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Deolloz said:
I would like to know, do I have to have the 3g modem upgrade in order to get the Sirius traffic subscription, or can I have that without having 3g? Thanks for the tip(s) about the maps -- at this point in time, I'll probably stick with using my cell phone for most navigational purposes. What effect, if any, does charging a cell phone have on range? With a limited range in the ~40 mile area, I'm hesitant to do even little things like charge my cell phone while driving!

You do not need the 3G modem upgrade for SiriusXM Traffic since it just uses the satellite system. You do need the modem upgrade to get updated public charger information on the navigation system and to use the remote climate control activation and other EV Connect (CarWings) features. Cellular phone charging has absolutely no impact to range so don't worry about it.

To answer some of your other questions: The maximum cold inflation pressure of the OEM Bridgestone Ecopias is 44 psi and I highly recommend that you run them at that for best handling, wet/dry traction, tire wear, and range. The A/C is very efficient and has minimal impact on range unless the heating elements in the little hot water tank are activated (this is another reason to implement the heater cutoff modification).
 
LeftieBiker said:
I THINK that the max pressure for the OEM down-rated Ecopias (aka "Ecrapias") is 44 or 46psi.

I originally posted that 44 was the max pressure, but took it out as I wasn't sure.
 
davewill said:
Deolloz said:
Leftie Biker, so it's safe to inflate the tires up to 40-42? I believe my tires on the car are "run flats," I was told there "wasn't spare tire" in the vehicle. Is that true?

I don't know where/how to install a heater on/off switch? Is that a modification that has to get added to the car by a mechanic or the dealer?

Thank YOu.
They aren't run flats unless someone has changed them to be so, which is highly unlikely as most run flats are low profile and would have needed new rims. They also would have badly affected range of the car. You don't have a spare because Nissan decided that it wasn't necessary. Some people have found compatible temporary spares at junk yards to carry around, but I always figured that having AAA was good enough. If I lived in a rural area, I might feel differently.

The maximum inflation pressure for the tire should be stamped on the sidewall of the tire.
I've got Bridgestone Driveguard runflats on my "11 on the original factory rims. The mileage only took about a .5 m/KWH hit. It is worth it having the piece of mind that I don't have to do a tire swap or call a wrecker in the event of a flat. I run them at 40 psi year round.
 
GerryAZ said:
4. The heater cut off switch is a necessary modification because the heating elements in the little hot water tank are activated whenever the HVAC is on if ambient temperature is lower than 60 F or the set point, if higher (even just for ventilation). I actually ran the 2011 dead on my way home once when I had ventilation on (without heat) and the temperature was low enough to activate the 5 kW heating elements. I did not notice the extra power draw until it was too late and ran the car dead about 1/2 mile from home. I then made a temporary modification by putting a resistor in place of the liquid temperature sensor. I would have purchased the plug-and-play kit from Tor as a permanent fix if the car had not been totaled.

Gerry,

A question about the heater control module switch. Does it have any benefit during the hot summer months, or is it only helpful during cold winter months? have already purchased the kit online, just wanting to see if I should install it now or if I could wait a few months. Thank you Gerry!
 
Deolloz said:
Gerry,

A question about the heater control module switch. Does it have any benefit during the hot summer months, or is it only helpful during cold winter months? have already purchased the kit online, just wanting to see if I should install it now or if I could wait a few months. Thank you Gerry!
It's less of an issue in the summer because the outside temp is less likely to get so low that setting the thermostat to it's lowest wouldn't keep the heater off. However, depending on your local climate, it might still happen late at night, or early in the morning. It's also a bit of a pain to keep dialing the temp up and down depending on whether you want AC or not.
 
davewill said:
Deolloz said:
Gerry,

A question about the heater control module switch. Does it have any benefit during the hot summer months, or is it only helpful during cold winter months? have already purchased the kit online, just wanting to see if I should install it now or if I could wait a few months. Thank you Gerry!
It's less of an issue in the summer because the outside temp is less likely to get so low that setting the thermostat to it's lowest wouldn't keep the heater off. However, depending on your local climate, it might still happen late at night, or early in the morning. It's also a bit of a pain to keep dialing the temp up and down depending on whether you want AC or not.

It is worth installing now. Believe it or not, the 2011 and 2012 HVAC control systems sometimes run the heater in conjunction with the A/C compressor to moderate the discharge temperature from the dash or floor vents. It does not happen too often, but can sneak up on you and significantly reduce range. To minimize the possibility of that happening before you get the kit installed, set the desired temperature really low and control the amount of cooling by adjusting the fan speed (do not use Auto). I used to set the temperature to 60 F and run the fan on a relatively low speed after getting the car cooled down.
 
bitmanEV said:
during the summer is have the switch on OFF to be sure that's OFF :cool:

To keep the heater from running, you want the lowest resistance resistor switched in parallel with the temperature sensor so that would either be position 1 or 2 (not off). The OFF position is for normal heater operation.
 
