12v Battery

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jjeff said:
[For anyone who lives in the Midwest(MN, WI and maybe other places) Menards(similar to Home Depot or Lowes) has the above 12v charger on sale for the great price of $34.95, regularly the same as Amazon at $59.95. I picked one up(the last one on the shelf as best I could see) and they also had the cheaper version(1.1a regularly $39.95) for $24.99. Great prices IMO, I think it was a sale but it's also possible they are clearancing them out, I don't know. Glad I waited and didn't purchase one at Amazon :)

Menards is in 14 states. I can't think of a reason to avoid them. $35 sounds like a deal.
 
Coming up on 3 years with the OEM battery and have been looking around for a "plug and play" lithium - I came across this one:

http://www.lithiumion-batteries.com/products/12v-20ah-lithium-ion-battery/

Not cheap ($290) but I'd rather pay more for a better solution - anyone have any experience with this brand?
 
joeriv said:
Coming up on 3 years with the OEM battery and have been looking around for a "plug and play" lithium - I came across this one:

http://www.lithiumion-batteries.com/products/12v-20ah-lithium-ion-battery/

Not cheap ($290) but I'd rather pay more for a better solution - anyone have any experience with this brand?

Are there any issues with the OEM battery causing you to seek a better solution?

Do you periodically check the battery cells and top them off with distilled water?

Unless it is a hot environment, the OEM battery could last up to six years, if properly maintained.

The lithium battery in question is not a 'plug and play' solution, and would pay for three OEM style replacements. What I would consider a better solution than the OEM style, which is actually 'plug and play', is the Optima Yellow Top (D51R) battery, and it is only half the cost of the lithium unit.

I'm still using the original battery in my Leaf. It has about 3.5 years on it, so far, with minimal issues. I had some trouble when I first got the car, but after topping off the cells with distilled water (each down about a third), there have been no issues.
 
baustin said:
Are there any issues with the OEM battery causing you to seek a better solution?

Do you periodically check the battery cells and top them off with distilled water?

Unless it is a hot environment, the OEM battery could last up to six years, if properly maintained.

The lithium battery in question is not a 'plug and play' solution, and would pay for three OEM style replacements. What I would consider a better solution than the OEM style, which is actually 'plug and play', is the Optima Yellow Top (D51R) battery, and it is only half the cost of the lithium unit.

I'm still using the original battery in my Leaf. It has about 3.5 years on it, so far, with minimal issues. I had some trouble when I first got the car, but after topping off the cells with distilled water (each down about a third), there have been no issues.
Not until recently did I notice that the overflow for acid from the battery drops right down on some bolts and parts of the Leaf frame and front suspension system. I saw this in a 2015 Leaf that a family member owns. We removed the battery, used some baking soda to clean up the acid and neutralize it, but still I think the overflow acid needs to go somewhere else. It really makes the places it lands on look nasty while the rest of the car looks clean and new. So if any issue with the liquid lead batteries, overflow acid is not sent to a good place. That is just my opinion.

My issue with my Leaf years back was that my stock battery was nearly going dead in cold weather. The battery seems healthy on a volt meter, but a capacity test showed over-wise. The stock batteries are rated 36 AH I believe (someone correct me if I remember wrong) but I did the actual 20 hour test and my stock battery was barely hitting 11 AH. While it was still enough to start the Leaf, I had to make sure to drive it at least once every few days or else the battery dies in the winter. The battery was only 2 years old, so I don't know what conditions caused it to perform so poorly. I suspect that and others might feel the same way, that a lot of the Lead batteries in Leaf would also perform poorly in a real capacity test but most drivers use the vehicle frequently enough not to notice.

If you put the stock Lead under a load test, even the new ones only seem to last about 20 to 30 minutes before depleted. The test being, just put the vehicle in standby mode (not accessory mode) and just run the fan on high. When the battery hits depleted (10.5 volts), the Leaf will kick on the large battery to charge it up and flash a single Blue light on the dash while it does. So anyone can do this test without fear of killing the Leaf by accident. It's a low tech way to test.

My stock Lead could only do this about 10 minutes before being depleted. My Lithium can do the same test for nearly 2 hours before hitting the point of needing a recharge.

So while the cost factor can make Lead cheaper to rotate out replacements, I still think Lithium is the perfect match up for this type of vehicle, even given the extra cost. Having one less thing to maintenance is worth the saved time and effort for me. The Leaf had so much work put into making it as maintenance free as possible, seems the battery should join that part one day in the future.
 
joeriv said:
Coming up on 3 years with the OEM battery and have been looking around for a "plug and play" lithium - I came across this one:

http://www.lithiumion-batteries.com/products/12v-20ah-lithium-ion-battery/

Not cheap ($290) but I'd rather pay more for a better solution - anyone have any experience with this brand?

