EVSE options for 2013+ Leafs

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I apologize if this has been answered before, but I wouldn't know where to start searching:

Does anyone know if upgrading EVSE for 2014 Leaf S via someone like EVSE Upgrade will void the lease or create any other problems at the end of lease term?

If so, does anyone want to sell one they're no longer using?
 
smr said:
I apologize if this has been answered before, but I wouldn't know where to start searching:

Does anyone know if upgrading EVSE for 2014 Leaf S via someone like EVSE Upgrade will void the lease or create any other problems at the end of lease term?

If so, does anyone want to sell one they're no longer using?



http://evseupgrade.com/?main_page=faq_info&fcPath=5&faqs_id=8" onclick="window.open(this.href);return false;
 
Also don't forget to check the Marketplace section of this forum. Click on Board Index (left side of the screen just below where "Logout" is), then Marketplace, then Private for Sale.

There is this 2013+ upgraded EVSE for sale: http://www.mynissanleaf.com/viewtopic.php?f=41&t=19331" onclick="window.open(this.href);return false;
 
The OP is horribly outdated now. Uggh, OK, I made my own list.

reminder not all the URLs in this post are mine, only the ones near the link : notation with http at the start are links I provided.

----------
1. EVSE upgrade portable 120v/240v EVSE

Upgrade the EVSE that comes with Leaf. Back in the early days this was hands down the best option but with the 2015 EVSE limited again on power and the addition of more L2 chargers in public places this doesn't gain you as much now as it did in the early days.

Max Power : 3.84kW (16a @ 240V for 2011/2012/2015) or 4.8kW (20a @ 240V for 2013/2014)
Upgrade Cost : $287 + Shipping + $25 for the 120V adapter (required if you plan to do any L1 charging) + $37 for a 14-xx adapter (optional)
replacement cost for downgrade : MNL forum/eBay/etc can easily get you a 120V original for $200 or so and you can find people to trade an upgraded one for an original plus cash.
replacement cost for 240V capable version : $200 to $300 for original + $287 + Shipping + $25 for the 120V adapter (required if you plan to do any L1 charging) + $37 for a 14-xx adapter (optional)

Ideally if you have this or are considering this you want a 14-50 jack to plug it into but it will play nice with lower power and other shape jacks if you buy the proper adapter or replace the jack to match the plug you have.

link : http://evseupgrade.com/?main_page=index&cPath=1" onclick="window.open(this.href);return false;


2. Jesla 40 amp portable 120v/240v EVSE

Max Power 9.6kW (40a @ 240V)
Cost : $999

This is the deluxe ultimate road warrior version of the evseupgrade. Better EVSE to start with converted to be friendly with J1772 and adapters equals the top of the line portable EVSE. It's not cheap but it holds the undeniable top spot in the portable EVSE market for those of us not driving a Tesla. Comes with the two adapters you are most likely to use with the option for any other adapter(s) you might need.

Link : http://www.QuickChargePower.com" onclick="window.open(this.href);return false;


3. Open EVSE

Get a kit from an open source hardware design. Buy rest of the items and assemble. Note these can be wall mounted or portable. Waterproof or not. This is the wildcard spot for everything not listed specifically elsewhere in the list that doesn't have a brand name stamped on the package.

Max Power > varies, cost competitive and can be feature rich but often less pleasing to the eye
Cost : ~$500

link : https://code.google.com/p/open-evse/wiki/Open_EVSEs" onclick="window.open(this.href);return false; (just some example pics, there are too many options to cover them all in one URL)


4. Clipper Creek LCS-25P (plug in) / LCS-25 (hard wired)

Max Power 4.8kW (20a @ 240V)
Cost : $485 / $469 plus electrician costs (with plug you pay once and can move the EVSE or upgrade without paying an electrician every time you change something)

If you get a 14-50 jack installed you are a leg up on plugging in your next higher amp EVSE should you get one. If you just need to cheap out the 14-30 jack still lets you use a 14-xx universal plug if you have a evseupgrade and want to plan for possible minor upgrade later.

