Driver window stuck in closed position, other window fine

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cwerdna said:
ksnogas2112 said:
What's an annual safety inspection?
Click to expand...
Yep. There are no state annual (safety or not) inspections in WA nor CA. I'd never heard of these before until the age of online forums like this.
Click to expand...

The inspection i was talking about is for importing a car from the state into canada, we have different regulation here like DRLs

The car passed with flying colors, happy ending indeed :D
 
kilimats said:
...The inspection i was talking about is for importing a car from the states into canada, we have different regulation here like DRLs

The car passed with flying colors, happy ending indeed :D
Click to expand...
Your location says Blaine, WA.
Did you move from Blaine to Canada?

Did you add Daytime Running Lights?
Not having DRL on all of the vehicles they manufacture is one of Nissan's general brand deficiencies.
 
TimLee said:
kilimats said:
...The inspection i was talking about is for importing a car from the states into canada, we have different regulation here like DRLs

The car passed with flying colors, happy ending indeed :D
Click to expand...
Your location says Blaine, WA.
Did you move from Blaine to Canada?

Did you add Daytime Running Lights?
Not having DRL on all of the vehicles they manufacture is one of Nissan's general brand deficiencies.
Click to expand...

Ya moved there, i added DRL by simply linking two pins to convert FOG light to DRL, took me 30min, nothing to buy.
 
My 2011 LEAF had the same problem. Everything was fine, then one day the driver window was unresponsive, stuck in the closed position. From helpful advice at this site, I just bought a new complete window switch assembly from Tasca Auto Parts for $116- with shipping. I popped the driver's door switch assembly out with a butter knife, replaced the assembly and all is now working perfectly. 2011 LEAF, bought used as a lease return. LEAF now has ~ 25,000 miles ;)
 
I am having the same problem on my MY2012 and a replacement switch has been ordered. Looking at the plastic triangle that needs to be lifted, this doesn't appear to be an entirely obvious task.

From a previous post:
It's trivial. You need to lift the black triangle that holds the switches on the driver's door. To do this, put your hand in the door handle and turn your fingers forward. You will feel that there is a slight indentation to allow you to lift the back of the black triangle. Lift firmly until you hear the first pop. Then slide your fingers in and lift firmly further back. Once you hear the second pop, you can slide the entire assembly toward the rear about one inch to free the front and allow it to lift free. From there, you can see what needs to be done to replace the module, especially once you have the replacement unit in hand.
Click to expand...
In my case the quality of the fit is quite good. There is just a horizontal seam where the top piece meets the bottom piece. No obvious indentations or other things to hold on to. It is clear that the top piece must be lifted (presumably after the mirror knob has been removed), but this doesn't appear to be a simple hand job of pressing here and lifting there. Any advice would be greatly appreciated. Thanks.
 
Turned out to be trivial after all. Don't try to lift at the plastic to plastic seam. Instead take a flat bladed instrument and lift the plastic at the "fabric" to plastic interface. Maybe two thirds up toward the narrow corner (between door lock and mirror knob) worked well for me. The mirror knob stays on, the whole assembly lifts out of the door in one piece.
 
Thanks for this thread. I have a 2012 LEAF with the same exact problem.

I just ordered the part from Tasca -- but it was $139.85 for me with shipping and tax. Bad timing I guess.

I'll try to create a YouTube video when I replace it if it really is as easy as I am led to believe here.
 
I'll weigh in and say my 2012 appears to have this problem. I just haven't opened up my door yet. I was going to check my switch before ordering a replacement, but that is starting to appear to be a very conservative move.
 
A video would be great. It took me a while to figure out how to lift the plastic triangle. I was under the impression that I needed to "press and lift" at the plastic seam. Instead, all it takes is to go in horizontally between fabric and plastic with a flat instrument (I used a butter knife). Separating the two connectors and getting the switch out of the assembly actually took more time than lifting the triangle.
 
Here is a video on how to replace the switch, and how to remove the plastic triangle. It seems to be the same method for all 4 doors:

[youtube]https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=5m3ibbil_VI[/youtube]


https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=5m3ibbil_VI
 
RegGuheert said:
DNAinaGoodWay said:
Probably a link to the service manual in the reference section, if you need it.
Click to expand...
No need. It's trivial. You need to lift the black triangle that holds the switches on the driver's door. To do this, put your hand in the door handle and turn your fingers forward. You will feel that there is a slight indentation to allow you to lift the back of the black triangle. Lift firmly until you hear the first pop. Then slide your fingers in and lift firmly further back. Once you hear the second pop, you can slide the entire assembly toward the rear about one inch to free the front and allow it to lift free. From there, you can see what needs to be done to replace the module, especially once you have the replacement unit in hand.
TimLee said:
So bad switch might not be all of the problem.
Click to expand...
Thanks, Tim! Good information!

Still, the switch needs to be replaced based on OP's description of the problem. I recommend doing that first and seeing how well the window moves. If it is sluggish, then you might want to look into the other issue. Unfortunately, that one is quite a bit more involved.
Click to expand...


I have a problem:
The YouTube Link looks good. Also, I priced a replacement -- $165 plus tax, but that is for the entire switch assembly. Wondering if only the bad switch can be individually replaced.
Dave
 
@CWO4Mann

You have to buy the whole assembly.
One of the reasons why it stops working you may see here:

[youtube]http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=gYP3_LaYLBM[/youtube]

[youtube]http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=pZK5DG0BlOo[/youtube]

There you will also see why you can`t just replace one switch...
 
I’m late to this window switch failure party but it finally did happen on my 2011 LEAF. Thanks for the part numbers and videos, they’ll both save us a lot of aggravation and expense. :)
 
mine died a couple weeks ago; lucky drivers window is in closed position

getting a new replacement part at the Nissan dealers is over £145 + VAT :eek:

so going to try to replace it with a £20 scrap Juke switch block see if that's working :roll:
 
bitmanEV said:
mine died a couple weeks ago; lucky drivers window is in closed position

getting a new replacement part at the Nissan dealers is over £145 + VAT :eek:

so going to try to replace it with a £20 scrap Juke switch block see if that's working :roll:
Click to expand...


I wondered the same -did it work out? :?:

On ebay they are selling aftermarket master switches that fit Leaf and Juke so thought may be ok to get used for juke as way cheaper ....
 

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