What is a "Gid"?

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A Gid is roughly 75 watt-hours of stored energy... Perfect over time would no decrease whatsoever from new...

powersurge said:
I have just gotten the obd2 module and the Leafspy Pro app. I have read all of the responses on this thread, but still have not gotten the significance of the "GID". I understand that at full charge, a GID value of 281 is the highest possible, but I still would like to know the value of this information as time goes on. Is there a table of "perfect" values over time that shows that the battery is in good nick? I am not an electrical engineer so I think a lot of us would like to know how we can interpret the GIDS in our own cars?
 
powersurge said:
I have just gotten the obd2 module and the Leafspy Pro app. I have read all of the responses on this thread, but still have not gotten the significance of the "GID". I understand that at full charge, a GID value of 281 is the highest possible, but I still would like to know the value of this information as time goes on. Is there a table of "perfect" values over time that shows that the battery is in good nick? I am not an electrical engineer so I think a lot of us would like to know how we can interpret the GIDS in our own cars?

The Gid is actually more useful as a measure of available range, with approximately 3-4 Gids (or 1% of Gids) equaling approximately 1 mile of range.

Those of us who are more interested in capacity loss tend to focus on the AHr as our unit of measure.
 
So my first numbers on my 2015 Leaf with 12,000 miles seems to be ok...???

GIDS - 291
SOC - 97%
other % - 103.6%
volts - 396
KWh - 22.6
AH - 62.25

SO, Is that a good baseline to have as the future "ideal"

thank you for your responses.
 
Yes, your initial numbers are OK, right where they should be.

GIDs are really helpful when you're driving around below LBW and the GOM goes to flashing "---". At that point, GIDs are the only numerical readout of remaining energy that you have.
 
DNAinaGoodWay said:
...
GIDs are really helpful when you're driving around below LBW and the GOM goes to flashing "---". At that point, GIDs are the only numerical readout of remaining energy that you have.
You also have Remaining kWh and % SOC.
On the 2011 Remaining kWh is most important to know because Turtle always happens at Remaining 0.4 kWh.
High Voltage Pack Disconnect happens very quickly afterwards at Remaining 0.3 kWh.
 
TimLee said:
On the 2011 Remaining kWh is most important to know because Turtle always happens at Remaining 0.4 kWh.

Good to know. I've never allowed it to get to turtle, and wondered. I usually watch the big GID count when I'm on the low end, so 0.4 kWh would be around 5 GIDs? Shutoff just under 4?
 
mwalsh said:
The Gid is actually more useful as a measure of available range, with approximately 3-4 Gids (or 1% of Gids) equaling approximately 1 mile of range.

Those of us who are more interested in capacity loss tend to focus on the AHr as our unit of measure.

Would not AH and watt-hours be directly proportional?
 
TimLee said:
[
On the 2011 Remaining kWh is most important to know because Turtle always happens at Remaining 0.4 kWh.
This is rather curious as for the 2011 lots and lots of testing was done
to turtle to see how many gids where remaining. which varied from
around 4 to 8. Leaf spy energy remaining at least originally was based
strictly on gids. Has this changed to no longer being based on gids?
I used to watch the posts pretty closely, as I had built my own gid meter,
maybe I missed where this changed.
 
cliff said:
... Has this changed to no longer being based on gids?
I used to watch the posts pretty closely, as I had built my own gid meter,
maybe I missed where this changed.
Not sure it has changed.
I am just reporting the one parameter in LEAF Spy Pro that always correlates with Turtle and Pack Disconnect for my 2011 LEAF missing three capacity bars and has not had P3227 software change.
Based on several observations in past year and half.

For my LEAF GIDS is usually 6 at Turtle and 4 at pack disconnect.
Possible that GIDS and Remaining kWh are same with just units adjustment multiplier.
The slight GIDS variation at Turtle and Pack Disconnect could be just update delay or the precision of the value.
But every time Turtle has happened the Remaing kWh hit 0.4.
And Pack Disconnect it hit 0.3.
 
I saw 4 Gids consistently for shutdown (main contactor opening) on the 2011 both before and after P3227 software update. I also see 4 Gids consistently for shutdown on the 2015, but there is much more usable energy between 8 Gids and 4 Gids on the 2015. The open circuit voltage is also much lower at shutdown on the 2015 than on the 2011. The voltage at full charge ranges between 395.0 and 395.5 on the 2015 which is higher than the 2011 would reach (even when the replacement battery was new).

Gerry
 
GerryAZ said:
I saw 4 Gids consistently for shutdown (main contactor opening) on the 2011 both before and after P3227 software update. I also see 4 Gids consistently for shutdown on the 2015, but there is much more usable energy between 8 Gids and 4 Gids on the 2015. The open circuit voltage is also much lower at shutdown on the 2015 than on the 2011. The voltage at full charge ranges between 395.0 and 395.5 on the 2015 which is higher than the 2011 would reach (even when the replacement battery was new).

