gbarry42 said:
dhanson865 said:
I don't pay attention to GIDs
Is that because you don't believe they are useful, or you have some other favorite measurement, or is it that your driving doesn't require you to care?
Gids are not normalized, they vary from car to car. You have no idea when you walk up to the car what "full" is in GIDs.
%GIDs or %SOC look the same but have a difference that %GIDS is absolute and %SOC is relative.
The SOC shown on the dash is relative and the SOC shown in leafspy is relative, the SOC that charging completes at 80% or "100%" is relative.
I see no reason to think in two frames of reference when doing short convenience math. And I see no reason for 5+ frames of reference when I do more complicated math.
If I want absolutes I'll use watthours (Wh) or kilowatthours (kWh). Same thing different decimal placement.
Leafspy is happy enough to tell me that I spent 3487 Wh on my drive into work and I know that was a trip rom 80% SOC to 69% SOC.
Good enough for me, if I want to know efficiency I can look at miles/kWh or Wh/mile (same value just inverted aka reciprocal). That is also absolute but in a different frame of reference.
So if I want to know how much capacity is in my battery I look at kWh remaining when fully charged. I don't look at AHr or Gids.
And when I want to know if a bar will drop I look at SOH%. It's not as fine grained, but its a nice normalized to 100 number that is easy to think about. I only mention AHr and Hx for those that want the full details. I don't think it really helps the discussion. The trigger for actual bar loss might use AHr, HX, and SOC% for all we know or it may only use one or two of those. Since we don't know you could use any of the three and still be relatively accurate.
recap:
1.
SOC% for lazy mental math of how much of my charge did I spend on this trip and how much do I need to get back.
2.
kWh how much did I spend on that trip so I can compare year to year with absolutes to isolate degradation and compare to trips from prior years or vs other metrics.
3.
miles per kWh or Wh per mile to compare two trips of different lengths.
4.
SOH% to see where I am on battery health vs a new battery.