Problem installing Daytime running lights

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Ok so I plugged the car in, started charging and had to go do something. 30 minutes later, I completed this, so went to go check on the car, and sure enough, the lights were off.

So I'm guessing that the lights stay on longer than the default behavior (30 seconds?), because for the first few minutes, the vehicle maintains power in order to communicate with CarWings (it's also when you hear that electric hum, as mentioned in my previous posts).

After a few minutes, this shuts off (you can even hear the relay iirc), and I'm guessing 30 seconds later, the lights do turn off.

I'll try to check for this the next time I plug it in, but it looks like the way I wired them will work just fine.
 
Ok, thanks for the update.

I also received a reply from Philips, that the blue wire to the 57 should solve these issues.

Have also plugged the car, the lights went on, and went to watch a movie. When I came back to check, the charge was complete so the lights were off too. So still I cannot verify that they turn after some time while charging. Will also have to observe more often next time I charge.
 
Well I confirmed it should work, so at least there is hope ;)

I'm surprised you are getting help from Philips. They don't want to support the US market, especially now that they have spun off the lighting product lines into a separate company.

Where did you mount the controller? I dropped mine into the bracket that holds the 12V battery (and tied down the wire with a zip-tie as a backup).

How do you like the lights? Any trouble installing them? Any regrets?

I love mine, but I wish there was a better location (like the Nissan LEAF Nismo bumper).
 
lion said:
Well I confirmed it should work, so at least there is hope ;)

I'm surprised you are getting help from Philips. They don't want to support the US market, especially now that they have spun off the lighting product lines into a separate company.

Where did you mount the controller? I dropped mine into the bracket that holds the 12V battery (and tied down the wire with a zip-tie as a backup).

How do you like the lights? Any trouble installing them? Any regrets?

I love mine, but I wish there was a better location (like the Nissan LEAF Nismo bumper).

Actually I am from Europe, but still contacted US consumer care and received an answer by email. They even suggested to contact them again if I have some additional questions :)

I mounted the controller in the very front, under the removable plastic cover. There was a second flat plastic conver down below with a lot of empty space around, so I just used two screws to firmly attach the controller. It looks very stable. And also the wires from the LEDs had to go a very short way.

I really like the lights. Although following the bumpers curve they are not pointed directly forward, so the best brightness of each one is a little to each side. But maybe that not so bad - the car is super visible from the angle (pedestrians etc.). I really like that the color of the LEDs perfectly matches with car lights, so during night it looks like one system lighting and I can easily recognize my car from far away, when wife is using it.

It was really tough installing them on LEAFs bumper, as the bracket design coulb be better - I bought a special angle attachment for my 12V screw driver, however the lower hole of the bracket was so tiny, I could not fit any "screw head" (don't know how to call them proprely) through it. So I had to use some force and use a simple screw driver doing it from an angle. That way, one of the brackets moved from the original position while doing it and the lights are not 100 percent perfectly alligned. So this is my only regret - before pushing the lights in, I didn't meassure exact distances of mounted brackets. Witout the lights in, it was not visible, and after that, it was too late. But it really worried me only the first day. Now I don't notice it any more, as following the curve of the bumper put's the lights in a discrete position (I think it might be otherwise if they would be perfectly straight and one side would stick out).

Yes Nismo bumper would be nice, and the location probably better, however current location is also ok, as it's quite unique among other vehicles I see and looks fine.

Before installing I was making a decision between these Philips and others Osram - which would have been a much more OEM choice and maybe would have looked more cool, but they were more than two times more expensive. They are fitted instad of FOG lights, but have double fuction as daylight lights and as FOG lights. They even have side lighting when you turn.

20113d1378413394-replace-oe-fog-lights-fog-drl-turning-assist-combo-ledriving-drl-lit.jpg

osram_ledriving_fog_drl_hmlovky_s-dennym-svietenim_1.jpg

HTB12QSyFVXXXXX3XXXXq6xXFXXXh.jpg


And from what information I found, would fit LEAF without problems. However installing them would be more difficult than Philips. And since I am something very far from a technician, I decided to go the simpler path :)
 
When I was working we had a battery timer in police cars. It was supposed to sense the voltage change when the car was started but it was very erratic. It did have a wire to connect to the switched accessory buss and that worked fine. Does your module include an acc wire? If it does I recommend using it.
 
The blue wire in this philips box is supposed to be something like that, specially made for hybrid/electric/start-stop vehicles, where monitoring the 12V battery load is not enough to know when the vehicle is on and working. However even after connecting it to ignition fuse, I still get the lights on when charging. Today I checked, and after ~1hour of charging the LEDs were still on...

Does anyone really know - does the 57th ignition fuse in the PDM get power when the vehicle is charging? Everytime I try to meassure or connect/disconnect wire from this fuse, I get the vehicle blocked with I-key error situation.

Is there any easy way to get a 12V ACC connection inside the hood?
 