Very similar to what I have in AHr capacity. Don't know how the built-in BMS compares to what I have, but the price is definitely cheaper (by almost half). I highly recommend "getting the lead out".
 
joeriv said:
Coming up on 3 years with the OEM battery and have been looking around for a "plug and play" lithium - I came across this one:

http://www.lithiumion-batteries.com/products/12v-20ah-lithium-ion-battery/

Not cheap ($290) but I'd rather pay more for a better solution - anyone have any experience with this brand?


I would research the "BPS" concept rather than a full fledged "BMS". As you know, the Lithium technology, like lead acid, uses multiple cells in series to produce the nominal 12 VDC. A true BMS will attempt to keep all cells fairly well balanced. It MAY BE that the "BPS" does nothing more than disconnect the battery if the battery voltage goes either too high of too low. Check it out and let us know.
 
RegGuheert said:
I noticed it had sulfated about 40% after the first couple of years. Since then I have used a desulfating charger to try to recover the original capacity, which I had done as of last year. Now it is down just a bit. I don't know if that can be recovered or not. We'll see.
Just a quick update. I have been pretty consistent this summer about putting the LEAF's 12V battery on the BatteryMinder 1500 whenever it is parked at home. It seems to have eliminated all or nearly all of the lead sulfate which had hardened in the battery. Now the battery will stand at over 12.7V after being charged to full and allowed to stand for a day or so. (In the past, this same battery would droop to 12.4V or so under the same conditions.)
 
RegGuheert said:
RegGuheert said:
I noticed it had sulfated about 40% after the first couple of years. Since then I have used a desulfating charger to try to recover the original capacity, which I had done as of last year. Now it is down just a bit. I don't know if that can be recovered or not. We'll see.
Just a quick update. I have been pretty consistent this summer about putting the LEAF's 12V battery on the BatteryMinder 1500 whenever it is parked at home. It seems to have eliminated all or nearly all of the lead sulfate which had hardened in the battery. Now the battery will stand at over 12.7V after being charged to full and allowed to stand for a day or so. (In the past, this same battery would droop to 12.4V or so under the same conditions.)
Appreciate the update as an encouragement. I've used a CTEK a few times on the weekend. I'd inadvertently left the OBD reader plugged in for 16 day to find a drained 12V battery. With a 2011 wondered if I'd just killed the lead acid battery, but so far, it's holding voltage... Wouldn't want to push it under load though.. We'll see... Thanks..
 
JimSouCal said:
Appreciate the update as an encouragement. I've used a CTEK a few times on the weekend. I'd inadvertently left the OBD reader plugged in for 16 day to find a drained 12V battery. With a 2011 wondered if I'd just killed the lead acid battery, but so far, it's holding voltage... Wouldn't want to push it under load though.. We'll see... Thanks..
I think I had sulfation that had hardened for YEARS, but it seems it has finally been returned to "active duty". The key to desulfating a battery is "patience". It takes quite a bit of time for the sulfation to get broken up. I do think desulfating works better in the heat of summer. I'm not convinced it does much in the wintertime.

Today, I charged the 12V battery to full and then drove it. When I returned, I put a voltmeter on the 12V battery and it rose up to 12.85V after about an hour. I have *never* seen this battery go to such a high voltage after shutting off the LEAF. That's the kind of voltage I tend to see only with brand new flooded batteries.
 
RegGuheert said:
JimSouCal said:
Appreciate the update as an encouragement. I've used a CTEK a few times on the weekend. I'd inadvertently left the OBD reader plugged in for 16 day to find a drained 12V battery. With a 2011 wondered if I'd just killed the lead acid battery, but so far, it's holding voltage... Wouldn't want to push it under load though.. We'll see... Thanks..
I think I had sulfation that had hardened for YEARS, but it seems it has finally been returned to "active duty". The key to desulfating a battery is "patience". It takes quite a bit of time for the sulfation to get broken up. I do think desulfating works better in the heat of summer. I'm not convinced it does much in the wintertime.

Today, I charged the 12V battery to full and then drove it. When I returned, I put a voltmeter on the 12V battery and it rose up to 12.85V after about an hour. I have *never* seen this battery go to such a high voltage after shutting off the LEAF. That's the kind of voltage I tend to see only with brand new flooded batteries.
I am left to wonder WHY modern cars, especially the LEAF, don't have an integrated desulfication routine? Perhaps because less lead acid batteries would be sold? Humm....
 
