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Marktm
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Delivery Date: 09 Jan 2016
Leaf Number: 022737

Pulling the plug! well - maybe the fuses.

Wed Jul 05, 2017 10:18 am

Have to admit - been reluctant to ask this - and did the searches necessary (to not be too redundant) with no conclusions:

Has anyone methodically "pulled" strategic fuses (ignition off of course), then tried to start and operate the Leaf? Why do this???
As a last resort I will tie directly into the Leaf's 400 VDC system to power my SURT10k inverter and therefor will want to absolutely minimize any "parasitic loads" while powering the inverter. The HV wiring shows that to get power in-situ - and without major mods to the Leaf, will require that the System Main Relays be closed - essentially the leaf has to be able to drive! So, at this point it is somewhat academic as I'd much prefer using the CHAdeMO port with all the safety protocols (SETEC POWER V2H unit) and will likely end up going that route if the equipment that I need becomes available (the SETEC unit is a little smaller than I want and is 220 VAC single phase).

If anyone has had such experience, or advice on minimizing continuous loads that are not absolutely necessary, please share. Obviously I don't want to have to trailer the Leaf to my dealer for a "Consult" session, so "bricking" is not desired. However, I did buy the Leaf to use the battery off-grid, but I like driving it so much, the risk of losing that option is not an option anymore.
2012 Leaf SL; 34,000 miles. 12 bars - Battery replaced November 1st, 2016.
4000 watts Grid-tied solar. 3000 watts (level II) off-grid solar Leaf charging capable.

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IssacZachary
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Leaf Number: 420789
Location: Gunnison, CO, USA

Re: Pulling the plug! well - maybe the fuses.

Fri Jul 07, 2017 8:03 pm

https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=6Zivzvh9Bx0
This may illustrate the problem you're wanting to avoid. You can fast forward to about 4:20 to see the problem. But you might have to view his other videos to understand how his batteries are connected to the Leaf's traction battery.

Basically you don't want any voltage across the traction battery terminals without the battery itself being on.
2013 SL 45,000 miles.
12 bars until 44,300 miles on June 2, 2017. :D
11 bars current. :)
The Nissan Leaf is the fourth best long distance car for highway driving. >>Best Long Distance Cars<<

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Marktm
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Re: Pulling the plug! well - maybe the fuses.

Wed Jul 12, 2017 2:00 pm

IssacZachary wrote:This may illustrate the problem you're wanting to avoid. You can fast forward to about 4:20 to see the problem. But you might have to view his other videos to understand how his batteries are connected to the Leaf's traction battery.

Basically you don't want any voltage across the traction battery terminals without the battery itself being on.


Not sure I will duplicate the condition that caused the resistor to burn up as I will not have any high voltage sources - simply a user that will always draw less than the PTC heater. Also, I would not attempt to pull any of the fuses associated with the HV relays - just the ones associated with NAV, seat/steering heaters, etc. The more problematic could be the water pumps, etc., however, since I'm not actually driving the car, not sure that would be harmful. My guess is DTCs will be thrown anyway and the main HV relays likely won't close. My main worry is about "recovery" if any DTCs are thrown - can I simply disconnect the battery and "start" over?

Thanks
2012 Leaf SL; 34,000 miles. 12 bars - Battery replaced November 1st, 2016.
4000 watts Grid-tied solar. 3000 watts (level II) off-grid solar Leaf charging capable.

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IssacZachary
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Joined: Fri Jan 13, 2017 9:57 am
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Re: Pulling the plug! well - maybe the fuses.

Wed Jul 12, 2017 2:58 pm

Marktm wrote:
IssacZachary wrote:This may illustrate the problem you're wanting to avoid. You can fast forward to about 4:20 to see the problem. But you might have to view his other videos to understand how his batteries are connected to the Leaf's traction battery.

Basically you don't want any voltage across the traction battery terminals without the battery itself being on.


