Clicking noise during acceleration and decceleration

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Bateman said:
I'd be curious if others have the sound stop when braking in neutral, as I was able to find out. I'm assuming this eliminates the brakes as the cause of the noise.

Yes, same for me, If I break on neutral I don't have a noise, and I actually can make some small crackling noise while playing between max regen in Eco and full accelleration, without touching the brakes at all. it is definitely coming from somewhere in drivetrain.
 
Interesting that your relatively early-build 2011 and my brand new 2013 domestic unit have the same symptoms.
 
Apparently the problem is that the cotter keys can get loose and rattle in the hub. It is not a safety or mechanical issue, just a noise...

UkrainianKozak said:
potrero said:
for what its worth, I had this same problem and was told it was s simple fix - "replacing the cotter pins at the hubs on the two front wheels." they did this yesterday, free under warrantee, and the clicking sound seems to be gone. they said theyve seen this alot (not sure if just on Leafs or on other Nissans too). We'll see if it comes back.
That does not sound right...
Cotter pins are there just for safety, to make sure the main axle nut won't come lose, but AFAIK that nut should be always tightened to a certain momentum, so the only way the cotter pin can make sound is if the nut is loose, which is a bad thing by itself and might cause the wheel to wobble...
 
TomT said:
Apparently the problem is that the cotter keys can get loose and rattle in the hub. It is not a safety or mechanical issue, just a noise...

Any chance you can confirm your vehicle still makes the noise when braking in neutral? If its really a cotter pin, it should happen regardless of transmission selection....
 
TomT said:
Apparently the problem is that the cotter keys can get loose and rattle in the hub. It is not a safety or mechanical issue, just a noise...

UkrainianKozak said:
potrero said:
for what its worth, I had this same problem and was told it was s simple fix - "replacing the cotter pins at the hubs on the two front wheels." they did this yesterday, free under warrantee, and the clicking sound seems to be gone. they said theyve seen this alot (not sure if just on Leafs or on other Nissans too). We'll see if it comes back.
That does not sound right...
Cotter pins are there just for safety, to make sure the main axle nut won't come lose, but AFAIK that nut should be always tightened to a certain momentum, so the only way the cotter pin can make sound is if the nut is loose, which is a bad thing by itself and might cause the wheel to wobble...

Maybe we are talking about different issues here...
The noise that I'm talking about has nothing similar to rattle, it sounds more like stress crackling, and the more power you give, the louder it is and you hear more crackling. Rattle from loose pins would not depend on the torque... only on rotation... and I can't imaging how can you get that LOUD crackling from loose pin...
 
Actually, mine has never had that noise; I was just reporting what I had been told...
Mine had the whir at very low speeds (below 3 mph) caused by the lub issue (for which there is a TSB). BTW, that fix only lasted about 2,000 miles and the noise is now back... Sigh.

Bateman said:
TomT said:
Apparently the problem is that the cotter keys can get loose and rattle in the hub. It is not a safety or mechanical issue, just a noise...
Any chance you can confirm your vehicle still makes the noise when braking in neutral? If its really a cotter pin, it should happen regardless of transmission selection....
 
Took my car into the dealer, they called and said that they have lubricated splines in the drivetrain and that has fixed it. I'll know more tomorrow and only time will tell if that fixes the issue permanently.
 
UkrainianKozak said:
The noise that I'm talking about has nothing similar to rattle, it sounds more like stress crackling, and the more power you give, the louder it is and you hear more crackling.

Hopefully not from bearing arcing due to a problem with the reduction gear brush. I don't know if
you could hear this, but have read that it can reduce bearing life by 80%. I found it interesting that
the brush is not directly on the motor rotor, but instead on the offset gear. I wonder if this means
the gear oil needs to be conductive?
 
planet4ever said:
Good try, but not on a LEAF motor. It has no brushes at all. The rotor is a permanent magnet, and the only place the electricity goes is to the stator.

Ray

Because the stator is driven by high voltage pulses that simulate a sine wave, I have read that there are
2 effects, one is the the high voltage spikes induce a voltage in the rotor, 2 because it is not
a perfect sine wave the 3 phase drive is not always balanced, so current flows in the rotor.
The article I read (sorry lost reference) showed pictures of deep scoring in a bearing (though
not the Leaf motor). I suspect lower voltage dc brushless motors may not be as strongly effected.
The service manual does show a brush in the reduction gear.
 
I have a clack sound too. It sounds like engaging and disengaging and two magnetic plates slap together. I hear it on the expressway when traffic slows to a crawl. I roll down the windows and the sound bounces off the concrete barrier. When I take my foot off the accelerator, "clack". When I accelerate again, "clack". I have a 2013 SL with 2,900 miles.

