen. We don't NEED
the EVSE to do much more than just charge an attached EV, so I also lobotomized the Blink as described in a prior post in this forum and here on YouTube
and voila again!
Now we have a big, dumb EVSE, for a 240vac circuit. We are putting aside the debugging of the Linux controller for a later day.
Thanks for all the people who have done research on this problem. My self-test faults finally could not be reset by a power cycle. I tried checking the crimps, moving the CT, and finally had to lobotomize it.
I tried checking all the crimps. I found a few stray wires on the right side of the junction block and theorized they could be bleeding a tiny bit of current to the grounding plate behind it so I redid that. I don't understand how you can solder those because there's not enough room to get a soldered wire into the block without cutting some of the wires. Both are bad ideas because solder doesn't conduct as well as copper and you more wires is better. I researched and found that the industry standard for high wattage applications (like your house main supply or a wind turbine) is to simply crimp the wires into a block.
I moved the CT all the way to the right and zip tied it.
It seemed to work fine, but a few hours later coming back to an idle charger it immediately threw the self-test fault. I then lobotomized it by removing the blue cable from the top & bottom and it seems to work fine now as a dumb charger.
I put all this into a Youtube Video so you can see exactly what is being talked about: https://youtu.be/e8yELGmywaY