Not sure I will duplicate the condition that caused the resistor to burn up as I will not have any high voltage sources - simply a user that will always draw less than the PTC heater. Also, I would not attempt to pull any of the fuses associated with the HV relays - just the ones associated with NAV, seat/steering heaters, etc. The more problematic could be the water pumps, etc., however, since I'm not actually driving the car, not sure that would be harmful. My guess is DTCs will be thrown anyway and the main HV relays likely won't close. My main worry is about "recovery" if any DTCs are thrown - can I simply disconnect the battery and "start" over?

Thanks

Ok, I understand now.

I was saying that if you get a 12V signal to close the traction battery contactors but that little precharge contactor isn't closed first then you'll fry the circuit, not because you had an external 400V source, but because the battery's own 400V would do the same thing. But since you're not talking about those fuses or circuits then I guess it would be alright to do. Things on the 12V system shouldn't leave any permanent DTC's if you pull one of the fuses. Actually any fuse should not leave a permanent problem or DTC if you pull one since that's kind of the whole point of having fuses. You really should be alright to do it.

I am kind of curious myself as to what all can be disconnected and what will still work at the same time. I've had this idea to take a wrecked Leaf, take the battery and charging system out, put those on a trailer, and then have a range extending battery trailer that I can charge and balance separately from the Leaf's battery. That's a lot more far fetched than just pulling a couple fuses though.
2013 SL 45,000 miles.
12 bars until 44,300 miles on June 2, 2017. :D
11 bars current. :)
The Nissan Leaf is the fourth best long distance car for highway driving. >>Best Long Distance Cars<<

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Marktm
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Re: Pulling the plug! well - maybe the fuses.

Thu Jul 13, 2017 5:45 am

IssacZachary wrote:
I am kind of curious myself as to what all can be disconnected and what will still work at the same time. I've had this idea to take a wrecked Leaf, take the battery and charging system out, put those on a trailer, and then have a range extending battery trailer that I can charge and balance separately from the Leaf's battery. That's a lot more far fetched than just pulling a couple fuses though.


You can try PM'ing COR - he might help you determine if "far fetched" or not!

Seems logical that you are correct about "pulling" fuses as they are meant to be replaceable - hoping someone has already done a "fuse pull project"!
2012 Leaf SL; 34,000 miles. 12 bars - Battery replaced November 1st, 2016.
4000 watts Grid-tied solar. 3000 watts (level II) off-grid solar Leaf charging capable.

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JeremyW
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Re: Pulling the plug! well - maybe the fuses.

Thu Jul 13, 2017 6:12 am

Although it looks like you aren't going down this path, I'll note this anyway for everyone:
I don't believe 2011's and 2012's support power out of the CHAdeMO port by default. I think you need a 2013 or newer (might be a 2014, but 2015 and newer for sure support it without any updates). For the Japan market with Nissan's Leaf2Home, there was a firmware update to support it, but I don't think it's available here.
Former 2012 SL leasee 6/23/12 - 9/23/15
Now driving Honda Fit EV, License plate: CHADEMO
2000 Honda Insight for long trips

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Marktm
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Posts: 315
Joined: Thu Jan 21, 2016 10:49 am
Delivery Date: 09 Jan 2016
Leaf Number: 022737

Re: Pulling the plug! well - maybe the fuses.

Thu Jul 13, 2017 7:04 am

JeremyW wrote:Although it looks like you aren't going down this path, I'll note this anyway for everyone:
I don't believe 2011's and 2012's support power out of the CHAdeMO port by default. I think you need a 2013 or newer (might be a 2014, but 2015 and newer for sure support it without any updates). For the Japan market with Nissan's Leaf2Home, there was a firmware update to support it, but I don't think it's available here.


I have heard the same - in fact SETEC power that sells the V2H unit has stated that you must have a 2013 or later.

Anyone know if there is a "patch/update firmware" that will allow the 2011/2012's to allow V2H/V2G via the CHAdeMO?
2012 Leaf SL; 34,000 miles. 12 bars - Battery replaced November 1st, 2016.
4000 watts Grid-tied solar. 3000 watts (level II) off-grid solar Leaf charging capable.

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