Links :
http://www.clippercreek.com/store/product/lcs-25p-20a-240v-charging-25-cord-nema-14-50-plug/" onclick="window.open(this.href);return false;
http://www.clippercreek.com/store/product/charging-station-lcs-25p-nema-14-30/" onclick="window.open(this.href);return false;
http://www.clippercreek.com/store/product/charging-station-lcs-25-level-2/" onclick="window.open(this.href);return false;


5. Clipper Creek HCS-40P (plug in) / HCS-40P (hard wired)

Max Power 7.7kW (32a @ 240V)
Cost : $589 / $565 plus electrician costs (with plug you pay once and can move the EVSE or upgrade without paying an electrician every time you change something)

If you had a 14-50 installed previously for another lower amp EVSE this is the max you can upgrade to. You could sell off a cheaper EVSE if you decide to upgrade to this.

Links :
http://www.clippercreek.com/store/product/hcs-40p-32a-240v-charging-25-cord-nema-14-50-plug/" onclick="window.open(this.href);return false;
http://www.clippercreek.com/store/product/hcs-40-32a-240v-charging-25-cord/" onclick="window.open(this.href);return false;

6. Schneider Electric EVlink 30 Amp Generation 2.5 Model # EV230WS

Max Power 7.2kW (30a @ 240V)
Cost : $599

White minimalistic look that might remind you of any number of computer products. But it is made by a major player in the home power arena so definitely worth considering if you make it this far down the list. They sell it as hard wired only but depending on codes you might get someone to install it with a 14-50 plug for you.

-----------

There are other major corporation made EVSEs but none I've seen that beat the Jesla/evseupgrade routes for portable and the clipper creek / Schneider Electric routes for wall mounted (not counting the Tesla HPWC which is a no brainer for Tesla owners but doesn't exactly play nice with J1772 without modification).

If you want the ultimate in features look in the forums and find an openEVSE maker that will do a custom box for you. It won't save you money but it will give you way more options and you can decide how much information it shows where as some of the corporate options barely have more than a power light.
 
dhanson865 said:
3. Open EVSE

Get a kit from an open source hardware design. Buy rest of the items and assemble. Note these can be wall mounted or portable. Waterproof or not. This is the wildcard spot for everything not listed specifically elsewhere in the list that doesn't have a brand name stamped on the package.

Max Power > varies, cost competitive and can be feature rich but often less pleasing to the eye
Cost : ~$500

I think the new OpenEVSE enclosures are quite pleasing to the eye. Of course with an open design builders are free to use the parts of their choosing.

IMG_3448_b7a4586c-8fa6-4e11-9a0a-cb66eff048c4_1024x1024.JPG
 
chris1howell said:
dhanson865 said:
3. Open EVSE

Get a kit from an open source hardware design. Buy rest of the items and assemble. Note these can be wall mounted or portable. Waterproof or not. This is the wildcard spot for everything not listed specifically elsewhere in the list that doesn't have a brand name stamped on the package.

Max Power > varies, cost competitive and can be feature rich but often less pleasing to the eye
Cost : ~$500

I think the new OpenEVSE enclosures are quite pleasing to the eye. Of course with an open design builders are free to use the parts of their choosing.

It's not always the enclosure, sometimes an OpenEVSE has a harsh looking display (amber, green, red whatever that looks harsh due to brightness or contrast ratio) and some have less polished looking cables.

It's a hand crafted thing so you'll have variations all the way from master craftsman that makes the best EVSE on the planet to rank amateur that makes an ugly one that is still safe to charge with to the occasional failed bit of text (that confuses everyone).

It's all in the eye of the beholder some people like the clear Plexiglas look that shows all the internals of the EVSE some would say that is ugly.

Some like the extra displays to show Volts, Amps, Watts, Power, Charge time elapsed, some would say that is too much and would rather have a single LED status ring that changes color to display the status with no text at all.