I will schedule a visit to the dealer.
 
planet4ever said:
cliff said:
Hopefully not from bearing arcing due to a problem with the reduction gear brush.
Good try, but not on a LEAF motor. It has no brushes at all. The rotor is a permanent magnet, and the only place the electricity goes is to the stator.
Sorry Ray, Cliff is right on this one. All AC motors can induce eddy currents in the rotor shaft that will circulate through the bearings and destroy them. They use 2 methods to stop this, one is an insulator on one (or both) sides, and the other is a "bypass" brush which lets the current go around the bearing.

The LEAF's motor is BLDC, but in an induction motor, such as the Tesla has, there are massive currents circulating in the rotor, even though there is no electrical connection to it, and this is essential to motor operation. In the LEAF's BLDC, This is just an unintentional induction effect. They use the brush to bypass any eddy currents.

Back to the OT: I've seen this clicking/spalling noise occur on un-lubed splines in many cases. Sounds like this is the main issue to me. All they need to do is lube the splines.

The click (sounds like "tak" on mine) from forward to reverse is likely the brake pads shifting and is not a concern.

-Phil
 
Got my Leaf back this morning and the lubrication seems to have resolved the issue. Fingers crossed that this solution isn't a temporary fix.
 
Noticed the same thing today. Sound reminds me a lot of the time in my younger days when I forgot to cinch the lug nuts all the way on my front wheel drive car. Not a rattle at all, more like a "thunk-click-CLAK" when shifting the rotational load (i.e. letting off the accelerator, coming to a complete stop, starting from a stop, etc.).

Just over a thousand miles on my 2013 SL - had it less than a month :(. Guess I'll give the dealer a call tomorrow.
 
kikbuti said:
I will schedule a visit to the dealer.

This post can go to at least 2 other threads. Feel free to move/copy.

Received an email supposedly from Dealer Service Manager stating "Your 2013 Nissan LEAF may soon be due for its first service." Yesterday, I clicked on the button, "Schedule Your Service Appointment" and a web page opened up for me to fill in the blanks. After submission, a message said that a service advisor would contact me.

This morning, I checked Carwings and received message "Unable to update vehicle status at this time." I tried again and found Leaf was not charged as schedule. In the garage I could see that vehicle was now charging. Time for work, not charged enough for round trip, so went to dealer who told me that it takes a few days before service advisor contacts after using the "third party" service. I advised "third party" service should have said so. At any rate, they couldn't work on it today. They brought out their Leaf technician who didn't seem knowledgeable about the July 1 PDM software upgrade bulletin or the click clack noise. They all seemed more concerned about my Siemens EVSE that I use at home. Told them EVSE not the problem. Several members of mynissanleaf.com forum have same problem and it is not the EVSE. Scheduled for drop off in two days and they will pay for rental.

Got to work and parked in public EVSE about mile from work. 2 Leafs and a Volt in the 4 station EVSE. Volt not plugged in. Cord ripped from post. Plugged in vacant EVSE. Leaf shows "not plugged in." Probably the breaker is tripped because of its companion EVSE on the 2 sided pole. Will go down again at lunchtime and hopefully one of the other Leafs are unplugged. If not, may not have enough juice to get home. Temperatures in 80s and 90s with humidity 60s and 70s. Sweated through my shirt walking to work. Will be tough to drive home with climate control off. Wish me luck.
 
kikbuti,

That sounds like a very frustrating day all-around! :| Out of curiosity, which dealer were you trying to schedule service online with?
 
I have the "Click" too on accel and decel. Click is louder the harder I accel or decel. 2013 model with 3200 miles. Maybe I'll get it looked at. It is annoying and should not be happening on a new car.

Thanks everyone for confirming that I'm not the only one with this issue. This proves "Misery Loves Company!"
 
My 2011 has the single click when changing directions. My first thought was a bad tie rod end but the brake pads shifting sounds like a good explanation. I would take it to the dealership but my local dealer is not certified and will not even concider looking at it and the closest dealer is 400 miles away. One of the other Leaf owners in town needed the bumper cover replaced and had to take the fight to Nissan to get our local dealer to even allow the car in the body shop.
 
I've never seen this thread for some reason!

My LEAF has had the same clicking sound from day one out of the dealers lot!

Mine sounds like it comes from the passenger rear tire. sounds like a clink, high pitched sound, metal on metal, like hitting a spoon on a piece of galvanized sheet metal.

Does it when I launch off and when I come to a complete stop.

Next maintenance is in April 2014, I'm pretty sure I'm waiting till then,

What are the splines?
 
Hi, the dealer and especially two mechanics I have good technical conversation with has fixed the problem. They said it's quite common problem not only with Leafs. There was bad design axle to hub connection. They replaced with new type of compression washer and the nut both sides. The problem is usually only on the left side due to shorter drive axle.
Parts replaced-2 pcs of:
40037-1CVA0A Washer
40262-1CA0A Nut
40073-0L700 Pin

about 45 min labour.
 
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