Sorry, as I recall all of the under hood fuses are continuous voltage. It is easy to run a wire through the grommet behind the fuse box. The fuse holder to the left of the driver has acc and switched power on it. Just use an add a fuse for a clean installation. They are on Ebay if you can wait or at Auto Zone for instant gratification. At Auto Zone I think they are slightly less that $10. Half that from China via Ebay.
 
lipcius said:
The blue wire in this philips box is supposed to be something like that, specially made for hybrid/electric/start-stop vehicles, where monitoring the 12V battery load is not enough to know when the vehicle is on and working. However even after connecting it to ignition fuse, I still get the lights on when charging. Today I checked, and after ~1hour of charging the LEDs were still on...

Does anyone really know - does the 57th ignition fuse in the PDM get power when the vehicle is charging? Everytime I try to meassure or connect/disconnect wire from this fuse, I get the vehicle blocked with I-key error situation.

Is there any easy way to get a 12V ACC connection inside the hood?

I don't have this issue, so something else is up. Can you please confirm how you wired everything?

Those Osrams look nice, I did not see those when researching DRLs. Do you have a model # ?

Sorry to hear about the installation problems. I had the same exact issues (as you saw in my amazon review). While the bumper is curved, it only affects the look if you are standing right in front of the vehicle. But the same can be said for most DRLs on other vehicles (I did a lot of comparing). From a distance, these lights look awesome, which is what I was going for.
 
I have the red and black connected directly to the battery, the orange to the parking light wire (very close to the battery) and the blue to the PDM 57th IGN red wire.

Have you connected your blue wire from the first time? I'm thinking if it might be a reason that I drove the car for couple of days before connecting the blue wire, and the Philips box might have remembered the batteries Voltages from then, and still uses the same algorithm to decide when the car is on or off. I might be wrong, but I read somewhere that these Philips control boxes are intelligent with memory of the batteries behavior etc... However before connecting the blue wire, I had the Philips disconnected for some 5-10 minutes, so I was hoping this "memory" would have been erased.

The Osrams are these :
http://www.osram.com/osram_com/news-and-knowledge/automotive-special/automotive-design-lamps---eye-catchers-with-that-stylish-look/automotive-lighting---stylish-and-trendy/fog-lights-retrofit-or-upgrade-to-led/ledriving-fog---led-fog-lights/index.jsp" onclick="window.open(this.href);return false;

I am not worried by the install anymore too. They look really nice when on, and discrete when off. You would really have to know where to look, to notice the flaw in symmetry when looking from a distance. However I am more concerned now that if they will last me just several years, how would I remove them without damaging the bumper :)
 
So it seems I finally solved my problem. Here's what I did.

I checked that IGN (57) fuse really gives 12V only when the car is on, and is passive when the car is charging. Also I found out why I always had a I-key fault when working with fuse 57. I feel a little stupid, but the problem was not the fuse, but the relay itself, which was disconnected when I removed the PDM box (because of shorter wires) and pushed back, when the PDM was in place.

So I connected my red cable from Philips to the red wire of fuse 57 (IGN) instead of the + battery. Now my LEDs turn on only when the car is on. Everything else seems to be working fine too.

However there is a slight downside of this - the daylights are turned off the same second the car is turned off, so I do not have anymore the nice feature when previously the lights were lit some 30 seconds after the car was shut off. But for me that's a much smaller downside than wasting the 5000h lifetime of Philips at night in the garage :)

p.s. I am still surprised why the Philips were not working correctly when the blue cable was connected to the IGN fuse. Maybe because I drove it for couple of days without blue wire connected and the box memorized the preferences of the battery's voltage, thus connecting the blue cable didn't override them. If anybody finds that out, please let me know. I left the possibility to connect the Philips back how originally intended.

Good luck.
 
Yes, I had the blue wire connected since day 1. Personally, I'm not comfortable powering these lights directly from that #57 wire, but I haven't done the math, and it might not be a problem at all (ignoring any potential 12V monitoring/balancing issues).

But if it works, and you're happy, then you are all set!

So the big question is, would you buy these again? ;)
 
Well, seems a lot of people from that thread connected the power directly to #57 wire and didn't report any problems http://www.mynissanleaf.com/viewtopic.php?f=37&t=6134" onclick="window.open(this.href);return false;

It works so far so good, haven't had any issues. And from what I have read elsewhere, connecting anything directly to the battery is not the best solution either, as at least a minor battery drain happens that way constantly. Worst thing is that connected like this you are possibly not advised to leave the car for a couple of weeks without using it (going on holiday) as you might find a dead battery when you get back, which will need replacing. Connecting it directly to IGN wire eliminates the possibility of draining the battery when the car is off. Furthermore, I read in Philips manual, that if you experience such problems as LEDs going on/off with ignition on, it's legal to connect the red wire to IGN wire directly.