GerryAZ said:
bitmanEV said:
during the summer is have the switch on OFF to be sure that's OFF :cool:

To keep the heater from running, you want the lowest resistance resistor switched in parallel with the temperature sensor so that would either be position 1 or 2 (not off). The OFF position is for normal heater operation.


Gerry,

Assuming I get the heater control switch kit installed soon ( it already arrived in the mail):

Before installing, do I need to pre-set the HVAC to a specific setting?

After the install, considering its hot here in Austin right now (~100), I will keep the AC on 60 degrees and lowest fan setting once cooled, then what setting do I put the switch at, 0, 1, or 2? Will that change in the winter months?

Thanks.
 
GerryAZ said:
bitmanEV said:
during the summer is have the switch on OFF to be sure that's OFF :cool:

To keep the heater from running, you want the lowest resistance resistor switched in parallel with the temperature sensor so that would either be position 1 or 2 (not off). The OFF position is for normal heater operation.

not sure what you are talking about but i have my switch (mod from Tor) OFF during the whole summer
 
Deolloz said:
GerryAZ said:
bitmanEV said:
during the summer is have the switch on OFF to be sure that's OFF :cool:

To keep the heater from running, you want the lowest resistance resistor switched in parallel with the temperature sensor so that would either be position 1 or 2 (not off). The OFF position is for normal heater operation.


Gerry,

Assuming I get the heater control switch kit installed soon ( it already arrived in the mail):

Before installing, do I need to pre-set the HVAC to a specific setting?

After the install, considering its hot here in Austin right now (~100), I will keep the AC on 60 degrees and lowest fan setting once cooled, then what setting do I put the switch at, 0, 1, or 2? Will that change in the winter months?

Thanks.

You want to use Position 1 (330 ohm resistor) to keep heating elements from being energized inadvertently while using A/C. Position 2 (2.2 kohm resistor) would allow the heating elements to be energized, but keep the fluid temperature lower than normal. The OFF position allows the heating elements to heat the fluid normally and will reduce range under certain ambient temperature conditions. Therefore, I recommend Position 1 to avoid inadvertent heating element use unless you need heat. Choose Position 2 or OFF depending upon cabin heat/defrost needs. Use OFF to get maximum heating.
 
GerryAZ said:
You want to use Position 1 (330 ohm resistor) to keep heating elements from being energized inadvertently while using A/C. Position 2 (2.2 kohm resistor) would allow the heating elements to be energized, but keep the fluid temperature lower than normal. The OFF position allows the heating elements to heat the fluid normally and will reduce range under certain ambient temperature conditions. Therefore, I recommend Position 1 to avoid inadvertent heating element use unless you need heat. Choose Position 2 or OFF depending upon cabin heat/defrost needs. Use OFF to get maximum heating.


Gerry,

Since it's around 100 degrees right now in Austin regularly, I will want to have this set at position 1 for all summer, correct? I am -only- running AC in the car at this time.
 
Yes, to eliminate the risk of inadvertent heating element operation you should use Position 1 (330 ohm resistor) unless you need heat. It is less likely that the heating elements will be energized during A/C use in our high ambient temperatures than at more moderate temperatures, but why not use Position 1 so there is no chance? I temporarily connected a 330 ohm resistor in place of the sensor and was planning to build a permanent circuit with switches and relays, but the car met its demise before I made permanent modifications. I like the design of the plug-and-play kit and would have purchased one if my car had not been totaled.

I recommend that you do not use the OFF Position (enables full heat) unless you need heat and/or defrost and you are able to accept the associated power consumption and range reduction. Position 2 is a good alternative to have some heat with a less severe range impact.
 
GerryAZ said:
Yes, to eliminate the risk of inadvertent heating element operation you should use Position 1 (330 ohm resistor) unless you need heat. It is less likely that the heating elements will be energized during A/C use in our high ambient temperatures than at more moderate temperatures, but why not use Position 1 so there is no chance? I temporarily connected a 330 ohm resistor in place of the sensor and was planning to build a permanent circuit with switches and relays, but the car met its demise before I made permanent modifications. I like the design of the plug-and-play kit and would have purchased one if my car had not been totaled.

I recommend that you do not use the OFF Position (enables full heat) unless you need heat and/or defrost and you are able to accept the associated power consumption and range reduction. Position 2 is a good alternative to have some heat with a less severe range impact.

Gerry, with a little help from my brother, I FINALLY got the kit installed problem free. And with your suggestions, I left it in Position 1, and I actually did not drill a hole or anything (yet), I just stuffed it down into the compartment where I thought it would be out of the way.

I would like to thank you for the advice.

My next couple of questions are about the AC element in general...

