2012 Leaf SL?

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warrenc

Well-known member
Joined
Mar 28, 2017
Messages
110
Location
Tacoma,WA
I've been keeping an eye on the local market for a few months now, initially looking for a 2013 or newer S or SV model for all the reasons that have been discussed here, but this 2012 SL came up near me at a dealer that I know very well and I think I can get it for a good price.
It's had a blessed life here in the NW and is loaded with almost all the options, including leather. It has 33000 miles on it and shows 12 bars.
I could probably get a 2013 S or maybe a 2014 S for the same price, but for my needs this seems like maybe a better deal? It also has the QC, which I didn't think was even an option on a 2012.
Many of the other cars I find are from California or Georgia, but like I said, this has spent it's whole life locally and has obviously been well cared for. I tried to use Leaf Spy on it, but apparently my OBDII adapter isn't compatible.
I know the batteries in the 2011-12 isn't aren't as good as the newer ones, but considering all the options, being Japanese made and the fact that I know the dealer and salesman well, I'm thinking it might be a better overall deal?
It might travel a maximum of 30 miles a day, BTW.
 
If it has leather, it is aftermarket because 2011 and 2012 came only with recycled plastic cloth interior. Onboard charger is only 3.3 kW so it will take longer to charge than newer cars with 6 kW charger. DCQC port was optional so make sure it has the port if you plan to use quick charging stations.
 
I did not know that. If it's aftermarket, it's well done! It does have the QC port, but I doubt that I would ever use it.
So what would be a good price for a 2012 SL?
 
Price really depends upon condition of car, condition of battery, and location. Location is a large factor because some places (like California) have many used LEAFs available while they are scarce in other locations.
 
I should have posted the subject as 2012 SL Vs. 2013 S in the first place, because that's the dilemma I find myself in. I can find a very basic S model in the $6-8K range, but for the same price I can have an earlier SL with all the niceties but an arguably worse battery pack and a lump in the cargo area for the charger.
In my circumstances, I think the SL wins out since I have a very short commute, the 6.6 kw charger would be of little use to me, and I wouldn't get the heat pump unless I found a newer SV which would likely add another $1500 or more to the price.
I think the resale value of these older Leafs will likely plummet even lower in the next few years with the advent of longer range EV's like the Bolt and Model 3. I suppose the smart option might be to wait another year and see what the market does.
Meantime, I've noticed used prices around the Seattle area do seem to be going up lately. Either it's the time of year or the demand for Leafs is actually increasing?
 
warrenc said:
I should have posted the subject as 2012 SL Vs. 2013 S in the first place, because that's the dilemma I find myself in. I can find a very basic S model in the $6-8K range, but for the same price I can have an earlier SL with all the niceties but an arguably worse battery pack and a lump in the cargo area for the charger.
In my circumstances, I think the SL wins out since I have a very short commute, the 6.6 kw charger would be of little use to me, and I wouldn't get the heat pump unless I found a newer SV which would likely add another $1500 or more to the price.
I think the resale value of these older Leafs will likely plummet even lower in the next few years with the advent of longer range EV's like the Bolt and Model 3. I suppose the smart option might be to wait another year and see what the market does.
Meantime, I've noticed used prices around the Seattle area do seem to be going up lately. Either it's the time of year or the demand for Leafs is actually increasing?

FWIW, used LEAF prices seem to be increasing in Phoenix also. The 2011/2012 models from Japan have some features missing on later models, but I hesitate to recommend them unless someone has a really short commute or little need for heat/defrost. The electric hot water tank heater system works OK if you preheat while plugged in, but it takes quite a bit of battery power and can be slow to heat. The 2012 has heated seats and steering wheel which would help compared to my 2011. You would probably want the capability of remote climate control if you get the SL so plan on upgrading the telematics unit if it has not already been done. If I knew that range would never be an issue, I would take the 2012. If I needed as much range as possible, I would search for a newer SV or SL with the heat pump system.

The 2011/2012 motors have more torque and the accelerator pedal/control software mapping makes it easier to accelerate quickly from stop lights. The 2011/2012 motors will give you their best acceleration by just flooring the accelerator. My 2015 is almost as fast as the 2011 if I do everything right, but it requires feathering the accelerator instead of just flooring it.
 
warrenc said:
the fact that I know the dealer and salesman well, I'm thinking it might be a better overall deal?
I don't know your salesperson, but I thought you are buying a car ?
 
SageBrush said:
warrenc said:
the fact that I know the dealer and salesman well, I'm thinking it might be a better overall deal?
I don't know your salesperson, but I thought you are buying a car ?
:lol: I suppose that wasn't the best wording.
I just meant that I've known the salesman for 10 years. I've purchased a couple vehicles from him in that time and sent more than one customer to him. That Chevrolet dealership was sold about 7 years ago, but most of the key players there all moved to this dealer across town and even thought I've never bought anything there, they have all been very good to me. I'm sure he'd love to sell me a new Bolt or a Silverado, but we both know it wouldn't make sense for me.
I just told him to find out what they'll take for it and get back to me. I know when he does it will be the bottom line price, no need to haggle. I appreciate that more as I get older. When I bought my 08 Silverado, I probably spent a total of 15 minutes making the deal. I stopped by a couple years ago, thinking of trading it in on a new one and he talked me out of it.
 