Maybe I should just add the URL https://code.google.com/p/open-evse/wiki/Open_EVSEs" onclick="window.open(this.href);return false; and let people see some examples?
 
dhanson865 said:
It's not always the enclosure, sometimes an OpenEVSE has a harsh looking display (amber, green, red whatever that looks harsh due to brightness or contrast ratio) and some have less polished looking cables.

It's a hand crafted thing so you'll have variations all the way from master craftsman that makes the best EVSE on the planet to rank amateur that makes an ugly one that is still safe to charge with to the occasional I failed and wasted hundreds of dollars in parts (that hopefully gets hidden away and never gets sold to anyone).

It's all in the eye of the beholder some people like the clear Plexiglas look that shows all the internals of the EVSE some would say that is ugly.

Some like the extra displays to show Volts, Amps, Watts, Power, Charge time elapsed, some would say that is too much and would rather have a single LED status ring that changes color to display the status with no text at all.

Maybe I should just add the URL https://code.google.com/p/open-evse/wiki/Open_EVSEs" onclick="window.open(this.href);return false; and let people see some examples?

I am very sorry you had trouble with your build. If you ever feel like giving it another shot. I will be happy to help you get it working.

The examples link is outdated, those were the very first builds back in 2011 and 2012, a lot has changed since then. Google code is about to shut down so most of the content has already been moved top openevse.com or abanoned. You are correct it is up to the builder to chose the components, however the vast majority now chose the kits which include the enclosure, parts and all the little bits as well the screws and connectors.

Build guides have also been vastly improved. http://guides.openevse.com

There is a Basic kit with a single LED...
IMG_3389_1024x1024.JPG

IMG_20141001_172358_2_1024x1024.jpg
 
chris1howell said:
I am very sorry you had trouble with your build.

Interesting info but to be clear I've never tried making an open ev se. I was just googling for pictures to give something to point to.

Still I've looked at the open EV SEs for sale on this forum and even though some look quite impressive I wouldn't offer any of them to my coworkers that expect everything to be retail quality. They'd just nitpick something they didn't like about the particular EV SE and say it should look more like product X or product Y.

(did I mention I hate auto URLification of my own posts I can't even put the letters E V S E together without getting a URL in my post).
 
TBH my OpenEVSE is butt ugly on the surface, but that's my fault :D

All the parts from Chris that are inside are works of PCB art. I'd love to have an excuse to build another in one of those very stylish new boxes, but the darn thing just works perfectly every day so I can't justify the time or expense right now.

Maybe when I get the kids an iMiev later this year.
 
I bought and installed one made by GE Industrial. I could not find it for sale anywhere else, and Google provided no additional information. It met my requirements, hard-wired and outdoor, so I took a gamble and ordered it for $449 (+tax, free shipping). It works well, was less expensive than the other units I looked at, and I'm quite happy with it. I did add one of the hangers from Canada, it arrived in less than a week.

http://www.homedepot.com/p/GE-EV-Charger-Indoor-Outdoor-Level-2-DuraStation-Wall-Mount-with-18-ft-Cord-EVDSWGH-CP01/205808537" onclick="window.open(this.href);return false;

This could also be used as a portable unit. The wall mounts are removable, and the hole has to be added to the case (Hoffman, NEMA3R, Plastic) for the electrical connection. It would be very easy to install a cord and plug, instead of doing a hard-wire mounting.
 
dhanson865 said:
Still I've looked at the open EV SEs for sale on this forum and even though some look quite impressive I wouldn't offer any of them to my coworkers that expect everything to be retail quality.

You can expect that to change very soon. I have convinced one of the regular builders here to offer a stock build in addition to the highly modified custom builds he currently offers. Both guys are very talented and the build quality is fantastic. I think there will be plenty of demand for a stock unit that is built well.
 
baustin: I notice from your link that GE's DuraStation is ETL listed, but not UL listed, whereas GE's Watt-Station is both UL listed and ETL listed, as are most commercial EVSEs that I am aware of. From a safety standpoint I wonder why.