1) My AC seems to be randomly "cutting out" and going only to fan, not sure if/when/why. I usually drive in Eco Mode, and it's VERY hot here these days (~100). could it be that the battery is over-heating, although the temperature bars on the instrument control panel never seem outrageous. Any possible explanation/reason/fix for this (or maybe the installation of the kit will help?)

2) How do I properly cool the vehicle while its still plugged in? Many times, I feel it would be helpful for me walk up to the car while it's charging in/plugged in, and go ahead and blast the AC for a little bit to cool it down. HOwever, whenever I try and turn the car on with it plugged in, I'm never sure if the car actually fully turns on or if it's just in "accesory" mode... I can never feel cold air coming through no matter how many times I press the ignition button. Bear in mind, I don't have any of the 3g components working on the vehicle, so no remote connection to it via Car-wings, etc.
 
ECO mode reduces the maximum power draw of the A/C (or heater) so I never use it. High battery temperature has no impact on HVAC operation. The A/C compressor will cut off for a few minutes if the evaporator temperature gets close to freezing so make sure the cabin air filter is not restricting air flow and use moderate to high blower speeds for best cooling.

The best way to cool while plugged in is to use the EV Connect (CarWings) system to start cooling remotely, but you need the 3G modem upgrade and an account (no cost) with Nissan. You can also use climate control timer to activate HVAC system while plugged in if your schedule is consistent. I think you can start climate control at the car while it is plugged in if the SOC is at least 25% using the following procedure:
1. Place foot on brake.
2. Press ON button once (dash will show message iindicating car is plugged in and not ready to drive), but HVAC should work.
3. Turn car OFF, unplug, and then turn car ON when ready to drive.
 
Deolloz said:
1) My AC seems to be randomly "cutting out" and going only to fan, not sure if/when/why. I usually drive in Eco Mode, and it's VERY hot here these days (~100). could it be that the battery is over-heating, although the temperature bars on the instrument control panel never seem outrageous. Any possible explanation/reason/fix for this (or maybe the installation of the kit will help?)

I've had the same issues in Houston - just ordered a new cabin filter (Gerry's recommendation) - we'll see if it stops the "cutting out". It has never stopped long enough to be very uncomfortable. A good way to tell immediately if the compressor is back on is to watch the "energy" gauges - the climate control power levels will show when the compressor starts up again. I believe the fan also shows on this gauge as it goes to the highest levels when the fan is on high blow (probably not significant though). What is incredible to me is that when stabilized, the A/C only draws 200 to 500 watts to keep the driver/passenger cool. Contrast to an ICE vehicle that pulls significant HP to keep the same cool!
 
Marktm said:
Deolloz said:
1) My AC seems to be randomly "cutting out" and going only to fan, not sure if/when/why. I usually drive in Eco Mode, and it's VERY hot here these days (~100). could it be that the battery is over-heating, although the temperature bars on the instrument control panel never seem outrageous. Any possible explanation/reason/fix for this (or maybe the installation of the kit will help?)

I've had the same issues in Houston - just ordered a new cabin filter (Gerry's recommendation) - we'll see if it stops the "cutting out". It has never stopped long enough to be very uncomfortable. A good way to tell immediately if the compressor is back on is to watch the "energy" gauges - the climate control power levels will show when the compressor starts up again. I believe the fan also shows on this gauge as it goes to the highest levels when the fan is on high blow (probably not significant though). What is incredible to me is that when stabilized, the A/C only draws 200 to 500 watts to keep the driver/passenger cool. Contrast to an ICE vehicle that pulls significant HP to keep the same cool!

Mark, can you tell me how to engage the "energy gauges," I assume this is in the stereo/navigation unit somewhere, but I've never pulled them up. I have a 2011.
 
On my 2012, there is a radio button with a blue "energy" symbol that is directly below the "scan - tune" buttons (right, bottom area of the Nav buttons). The "energy"menu will come up on the screen. Hit the right top menu icon and the gauges should come - very interesting data.
 
Two additional questions...

So, I lost a bar (8 --> 7) within the span of about 1.5 months, in 100 degree weather, with maybe only 2-3k miles! Since i'm a total noob to the EV world (as of two months ago), I probably wasn't treating the battery right. I will have to go back to the drawing board I guess. Since my SOH according to LeafSpy is now around 52%, it's difficult for me to only charge to 80% capacity, because that only gives me about 25-30 miles. I've been continuing to charge it to full, and that may have caused the quick loss of a bar (and the ~100 degree heat here this summer). However, I can actually stop charging before it gets to full using the ChargePoint app, even without CarWings setup. Is there a good "write-up" of how to properly care for the battery with advise, tips, and tricks? I believe I had found one here: "https://www.clippercreek.com/extend-life-ev-battery/" ...

Second, what happens when the the car is active and "on," and I plug it straight in? Will it turn off? Could use this as a method of cooling the cars temperature before getting into it, and thereby using less of the battery power to do that?
 
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