JimSouCal said:
RegGuheert said:
JimSouCal said:
Appreciate the update as an encouragement. I've used a CTEK a few times on the weekend. I'd inadvertently left the OBD reader plugged in for 16 day to find a drained 12V battery. With a 2011 wondered if I'd just killed the lead acid battery, but so far, it's holding voltage... Wouldn't want to push it under load though.. We'll see... Thanks..
I think I had sulfation that had hardened for YEARS, but it seems it has finally been returned to "active duty". The key to desulfating a battery is "patience". It takes quite a bit of time for the sulfation to get broken up. I do think desulfating works better in the heat of summer. I'm not convinced it does much in the wintertime.

Today, I charged the 12V battery to full and then drove it. When I returned, I put a voltmeter on the 12V battery and it rose up to 12.85V after about an hour. I have *never* seen this battery go to such a high voltage after shutting off the LEAF. That's the kind of voltage I tend to see only with brand new flooded batteries.
I am left to wonder WHY modern cars, especially the LEAF, don't have an integrated desulfication routine? Perhaps because less lead acid batteries would be sold? Humm....
They don't run long enough to be useful. It takes a lot of time to break up the sulfur.
 
It would be best if the LEAF simply kept the 12V battery properly charged. Then there would be little or no need for desulfating.
 
JimSouCal said:
RegGuheert said:
JimSouCal said:
Appreciate the update as an encouragement. I've used a CTEK a few times on the weekend. I'd inadvertently left the OBD reader plugged in for 16 day to find a drained 12V battery. With a 2011 wondered if I'd just killed the lead acid battery, but so far, it's holding voltage... Wouldn't want to push it under load though.. We'll see... Thanks..
I think I had sulfation that had hardened for YEARS, but it seems it has finally been returned to "active duty". The key to desulfating a battery is "patience". It takes quite a bit of time for the sulfation to get broken up. I do think desulfating works better in the heat of summer. I'm not convinced it does much in the wintertime.

Today, I charged the 12V battery to full and then drove it. When I returned, I put a voltmeter on the 12V battery and it rose up to 12.85V after about an hour. I have *never* seen this battery go to such a high voltage after shutting off the LEAF. That's the kind of voltage I tend to see only with brand new flooded batteries.
I am left to wonder WHY modern cars, especially the LEAF, don't have an integrated desulfication routine? Perhaps because less lead acid batteries would be sold? Humm....

I think if you look at http://www.mynissanleaf.com/viewtopic.php?f=9&t=19471 you'll see the Leaf does desulphate, it just doesn't keep the battery charged enough for that desulphation phase to keep up with the sulphation caused by low charge. It's a long thread so I'm not sure where in the thread it was mentioned, worth a read if you are curious.
 
A 12 V lead-storage battery consists of six cells, each producing approximately 2 V. The actual standard cell potential is obtained from the standard reduction potentials. Modern SLI batteries are lead-acid type and provide 12.6 volts of direct current, nominally 12 V. The battery is actually six small batteries, or cells, connected in series. The 12-volt car battery is the most recycled product in the world.
 
dhanson865 said:
1. ...You might have to spray some water on the wipers/glass first or use the wiper fluid occasionally to keep from shredding the wipers.

You could always lift the wipers off the glass. Then they could dance instead of drag :)
 
I have a 2013 with 45k I drive 88 miles round trip to work 5 days a week charge twice a day and have never even thought that the lead battery could be an issue. I drive there at 3 and home at 11pm so in Upstate NY it's fairly easy on the batteries. They're always used, always warm and I hadn't had an issue yet. I will definitely check now. I'm coming up on my 3rd winter now so I'm expecting some kind of issues. Good thing I came across this post. Id hate to be stuck in 10 degree F weather because my stupid electric car that I charge twice a day can't maintain a lead batt.
 
RegGuheert said:
It would be best if the LEAF simply kept the 12V battery properly charged. Then there would be little or no need for desulfating.

Correct. Older Leaf (charger in the trunk) had this algorithm for 12V charging:
Always charging while vehicle is ON.
Always charging if vehicle is charging HV battery.
Always charging if vehicle is preheating/precooling.
Automatic charge after 120 hours of nothing happening (5 days) for 5 minutes.


Nissan most likely noticed a big problem with that and new Leaf (charger under the hood) works that way:
Always charging while vehicle is on.
Always charging if vehicle is charging HV battery.
Always charging if vehicle is preheating/precooling.
Automatic charge after 24 hours of nothing happening (1 day) for 4 minutes.
This solved the problem in most scenarios.


For those who own older Leaf, ran out of warranty and plan to keep the Leaf for longer period I would STRONGLY recommend
to replace 12V battery with AGM 12V battery next time.
It costs more but it offers more reliability, especially in this
lousy situation: Leaf draining battery for 5 days and then charging it only for 5 minutes :(
AGM battery is capable to survive deeper discharges with less sulfation happening.
AGM battery is capable to absorb charge faster than regular flooded battery, especially in cold temperatures. Therefore it is able to absorb more during 5 minute period.
 