Gerry

snoqualmie 1 small.jpg

4 huh? hmm, this is what I got and haven't even hit turtle. This was yesterday. gotta think there is something else going on with shutdown besides GIDs

for the full story

http://daveinolywa.blogspot.com/2015/11/snoqualmie-falls.html
 
just read my leaf for the first time : jan/feb 2015 registered by Nissan UK - I bought it with 250 miles on it in December - now 5000 miles.

I have 97.1% SOC
65.41Ah
395.5v
284 GIDS (101%)
22kWh remaining
QC = 41
L1/L2 155

Doesnt look as good as some I have seen with 12-15000 miles and this area for GIDS :-(
 
oilit said:
just read my leaf for the first time : jan/feb 2015 registered by Nissan UK - I bought it with 250 miles on it in December - now 5000 miles.

I have 97.1% SOC
65.41Ah
395.5v
284 GIDS (101%)
22kWh remaining
QC = 41
L1/L2 155

Doesnt look as good as some I have seen with 12-15000 miles and this area for GIDS :-(

some 2015's go as high as 292 GIDs but you have to keep in mind these are not super accurate measurements and there are several environmental factors that can alter numbers slightly. the only real way to get a reading on your battery is to take measurements FREQ
UENTLY like every day. Don't take one set of numbers to heart. long at the averages.

finally; recent driving patterns can push the numbers up and down. what I would "concern" myself with is the kwh remaining. this is what gets you down the road. you are fine
 
oilit said:
thanks for the info !


Something to think about;

Now that my LEAF is pushing 26 months and 35,000 miles the days of ahr readings of

64.62
65.94
65.73
66.16

have faded to

61.11
60.21
60.82
61.55
60.02

but am I sad? no. The LEAF does what I wanted it to do but I don't have unrealistic expectations and I do have public charging options that are somewhat passable in most of the areas my job requires me to be. My only real complaint is poor public charging coverage.

FYI;

64.62 (on 3/23/16
65.94 (on 6/20/15)
65.73 (on 1/30/16)
66.16 (on 1/2/16)

61.11 (on 5/11/15)
60.21 (on 10/10/15)
60.82 (on 2/17/16)
61.55 (on 3/30/16)
60.02 (on 8/26/15)
 
Hi everyone,

I know this thread is a little old, but i just got to the point where i need to measure my real battery status, and not depend on the stupid, lying "bars". 2011 Leaf with about 36k on it.

I just bought the OBD II reader and the software. Here is what i get, remembering that my Leaf has 9 bars and has shown 9 bars for more than a year, all while range has been steadily decreasing. I get about 48 miles to a charge now, based on driving in Eco mode, and going side roads and no freeway.

Fully charged here are my readings:
GIDS: 183 (65.1 %)
SOC: 91.1%
Remain: 14.2 Kwh
Miles to 5%: 51.6 at 4 mi/kWh
40.96Ah
391.93 V

Battery cells image looks fine. All are between 4.074 and 4.092.

So, to me this means my battery is only at 65% of original capacity. But my understanding is that 9 bars is about 70%, so i would assume my bars should be at 8 or less easily.

Nissan says they wont even talk to me about a battery replacement until it hits 8 bars. My opinion is that they've just modified the software to not show 8 bars till as late as possible.

Any input/insights/feedback is welcome.

Thanks,

Andrew
 
Nissan says they wont even talk to me about a battery replacement until it hits 8 bars. My opinion is that they've just modified the software to not show 8 bars till as late as possible.

Is it by any chance still cold where you live? It seems apparent that Nissan has programmed the BMS to not update battery info in cold weather. If it is warm there, I'd say you are pretty much correct, and the BMS will wait as long as it can to report 8 bars at the dash.
 
andrewgrhogg said:
Hi everyone,

I know this thread is a little old, but i just got to the point where i need to measure my real battery status, and not depend on the stupid, lying "bars". 2011 Leaf with about 36k on it.

I just bought the OBD II reader and the software. Here is what i get, remembering that my Leaf has 9 bars and has shown 9 bars for more than a year, all while range has been steadily decreasing. I get about 48 miles to a charge now, based on driving in Eco mode, and going side roads and no freeway.

Fully charged here are my readings:
GIDS: 183 (65.1 %)
SOC: 91.1%
Remain: 14.2 Kwh
Miles to 5%: 51.6 at 4 mi/kWh
40.96Ah
391.93 V

Battery cells image looks fine. All are between 4.074 and 4.092.

So, to me this means my battery is only at 65% of original capacity. But my understanding is that 9 bars is about 70%, so i would assume my bars should be at 8 or less easily.

Nissan says they wont even talk to me about a battery replacement until it hits 8 bars. My opinion is that they've just modified the software to not show 8 bars till as late as possible.

Any input/insights/feedback is welcome.

Thanks,

Andrew

1) how in the hell can you be at 40.96 ahr and still have 9 bars??? have you done any recent SW updates? you are pretty much the lowest 9 bar reading I think I have ever seen or very near it.

2) your cells are NOT fine. an 18 mV delta at full charge shows very poor top end balancing. Could be a result of degradation (in my 2 LEAFs, I have had very little experience with that) a well balanced pack would be under 10 mV

either way, check the battery replacement threads. most are losing their bars in the 41-42 ahr range
 
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