Charging from a Typical Dryer Plug

I don't see an all in one cable, the 10-50 seems to be a somewhat orphan plug. You could easily make one though(if you're so inclined).
Purchase:
https://www.amazon.com/Legrand-Pass-Seymour-3861CC5-30-Amp-250-volt/dp/B000BPFZHM/ref=sr_1_1?ie=UTF8&qid=1495797142&sr=8-1&keywords=nema+10-50p
and:
A 1' piece of 10 gauge 3-wire stranded cable and wire it to a 6-30r:
https://www.amazon.com/dp/B0095GKC8U/ref=sxr_rr_xsim_2?pf_rd_m=ATVPDKIKX0DER&pf_rd_p=3008523062&pd_rd_wg=aXXXC&pf_rd_r=X8272DM8BN6HY9DZ8MMZ&pf_rd_s=desktop-rhs-carousels&pf_rd_t=301&pd_rd_i=B0095GKC8U&pd_rd_w=xYRFV&pf_rd_i=nema+10-50p&pd_rd_r=QW9QDA1MF1VYEP379SE0&ie=UTF8&qid=1495797142&sr=2
Home Depot sells bulk cable for wiring the two together, hot to hot, hot to hot and finally ground/neutral to ground. Easy peasy, probably not much more than $30 for parts, much cheaper than replacing the outlet/wiring.
It would cost a bit more but you'd have a molded end on the L6-30r and you wouldn't have to purchase the bulk wiring, just cut off the L6-30p and wire on the 10-50p plug above, would add ~$12 to the total cost:
https://www.amazon.com/NEMA-L6-30-Extension-Power-Cord/dp/B00H3PM3D2/ref=sr_1_45?ie=UTF8&qid=1495799931&sr=8-45&keywords=nema+l6-30+extension+cord

Hey Jeff, is the bonded neutral/ground safe on a 10-50? ClipperCreek seems to recommend against it:

Q: Does ClipperCreek offer an EVSE that can plug into a NEMA 10-30 receptacle?

A. ClipperCreek does not manufacture any stations with the NEMA 10-30 plug as the corresponding receptacle (outlet) for this plug type is typically wired with a neutral wire as opposed to an earth ground and all of our models require an earth ground connection in order to operate properly.

Additionally, when charging a vehicle the ground is passed through to the vehicle from the station for safety earth grounding during charging. If a neutral is used instead of a ground the neutral could generate a charge on the vehicle chassis, creating a potential safety hazard upon contact with the vehicle during or after charging. For these safety reasons we do not offer an EVSE with the NEMA 10-30 plug and it would not be advised to utilize any of our EVSEs with a NEMA 10-30 adapter. If you have a NEMA 10-30 receptacle you would like to use for a ClipperCreek EVSE it would be recommended to have an electrician re-purpose the NEMA 10-30 receptacle into a NEMA 14-30 or a NEMA L6-30 receptacle.

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alozzy said:

Hey Jeff, is the bonded neutral/ground safe on a 10-50? ClipperCreek seems to recommend against it:

Q: Does ClipperCreek offer an EVSE that can plug into a NEMA 10-30 receptacle?

A. ClipperCreek does not manufacture any stations with the NEMA 10-30 plug as the corresponding receptacle (outlet) for this plug type is typically wired with a neutral wire as opposed to an earth ground and all of our models require an earth ground connection in order to operate properly.

Additionally, when charging a vehicle the ground is passed through to the vehicle from the station for safety earth grounding during charging. If a neutral is used instead of a ground the neutral could generate a charge on the vehicle chassis, creating a potential safety hazard upon contact with the vehicle during or after charging. For these safety reasons we do not offer an EVSE with the NEMA 10-30 plug and it would not be advised to utilize any of our EVSEs with a NEMA 10-30 adapter. If you have a NEMA 10-30 receptacle you would like to use for a ClipperCreek EVSE it would be recommended to have an electrician re-purpose the NEMA 10-30 receptacle into a NEMA 14-30 or a NEMA L6-30 receptacle.

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Since basically all home panels bond the neutral and ground wires to the same bar I see no issue using a 10-xx outlet. Things were a bit iffy for using the 10-xx outlet for devices that also needed a neutral such as a stove(for the light or convenience outlet) as in that case if you lost your ground/neutral connection in the panel you could potentially have 120v on the ground/neutral wire, but even that was given the go ahead by inspectors, at least as long as the 10-xx outlet was in common use. I personally have used such outlets(with a outlet adapter) many times with no issues, for one thing our EVSEs don't use the neutral wire so no potential voltage would be present Of course if one was overly cautious they'd rip all the 10-xx outlets out of the world and replace them with the 6-xx or 14-xx outlets, but my feeling is if it worked and was approved at one time, thats good enough for me

Awesome, thanks for the education!

jjeff said:

Since basically all home panels bond the neutral and ground wires to the same bar I see no issue using a 10-xx outlet.

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This is true at the main panel only. At any subpanels, neutrals and grounds are kept separate.

So using a 10-xx receptacle as a 6-xx receptacle should be safe if the it is the only receptacle on a branch circuit originating at the panel with the main service disconnect. Otherwise, best to rewire the circuit.

Cheers, Wayne

This is true at the main panel only. At any subpanels, neutrals and grounds are kept separate.

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Yet another way in which my house was wired marginally. There are two sub panels, and both use mixed ground/neutral bars.

LeftieBiker said:

Yet another way in which my house was wired marginally. There are two sub panels, and both use mixed ground/neutral bars.

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Do the feeders to the subpanels have a separate ground and neutral? If so, it shouldn't be too hard to fix this, and it is worth doing as it is a safety issue.

BTW, prior to sometime in the mid-2000s, for feeders to detached buildings, it was OK to omit a ground and use the neutral for the ground in the detached building's first panel (just the way it is done at the main building's first panel), if there were no other metallic paths between the two buildings (such as a phone line, metal water line, etc.)

Cheers, Wayne

Hopefully AnthonyStrode is still monitoring this thread...

wwhitney said:

LeftieBiker said:

Yet another way in which my house was wired marginally. There are two sub panels, and both use mixed ground/neutral bars.

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Do the feeders to the subpanels have a separate ground and neutral? If so, it shouldn't be too hard to fix this, and it is worth doing as it is a safety issue.

BTW, prior to sometime in the mid-2000s, for feeders to detached buildings, it was OK to omit a ground and use the neutral for the ground in the detached building's first panel (just the way it is done at the main building's first panel), if there were no other metallic paths between the two buildings (such as a phone line, metal water line, etc.)

Cheers, Wayne

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I plan to have both panels replaced anyway - they are both fuse boxes. The feeders do have ground wires.