I got this for my birthday (rather than socks!). It will stay in my trunk. Great backup for my smart phone charging (battery going bad in it). I have an emergency generator (6500 watts) with electric start. Hoping this will start it - (it's not an easy start). Will post results. I'm quite sure it will enable the Leaf's 12 volt system - even with a dead battery.

https://www.amazon.com/DBPOWER-1200...t_3?ie=UTF8&psc=1&refRID=D9NS1P6X3THSGXPMMA69
 
Some corrections:
arnis said:
Older Leaf (charger in the trunk) had this algorithm for 12V charging:
Always charging while vehicle is ON.
I'll assume you actually mean READY in Nissan's terminology. Not so. The LEAF only charges for a few seconds and then spends the rest of the time at a float voltage of 13.1V. The exception is that the vehicle actually charges the battery at about 14.5V whenenever the windshield wipers are on.
arnis said:
Always charging if vehicle is charging HV battery.
Not so. As above, it normally charges for only a few seconds and then drops to a float voltage of 13.1V for the rest of the time. The exception here is that it sometimes charges during the ful charging period. It appears this happens during very cold temperatures, but perhaps it also happens occasionally at other times.
arnis said:
Always charging if vehicle is preheating/precooling.
While I haven't measure it, I strongly suspect this case is similar to the charging case listed above.
arnis said:
Automatic charge after 120 hours of nothing happening (5 days) for 5 minutes.
Unfortunately, this has very little effect on the SOC of the battery since five minutes is not enough time to do much of anything with a 12V lead-acid battery.
arnis said:
Nissan most likely noticed a big problem with that and new Leaf (charger under the hood) works that way:
Always charging while vehicle is on.
Always charging if vehicle is charging HV battery.
Always charging if vehicle is preheating/precooling.
From what I have read, the MY2013 and later use exactly the same algorithm as listed above for the MY2011-2012. The difference seems to be that those later LEAFs appear to also have a programming defect which occasionally leaves a load on when the car is turned off which drains the battery, just adding to the problem of keeping the 12V battery alive.
arnis said:
Automatic charge after 24 hours of nothing happening (1 day) for 4 minutes.
Thanks, I didn't know about this change. It's better than nothing, but, again, 5 minutes is hardly worth the effort, IMO.
arnis said:
This solved the problem in most scenarios.
I don't think so. It seems the MY2013 and later LEAFs have at least as many problems with the 12V battery as the earlier models, if not more.
arnis said:
For those who own older Leaf, ran out of warranty and plan to keep the Leaf for longer period I would STRONGLY recommend
to replace 12V battery with AGM 12V battery next time.
It costs more but it offers more reliability, especially in this
lousy situation: Leaf draining battery for 5 days and then charging it only for 5 minutes :(
AGM battery is capable to survive deeper discharges with less sulfation happening.
Sorry, but I do not agree with the advice of switching to an AGM battery. Unfortunately, 13.1V is a DISCHARGE voltage for many new AGM batteries. I have one that is several years old now that sits around at 13.25V for MONTHS at a time. As you can see, the LEAF will actually DISCHARGE an AGM battery in normal operations. Additionally, my experience is that AGMs tend to sulfate FASTER than flooded batteries. I am currently trying to recover several 400 Ah AGMs which were 75% sulfated after only about three years of use. I have read of other similar experiences with AGMs.
arnis said:
AGM battery is capable to absorb charge faster than regular flooded battery, especially in cold temperatures.
This is true. What is perhaps more important for those who live in very cold climates is that AGMs freeze at a MUCH lower temperature when they are mostly discharged. Unfortunately, a flooded lead-acid battery will freeze at about 17F if fully discharged. In my experience, freezing often ruins the battery.
arnis said:
Therefore it is able to absorb more during 5 minute period.
Perhaps, but it is still not nearly long enough.
 
13.1V is definitely charging voltage. Though it is way too low for occasional use.
Is it verified with multimeter? 13.1V might be reported by LeafSpy but what about real voltage @terminals.
I checked my 2014 Leaf with voltmeter and clamp-on DC ampmeter, it charges as it is written in the literature.

Maybe you have deep cycle AGM battery? On vehicles I've never seen that kind of resting voltage.
BMW uses AGM batteries for a decade already. Almost all start-stop vehicles use AGM type.
I bought a second hand AGM battery that was tortured by 5-series for 6 years. It has more than 55% life left.

Depending on how discharged battery is it can swallow up to 4Ah during that period.

I will verify my observations in near future but I'm pretty sure 2014 Leaf does NOT have 12V battery problems.

PS! AGM batteries do not sulfate faster than flooded. Also their sulfation is not thick due to absorption mats inside.
And lead acid batteries should not sulfate AT ALL if used properly.
 
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