Mods for the Blink EVSE ! (was Fix)

[TimLee]

^^^ Link for image file:
viewtopic.php?f=43&t=13957&hilit=card&start=10#p331354

A later topic link is here:
viewtopic.php?f=43&t=16572&hilit=blink+software#p409479

I have not done it yet, but several reported it worked.
Is supposed to fit a 2 GB card, but one reported they could not get it to fit and used 4 GB card.

Some recommendations on software to use to install image are later in the topic at:
viewtopic.php?f=43&t=13957&hilit=card&start=20#p400996

I never saw a finalized complete firmware rewrite.
I recall a separate topic that gave a lot of information, but it was a starting point.
Unfortunatrly could not find the link yet.

[wmcbrine]

2) Back in 2011 'whoami' described the first steps of creating superior firmware to that supplied by Ecotality. He called his version 'Wink' and expressed his hope that Ecotality would accept it as open-source software and push it out to everyone. Was this 'Wink' project completed?

Unfortunately he disappeared soon after that, without (AFAIK) having posted anything of the project but pictures.

[MarkInCNC]

Has anyone tried running the Blink WE-30CIRE EVSE on 120VAC ? We are rebuilding at home and it will be a while before a new 240vac line is put in. The manual says nothing about 120vac, but the label on the unit shows 208-240vac/120vac.

I understand I could make this a "dumb EVSE" but has anyone successfully operated the logic board and EVSE function of the whole unit off 120vac?

Thanks!

Here is a link to an image of the EVSE label: http://imgur.com/oVAmiCx

[wmcbrine]

Here is a link to an image of the EVSE label: https://drive.google.com/open?id=0B2bUC6vANkKRUXRRdlRQS1l2a0k

It says "you need permission". (Guys, seriously, Google Drive is not for sharing pics on forums. Use Imgur or something.)

[MarkInCNC]

Hmm drive permissions seem to be set for any to read. So how do I upload an image? The img function here only allows me to ads a url.

[wmcbrine]

Go to http://imgur.com/ . Upload it there.

(Ignore the stuff about signing up, unless you really want to. You can just hit "upload images" and go.)

[MarkInCNC]

Tx, nice site to have around, so changed link to http://imgur.com/oVAmiCx & used the form: http://i.imgur.com/oVAmiCx.jpg to embed!

[camasleaf]

Unlikely the Blink will work at 120V. Mine has the same label. The contactor coil is 208/240V. I do not believe there is a way to make that contactor close at 120V.

[MarkInCNC]

I had this problem initially with a Blink WE-30 CIRE from eBay. We had this type of problem before when the power leads ("hot" and "neutral") were reversed in 120V installations on another EVSE. So, I reversed the power connections to the Blink and voila, no more RSD (Red Screen of Death) with "ground fault error" display and buzzing. Not sure whether this is a site wiring problem or not.

This was done as a test at our church where 240V is readily accessible and we hope to get this installed soon. I also did the same test at home on 120vac; again the Blink (WE30-CIRE) goes to RSD unless the "hot" lead on 120vac was connected to the longer blade on the 6-50 plug. BUT, when run on 120vac at 12a current draw the contactor rattles and does not make good contact. At 8a the unit works on 120vac. As mentioned elsewhere in this forum, the contactor is NOT designed to work with 120vac.

Though the Blink Linux initialization now completes, it freezes every time on the "Welcome to Blink" logo + "Please Wait..." at the bottom of the screen. We don't NEED the EVSE to do much more than just charge an attached EV, so I also lobotomized the Blink as described in a prior post in this forum and here on YouTube and voila again!

Now we have a big, dumb EVSE, for a 240vac circuit. We are putting aside the debugging of the Linux controller for a later day.

Thanks for all the people who have done research on this problem. My self-test faults finally could not be reset by a power cycle. I tried checking the crimps, moving the CT, and finally had to lobotomize it.

I tried checking all the crimps. I found a few stray wires on the right side of the junction block and theorized they could be bleeding a tiny bit of current to the grounding plate behind it so I redid that. I don't understand how you can solder those because there's not enough room to get a soldered wire into the block without cutting some of the wires. Both are bad ideas because solder doesn't conduct as well as copper and you more wires is better. I researched and found that the industry standard for high wattage applications (like your house main supply or a wind turbine) is to simply crimp the wires into a block.

I moved the CT all the way to the right and zip tied it.

It seemed to work fine, but a few hours later coming back to an idle charger it immediately threw the self-test fault. I then lobotomized it by removing the blue cable from the top & bottom and it seems to work fine now as a dumb charger.

I put all this into a Youtube Video so you can see exactly what is being talked about: https://youtu.be/e8yELGmywaY

[gbarry42]

I got my first ground fault screen two days ago. It was just after plugging in, and it started beeping (a nice way to describe the screech it makes) continuously, with the touch screen unresponsive. After pulling the power and plugging it back in, it booted up and worked normally. I'm glad it has a plug on it! We shall see if this was a one-time occurrence; this is the first time since it was replaced in the first days of 2012. No one will care, but by posting I'll have a record of what happened and when it first started.