I looked at the "Residential DuraStation: Installation Guide" using Home Depot's link and found that it documents its EVSE's controlling 240v circuit breaker can be 40a, 30a, 20a, or 15a depending on whether an internal jumper is set for, respectively, 30a, 24a, 16a, or 12a maximum current draw from the EV. This is the only commercial EVSE that I know of that allows different current output settings AND allows a reduced circuit breaker rating. All the others (Siemens VersiCharge and Ecotality's Blink) ALWAYS require a 40a breaker regardless of a selected reduced output current, undoubtedly as a desirable extra measure of safety (to reduce the possibility of a breaker less than 40a inadvertently being used when the selected current draw x 125% is greater than that).

The following from Siemens explains its EVSE's current reduction capability rationale: "Amperage Adjustment - Installing electrical vehicle chargers into older homes can be a challenge. With the Siemens VersiCharge, the EVSE power output can be adjusted to match facility capability. Increments range from a maximum power setting of 7.2 kW down to 1.8 kW.".

It seems it may be too easy to open the DuraStation and expose electrically live parts, jumpers, etc as the Guide simply reads "Step 5 - Open the front cover of the enclosure." and "Step 9 - Replace cover.".

One further observation is this Installation Guide does not specify the EVSE circuit be a dedicated one, which I suspect is an (unfortunate) oversight. Contrast this rather skimpy 6 page document with the generously detailed 33 page "Installation and Operations Manual" for the VersiCharge.
 
dhanson865 said:
I failed and wasted hundreds of dollars in parts (that hopefully gets hidden away and never gets sold to anyone).
chris1howell said:
I am very sorry you had trouble with your build.

Interesting info but to be clear I've never tried making an open ev se.

I'd be happy to taken your OpenEVSE parts off your hand and turn them into a new EVSE.
 
MikeD said:
baustin: I notice from your link that GE's DuraStation is ETL listed, but not UL listed, whereas GE's Watt-Station is both UL listed and ETL listed, as are most commercial EVSEs that I am aware of. From a safety standpoint I wonder why.

I looked at the "Residential DuraStation: Installation Guide" using Home Depot's link and found that it documents its EVSE's controlling 240v circuit breaker can be 40a, 30a, 20a, or 15a depending on whether an internal jumper is set for, respectively, 30a, 24a, 16a, or 12a maximum current draw from the EV. This is the only commercial EVSE that I know of that allows different current output settings AND allows a reduced circuit breaker rating. All the others (Siemens VersiCharge and Ecotality's Blink) ALWAYS require a 40a breaker regardless of a selected reduced output current, undoubtedly as a desirable extra measure of safety (to reduce the possibility of a breaker less than 40a inadvertently being used when the selected current draw x 125% is greater than that).

The following from Siemens explains its EVSE's current reduction capability rationale: "Amperage Adjustment - Installing electrical vehicle chargers into older homes can be a challenge. With the Siemens VersiCharge, the EVSE power output can be adjusted to match facility capability. Increments range from a maximum power setting of 7.2 kW down to 1.8 kW.".

It seems it may be too easy to open the DuraStation and expose electrically live parts, jumpers, etc as the Guide simply reads "Step 5 - Open the front cover of the enclosure." and "Step 9 - Replace cover.".

One further observation is this Installation Guide does not specify the EVSE circuit be a dedicated one, which I suspect is an (unfortunate) oversight. Contrast this rather skimpy 6 page document with the generously detailed 33 page "Installation and Operations Manual" for the VersiCharge.

The manual is a bit sparse. It seems that it was written for experienced installers, and lacks much of the detail and explanation found in other EVSE manuals. It also fails to mention that Torx Security Screws (two T25 bits included) are used on the cover.

I have included a link to some pictures, including the labels on the case. It says that it is built to UL standards. I'm guessing they are awaiting UL certification, or feel that it is not necessary for this device. It may have something to do with it being shipped with no cord attached.

