2012 SL or 2013 S

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cyberyeh

Member
Joined
Jun 10, 2017
Messages
13
Location
San Diego
New to this forum and the world of EV. Been reading lots of posts but still wanted to get everyone's opinion. I live in Los Angeles and found a 2012 SL and a 2013 S with quick charge option for about the same price, $6500, and the same miles, 37,000, and the same 10 bars at full charge. Should I buy the 2012 fully loaded SL, or the newer 2013 model S?
 
Can you update your location info via your user name in the upper right > User Control Panel > Profile tab? That way, we don't need to ask in future posts/threads or do sleuthing to deduce it. (Yes, I see that you live in LA.)

What are your daily driving needs in terms of miles? How much city vs. highway? Will you have the ability to charge at your work/destinations?

What is the original in-service date on each? Where did each reside before (per Carfax and/or Autocheck)? What was the build month, esp. on the '13? You did properly count the capacity bars, including the red ones, correct? http://www.electricvehiclewiki.com/File:Scott_3_bars_s.jpg is a 3 bar loser.

They both sound relatively cheap but 10 bars isn't great. It would be great if you can buy a car that will make it down to 8 bars before the 5 year/60K mile battery capacity warranty runs out --> free replacement battery.
 
As an owner of both, I'd say get the '13.
+'s to '13-
Much better heater and a way to turn it off, although living in LA heater might not be that big of a deal.
SOC% display, no SOC display on '12, only more woefully inaccurate GOM.
Much nicer seat fabric, well unless you like velvet smooth very light seats of the '12 that show EVERYTHING!
Double the speed L2 charging, shop for 1hr gain 30% battery, it's about half on the '12
Tad less storage room in the rear due to location of charger
4th button on FOB to open charge port door, the '12 is mechanical and must be pulled inside the car
More regen, although this may be because my '12 has 10 bars and my '13 is full at 12.
No IRRITATING nag screen EVERYTIME you start the car for NAV and no need to double shift to get into ECO mode


+'s to '12
More features such as Cruise Control, ability to stream audio via Bluetooth, photochromatic rear view mirror, build in universal garage door opener on rear view mirror, rear hatch storage cover/shelf,
A bit peppier, could be a benefit for some although I prefer not
Select magnesium body panels, no rust?? although in LA rust probably isn't an issue
Mag rims, although I prefer steel for less air leaks
Electric parking break, I never use it so I could care less, others may feel differently
Slightly better sounding stereo, comparing base stereo to base stereo
NAV if you use it, I use my phone
Larger backup camera/functions screen, backup screen also has nicer lines that move when you turn the wheel
Auto on headlights and brighter LEDs, no LEDs on '13S
 
cyberyeh said:
the newer 2013 model S?
What *month* in 2013 was it built? You know that the batteries was changed starting in April 2013? March 2013 and earlier have batteries that degrade faster.

If it is a pre-April 2013 and really has already lost two bars and you are planning to try to degrade the battery in time to get a new one under warranty, the (presumably) later in-service date gives you more months (but not more miles) to do that. If you just want the existing battery to last as long as possible, "don't get anything built before April 2013" would be the conventional wisdom, I believe.
 
Thanks everybody for replying. I live in Pasadena and will use the car in local commute no more than 40 miles a day, with occasionally highway driving of 80 miles maybe once a month. The 2013 is pre-April. I thought the battery warranties are 10 year/100,000 miles and exchange at 9 bars? Sounds like I won't be able to get the battery down to 8 bars for either car under warranty.
 
You only have 5 years or 60k miles from the "in service" date, which is when the car was first registered to drive. So you need to check that on the 2013. Think of them as the same car with different features, because they have, in effect, the same battery. Both will lose capacity fairly fast in LA.
 
It turns out the 2012 SL has a new battery with 12 bars and 44000 miles on it, but the price is $8800 after tax/license/dealer fees, is this worth buying? Or should I get the September built 2013 S with quick charge and 10 bars and 37000 miles for $6800 after all fees? Also found a 2012 SL with 9 bars with warranty expiring on 10/10/17 with 36000 miles for $7000 after all fees, any chance I can get this one down to 8 bars before October 10?
 
There is certainly a chance, and a Hot summer would even make it likely, but there are no guarantees. Get the car with the features you like most. Just try to avoid getting a pre-4/2013 battery, with the possible exception of the 9 bar 2012.
 
I got the 2012 SL with 9 bars because it was a much cleaner car and more options than the 2013 S. What's the fastest way to get the batteries to 8 bars before October 10th? The owner told me to deplete the battery a few times and then use DC quick charge at charging stations should do it, or leave it out in the hot sun. Any thoughts on this?
 
Basically do the opposite most people on this forum are doing to their battery to make it last, that is:
Charge frequently(top off) and to 100%.
Let battery sit at 100% for as long as you can, in the warmest temps you can find(in sun).
Use QCs as often as you can, preferably during the hottest part of the day.
Drive it to VLB warning then charge as fast as you can to 100%.
 
BuckMkII said:
Does Nissan ever look into the car's computer for evidence of deliberate abuse? Is that even possible?

They will if you file a claim for a free pack. Don't let it get hotter than...140F? There are a few other red flags they look for, but I don't recall them.
 
I was thinking more like the "hurtling around a hilly 25 mile loop to the same DC charge station six times on a 95 degree day" kind of evidence. Not like there are no other possible reasons to do that (I mean, sure, it's fun, if you put down speeding tickets and worn out tires as an entertainment expense), but it would look a little funny if one suddenly started doing that every weekend a few months before the warranty expired.

Not gonna be me. I look forward to our car losing its fourth bar in 2025. I can dream, right?
 
Sounds like I better drive and charge it normally, do quick charge whenever I get a chance, and hope it'll drop to 8 bars by October. Don't think it's a good idea if Nissan catches me messing with the battery.

By the way, I'm loving my Leaf the first day, they are fun to drive. I test drove the 2017 Volts and almost leased one. All the dealers had their Volts fully charged so when you test drive them, it's on full electric. When I went to a used car dealership with over 1000 Volts and 200 Leafs, they had all their Volts on gasoline mode. When I test drove a 2014, the engine sounded like a lawnmower! I asked the salesman if that's normal, and he said that's the number one complaint on Volts no matter what year, the engine just sounds funny. Even thought they drive more like a sports car than leafs, I passed on them. I believe I made the right choice.
 
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