I would leave the Nissan unit intact and keep it in the car for emergencies since it will work fine on 120V or 240V and is covered by the 5-year EV system warranty (assuming warranty on 2018 is similar to 2011 and 2015). If you go the OpenEVSE route, get a high-quality connector and cable to match its maximum output. If you may be driving during the day and need to recharge quickly, get an EVSE that will supply 30 amperes or more (assuming you have adequate power panel capacity). If you have existing welding (NEMA 6-50), RV (NEMA 14-50), or air conditioner/power tool (NEMA 6-20 or 6-30) receptacles, you can get Clipper Creek units with appropriate plugs and current ratings to use those existing receptacles. Supply cords on the Clipper Creek units are only 12 inches long overall (to comply with electrical codes and standards) so it can be a challenge to mount the unit within reach of an existing receptacle.V8BoatBuilder wrote:Since I have 208v at my shop, I am thinking of getting a OpenEVSE kit and taking the Nissan's EVSE J1772 cord to round it out (Nissan EVSE won't work on 208). Thoughts?GlennD wrote:Most here like Clipper Creek EVSE's I use and build OpenEVSE units. I understand the Amazing EVSE on Amazon is made by Clipper Creek. It is only 16A cut it will do the job overnight. At less than $200 it is hard to turn down.
There is also the Chinese units. They lack GFCI protection but they are less than $200 on Amazon.
I have a Clipper Creek HCS-50P at my workshop that works fine on 208V. I could not conveniently mount it within reach of the existing RV receptacle so I mounted it on a pedestal which is on casters so I can roll it out of the way when not in use. I bought a 15-foot RV extension cord to plug it in to the receptacle.