Bill

https://onedrive.live.com/redir?resid=DA0BA371EB730687!25856&authkey=!AKkHFmsA-AmQl3c&ithint=folder%2c" onclick="window.open(this.href);return false;
 
QueenBee said:
dhanson865 said:
(that hopefully gets hidden away and never gets sold to anyone).
chris1howell said:
I am very sorry you had trouble with your build.

Interesting info but to be clear I've never tried making an open evse.

I'd be happy to taken your NONEXISTANT OpenEVSE parts off your hand and turn them into a new NONEXISTANT EVSE.

I was quoted out of context. I don't have any parts. I was using a phrase to describe a archetype such as "... and he looked more like a fighter pilot than a engine mechanic". The kind of stupid colorful phrase you might hear on a cop show or in a murder mystery. I obviously didn't use enough punctuation to delineate the color commentary.

You're going to have to use my words to build an EVSE if you want to use something that I failed with.

CAN I BE ANY MORE CLEAR THAT I HAVE NEVER TRIED TO BUILD AN EVSE?
 
dhanson865 said:
QueenBee said:
I'd be happy to taken your NONEXISTANT OpenEVSE parts off your hand and turn them into a new NONEXISTANT EVSE.

I was quoted out of context. I don't have any parts. I was using a phrase to describe a archetype such as "... and he looked more like a fighter pilot than a engine mechanic". The kind of stupid colorful phrase you might hear on a cop show or in a murder mystery. I obviously didn't use enough punctuation to delineate the color commentary.

You're going to have to use my words to build an EVSE if you want to use something that I failed with.

CAN I BE ANY MORE CLEAR THAT I HAVE NEVER TRIED TO BUILD AN EVSE?

Oh, now I see. You aren't the I who failed. I was figuring you failed before you even tried to build it. Any links to the people your were referring to who did fail?
 
MikeD said:
All the others (Siemens VersiCharge and Ecotality's Blink) ALWAYS require a 40a breaker regardless of a selected reduced output current, undoubtedly as a desirable extra measure of safety (to reduce the possibility of a breaker less than 40a inadvertently being used when the selected current draw x 125% is greater than that).
But if the wiring doesn't support that current, that's actually less safe... the breaker tripping is the least of someone's worries when installing an EVSE. If the breaker trips and something down the line doesn't meet or exceed the current capacity allowed by the breaker, that means the breaker is doing its job ;) I think GE is actually doing it right here.

(By the way, I've also got a GE DuraStation residential unit. Seems to do the trick, but that Hoffman case is way too deep for what it needs to be.)
 
ishiyakazuo: You are correct that I should have also mentioned and emphasized that 8 AWG (or the thicker 6 AWG, especially if required by code for, say, a long cable run) is also required along with the 40a breaker: from the current "Installation and Operations Manual": - Use 6-8 AWG, 75C copper wire to connect to supply circuit." and "- CAUTION: To reduce the risk of fire, connect only to a circuit provided with 40 amperes maximum branch circuit overcurrent protection in accordance with the ANSI/NFPA 70 National Electrical Code.".

To be clear it is saying do NOT use with wire thinner than 8 AWG, even if the VersiCharge's maximum current has been dialed down.

Where this can be useful is, say, you currently have only 100a service and your residence's excess electrical capacity is only 20a @ 240v and you want to buy a new Leaf and an EVSE to operate for now at 16a, but you anticipate eventually upgrading your service to 200a. Installing an EVSE like the VersiCharge would allow you to initially install it dialed down to 16a maximum (along with a dedicated circuit using 8 AWG wiring w/ 40a circuit breaker) so you are unlikely to trip your 100a main breaker, and when the service is upgraded, then you can reset the VersiCharge for a full 30a.

This type of EVSE may also be useful if you buy (or expect to buy) more than one EV, and your service can't (or wouldn't) adequately handle multiple EVs charging concurrently at full power.
 
Yep, that's the exact situation I'm in, actually. I've got 100A service, but the wiring to the load center is 6AWG. I've only got a single car garage though, so multiple EVs probably aren't in my future :)
 
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