If you're OK with the potentially lesser range or at least faster battery degradation than later '13's and on, the '12SL can be a nice loaded car. IMO the 1/2 speed L2 charger is kind of a big deal(others probably don't care too much) but most S models are the same speed and ones with the charger package tend to be $1000 or more above the price of a base S without the charger package(note in '13 w/o the charger package you also lose the backup camera).
As said leather wasn't an option in '12 so if it has leather, either it's a '13 or was an aftermarket addition.
 
I should just post the car so everyone can look i over. The Car Fax is there to see too.
http://www.gilchristauto.com/VehicleDetails/used-2012-Nissan-LEAF-4dr_HB_SL-Tacoma-WA/2982875663
 
warrenc said:
I just meant that I've known the salesman for 10 years. I've purchased a couple vehicles from him in that time and sent more than one customer to him. That Chevrolet dealership was sold about 7 years ago, but most of the key players there all moved to this dealer across town and even thought I've never bought anything there, they have all been very good to me. I'm sure he'd love to sell me a new Bolt or a Silverado, but we both know it wouldn't make sense for me.
I just told him to find out what they'll take for it and get back to me. I know when he does it will be the bottom line price, no need to haggle. I appreciate that more as I get older. When I bought my 08 Silverado, I probably spent a total of 15 minutes making the deal. I stopped by a couple years ago, thinking of trading it in on a new one and he talked me out of it.
I'll go out on a limb and guess that your friendly Chevy salesperson knows diddly about the LEAF other than its cosmetic condition, miles, year, and how much the dealership paid.

Do your own homework, or don't be surprised by surprises.

The 12th bar of battery capacity goes away when about 16% of battery capacity is lost. Without LEAFSpy that is the best you can know.
 
You're on a pretty sturdy limb there. He'd be the first to admit that he's no expert on these cars. I ordered another Bluetooth dongle last night.
Next I want to check with insurance and see what they want to cover this thing. That's also a deciding factor.
 
LeftieBiker said:
Get several quotes, because insurance companies are all over the map on covering the Leaf.
+1, like double the price with some companies :(
Yes, no doubt a '12, the front fender maker lights and headlight adjustment knob on the dash give it away.
Note the '12s and '11s had a VERY light interior, shows basically EVERYTHING! 13's and on have a much nicer(IMO) darker interior, much more forgiving with kids.
If you get it, you might want to add a ~$25 switch to enable you to turn off the heat. Without the switch, in cooler temps and with the climate control on, you have no way to keep the energy hog heater from coming on. If you live in a warmer climate you might be OK without the switch, I for one consider it indispensable and can't believe Nissan wouldn't have included it in every Leaf, that and no SOC% on the '11s and '12s, another MAJOR gaff IMO. SOC% is basically the only display I look at AFA battery capacity. On my '12 I ended up with a used LeafDD gauge and mounted it on the dash. Not as nice as something built in but again basically mandatory to have IMO. Without LeafDD you could also use a OBDII adapter and old Android smart phone along with LeafSpy, LeafSpy gives you SOC% and lots more info, all of which is MUCH better than the really bad GOM on the '11s and '12s, by '13 the GOM got a little better but still hardly worth looking at IMO.
 
One of the nice advantages of buying a used car is that you can consider skipping collision insurance since the car's value once the insurance company is finished with appraisal is somewhere between low and really low.

I insure my LEAF in Colorado for 1M/300k liability for about $15 a month through Amica. Comp insurance might still be worth it since it is usually cheap, and depending where you live and drive uninsured motorist (UI) may also be worthwhile.
 
The GOM in my 2011 was much more accurate after the P3227 software update than the GOM in my 2015 is. I was really surprised how bad the GOM in my 2015 was the first day I drove it. Definitely shop around for insurance and get the plug/play heater off switch.
 
I thank everyone for their input. I heard back from my salesman and he says they are stuck on that price. He says they are into if for more than that, which seems unlikely to me since trade in value is somewhere south of $6000, but maybe they gave the customer an inflated trade in to offset an inflated price on a new car.
I must say, I was taken by that car with all the options. It felt pretty luxurious for a commuter car! The other problem is the wife is not sold on the idea, although I know she would like the heated seats and steering wheel, and the leather. She just thinks they are too ugly. I can't really argue with that, but like i told her, everybody else has to look at it; you're just driving it and not buying gas!
I did call my insurance and it would cost me just over $40 a month to insure it without collision. That didn't seem too bad to me.
 
One other difference on the 2012SL - electric emergency brake. Several forum posters don't care for this but mine has worked well and gotten me to apply it without thinking every time I put the car in Park. It even releases itself if you forget when you shift into a driving gear and apply the throttle. My other vehicle has the foot pedal emergency brake that is depressed to apply it and then depressed slightly again to release it. As simple as that sounds, it is cumbersome, and I don't use it unless I'm parked on an incline.
 
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