6 amps is the minimum that the J1772 specification supports. If the pilot changes the LEAF will follow.camasleaf said:Could one build a "soft start" EVSE? It would start at 2A(min?) and ramp up to 12 (16)A, by it self or manually. Is the Leaf going to get "stuck" at 2A, even if the pilot signal is increased?
True. I was baffled by this, but the severe bogging of the generator at the instant when the JuiceBox switched on the load (RAV4 EV's OBC) was unmistakable. I was measuring the generator's output voltage, current and frequency at the time, and despite setting the JB's current limiter to <10A, as I recall the instantaneous load current inexplicably appeared to surge way higher while the voltage and frequency dipped way below nominal (240V/60Hz). This would explain the generator's behavior (i.e. badly bogging) causing it to temporarily fall out of regulation, or what I am describing as a "brownout condition".fooljoe said:I know that dsinned tried setting his JuiceBox all the way down to 6A to start the charge, but it still wasn't happening at 240V. Strangely enough, he reported that using the same generator at 12A and 120V (which in theory is the exact same amount of power as 6A and 240V) did work.
fooljoe said:I know that dsinned tried setting his JuiceBox all the way down to 6A to start the charge, but it still wasn't happening at 240V. Strangely enough, he reported that using the same generator at 12A and 120V (which in theory is the exact same amount of power as 6A and 240V) did work.
dsinned said:If I can't get this work, I essentially wasted my money on the generator (~$350), because using it to charge an EV at 120V only is really not worth the effort and high cost of gasoline to keep the generator running so long.
dsinned said:True. I was baffled by this, but the severe bogging of the generator at the instant when the JuiceBox switched on the load (RAV4 EV's OBC) was unmistakable. I was measuring the generator's output voltage, current and frequency at the time, and despite setting the JB's current limiter to <10A, as I recall the instantaneous load current inexplicably appeared to surge way higher while the voltage and frequency dipped way below nominal (240V/60Hz). This would explain the generator's behavior (i.e. badly bogging) causing it to temporarily fall out of regulation, or what I am describing as a "brownout condition".fooljoe said:I know that dsinned tried setting his JuiceBox all the way down to 6A to start the charge, but it still wasn't happening at 240V. Strangely enough, he reported that using the same generator at 12A and 120V (which in theory is the exact same amount of power as 6A and 240V) did work.
Btw, I did this generator test a few months ago on a fairly warm day while it was at operating temperature. I would like to repeat the test this Winter to see if the generator's operating temperature had anything to do with this unexpected behavior, which is certainly doubtful.
If I can't get this to work, I essentially wasted my money on the generator (~$350), because using it to charge an EV at 120V only is really not worth the effort and high cost of gasoline to keep the generator running so long.
In the course of testing charging efficiency at L1 vs L2, I took my Rav all the way down to 6A @ 240V and it charged just fine.dsinned said:RAV4 EV. It's possible the car just won't "accept" <15A from a 240V charge.
Ingineer said:Yes, this is 100% correct. Then earth is then properly floating is in the "middle". This is also how we advise our European customers who have isolated grounds. (some places in Europe do)QueenBee said:Ingineer said:The easy way to make this work is take a screw-on plug (NEMA 5-15P) and install two 1/2 watt 100k ohm resistors. One from neutral (silver screw) to ground (green), and the other from hot (gold screw) to ground (green). Then simply plug this into one outlet on the generator, and your EVSE into the other. This will safely pass the ground detect on the Nissan (and our upgraded) EVSE, while not being a hazard in any other way.
Hey Phil, just thought of something. If charging from a 240 volt generator would it be beneficial to connect both hot legs and the neutral to ground via the resistors?
-Phil
Ingineer said:Yes, it's the safest configuration.
Ingineer said:It's not just "EU". It's for charging on isolated grounds. Yes TWO resistors, whether 120 or 240.
This is only necessary if the ground pin on the generator receptacle is unbonded and left floating. So check the generator first. You could just try charging with your EVSE first, and if the EVSE throws a ground fault, check the ground to neutral resistance on the generator receptacle with an ohmmeter.pmmcin said:So for me to charge my 2013 leaf on a 240 volt (nema L14-30) four pole plug Generator at level two with my upgraded evse I would get two 1/2 watt 100k ohm resistors and solder/screw them from the two hot (x) & to the ground (G)?
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