I am also happy about the Philips customer care so far. I have updated them with the situation and they replied quite fast forwarding my letter to some specialist Jeff, who I hope will answer me soon with ideas about why the blue cable didn't work or how to reset the Philips control box.

About buying these again - I think I would. I am super satisfied with how they look, especially in the dark. I would maybe consider Led fog Osrams, if they wouldn't be more than twice expensive. However for 115 Euros this Philips model is definately a worthy buy. (I am happy I didn't choose the dotted LEDs as every other car, older than 10 years, drives in my country with such installed. This single light solution looks way better on a LEAF for my taste).
 
Just got a set of Philips Daylight 8's for my 2013 leaf.

Found your great post , regarding the problems of these DLR's coming on when vehicle is charged.

I don't want that either. Seems that you are happy with the setup now, as the
DLR's don't come on during charging. ( but sure would be nice to stay on for 30 secs or so )
But since #57 wire cuts out power immediately after the Leaf is turned off, it'll have to do.

BTW Looks like #57 is on a 10amp fuse ( that should'd be a problem with the DLR's
right? ) I'm currently running Ebay El cheap o LED DLRS off of #57 for 2 weeks, without issues.

So to sum up, you tapped into #57 wire ( in the IPDM) to the Philips RED wire ( + )
Where did you hook up the Philips BLACK Wire ( - ) ? did you use #18 in the IPDM or can the
Philips wire hook to Chassis GND.

Then you tapped the Orange Philips wire to the Leaf's Low beam headlight
( wire # 51 or #52 in IPDM )

Does this hook up give the desired results? Lights dim when headlights are turned on?

so there is NO need to hook up the Philips BLUE wire?

Thanks for all your trouble shooting.
 
Pretty good thread--thanks!

Ok, I'm set to help a LEAF friend (major DIY guy who didn't want to hire my tech) install a couple 6-LED strips to the upper front grille...

He also bought some add-a-circuit units (different brand than mentioned earlier):
https://www.amazon.com/Littelfuse-FHM200BP-mini-fuse-Add-A-Circuit-Kit/dp/B000FIWAP0/

We'd prefer to use this type of "add-a-circuit" or "add-a-fuse" device to power my DRLs from #57 wire, instead of stripping the wire & soldering and would NEVER recommend using those blue "snap" wire taps--auto mechanics and electronics techs HATE those things for various issues with dependability. Plus they're huge!

Is there a way to do this, with the add-a-circuit, either for #57 in the PDM? Or does #72 (referenced earlier in this thread with a link to 2 pictures of the "firewall" fusebox) work better??
https://onedrive.live.com/?authkey=...87!26826&parId=DA0BA371EB730687!26881&o=OneUp





.
 
March 12, 2017 UPDATE:
Ok, yesterday we wired his 2013 LEAF SV w/Halogen headlights (no QC) using an add-a-fuse/add-a-circuit from the ebay:
http://www.ebay.com/itm/201551151323
These were surprisingly well made, with 15 amp fuses to boot!

Installed the fuse in the box between battery & firewall in #72. We checked this #72 ACC circuit using a voltmeter before wiring. NO PROBLEM - no current with LEAF off & 12V with LEAF on. This was exactly what we were hoping for (but read on, as that's not the end of the story).

Wired up something similar to these TWO-WIRE ONLY 6-LED strips (wires are really tiny gauge, around 20-22 awg):
http://www.ebay.com/itm/121670119844

And don't forget this 3M double-sided tape for mounting the bracket (you might not even need to use self-tapping screws to hold the light metal brackets in place because the LEDs are so light):
http://www.ebay.com/itm/252570225128

SAME EXACT PROBLEM AS THIS THREAD'S OP
LED DRLs work great and look great when LEAFs "ignition" or "accessory" power is on, BUT when J1772 nozzle is inserted into LEAF for L1 or L2, THE DRLs ILLUMINATE and the charger doesn't even need to be powered--just plugging it into the LEAF activates the DRL from Fuse #72!! However, when the LEAF is fully charged, the DRLs do go off, but if you remove the charger & reinsert it into the nose, the DRLs come back on again and stay on until the blue charging lights on the dash go out.

So, we guess it's back to the PDM a wire #57 (which my tech has wired many LEAF LEDs to in the past with no "charging activation" problems)... BUT, we would still like to use an add-a-circuit on wire #57, INSTEAD OF SPLICING THE WIRE SO WE CAN HAVE A DEDICATED FUSE, AND ESPECIALLY, NOT MESS WITH THE HARNESS.

DOES ANYONE KNOW WHICH FUSE IN THE PDM WOULD TAP #57 for an add-a-circuit??
 
No idea which fuse to tap #57 wire, but perhaps you could disconnect the white plug, to which the #57 wire runs, and tease out the individual pin/terminal for that one wire. You should be able to solder on a new wire to that pin/terminal, if you can get it out of the white plug.

The plugs for the ground and #57 wires are shown here:

6224887873_c4a6a33257_z.jpg


Good luck!
 
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