DeudeMann
Active member
So I am revising this thread to make it less of a questions asked and more of a here is what I am doing post.
Right now I am gathering all of the components that I need for a complete Bosectomy of the stock Bose stereo that came with my 2015 Nissan Leaf. The Bose system is OK, but certainly not great, and I know from past stereo installations I have done before that it can sound MUCH better without spending lots of money.
Here are the plans for the system:
- Subwoofer build already completed, details here:
http://www.mynissanleaf.com/viewtopic.php?f=36&t=24187
- I am going to use the stock head unit so I can retain all of the stock functionality. The Bose amplifier will not be used at all.
- For signal processing (active crossovers, parametric EQ, time alignment, etc.) I am going to use a MiniDSP C-DSP 6x8. This is a great unit for the price and is well regarded in the car audio forums. It also has differential inputs so the output of the stock head unit can be connected directly to the C-DSP. It has six inputs so I will even be able to retain the fader if I chose to.
https://www.minidsp.com/products/car-audio-dsp/c-dsp-6x8
- For the front door speakers I will be installing Tang Band W6-1139SIF 6.5" woofers to use as midbass speakers, from ~80Hz to ~250Hz.
For those not familiar with Tang Band, they make lots of drivers for DIY speaker builds, including some very nice stuff on the smaller end of the woofer scale. This little beast has a low Q for infinite baffle installation (in a door) and 11.5mm of xmax, all for $50.
https://www.parts-express.com/tang-band-w6-1139sif-6-1-2-paper-cone-subwoofer-speaker--264-919
- For the upper front speakers, I am going to mount some 3.5" coax drivers in pods at the a-pillars. Right now I plan on using Pioneer TS-A878 speakers.
https://www.amazon.com/Pioneer-TS-A878-Inch-2-Way-Speakers/dp/B00009QOTA
- The subwoofer amplifier is one of these, a Power Akoustic Class-D monoblock which is a little beast that fits in a small space.
https://www.amazon.com/Power-Acoust...&sr=1-2&keywords=power+acoustic+monoblock+amp
- The door speakers and a-pillar pods will be powered by a Precision Power 900.4 which is a Class-D 4-channel amplifier, which also fits in a small space.
https://www.amazon.com/Precision-Power-P900-4-4-Channel-Amplifier/dp/B005KVEPVO
Subwoofer build, about $60 in speakers and $60-$80 in building supplies
Door speakers, about $100
A-pillar speakers, about $50
Front stage amp, about $170
Subwoofer amp, about $105.
Stiffening capacitor, about $35.
Misc. wires, connectors, fuse blocks, what nots, about $50.
So, that comes to about $650 in parts, well under $1000, which I would therefore call a 'budget' build. And though most everyone here will not be able to hear it in person, believe me, it is going to sound really, really good when it is built and tuned.
The basic layout is this:
- Stock HU outputs (LF, RF) will be input directly into the C-DSP 6x8, which has differential inputs.
- Stock HU outputs (LR, RR) will be run directly to the rear door speakers, bypassing the Bose amp.
- The C-DSP 6x8 will have five outputs: FL door, FR door, FL a-pillar, FR a-pillar, subwoofer.
- The four front speaker line outputs from the DSP will go into the 4-channel amplifier, then the outputs are wired to each speaker set.
- The subwoofer line outout will be routed to the monoblock amp and then wired directly to the subwoofer.
Right now I am gathering all of the components that I need for a complete Bosectomy of the stock Bose stereo that came with my 2015 Nissan Leaf. The Bose system is OK, but certainly not great, and I know from past stereo installations I have done before that it can sound MUCH better without spending lots of money.
Here are the plans for the system:
- Subwoofer build already completed, details here:
http://www.mynissanleaf.com/viewtopic.php?f=36&t=24187
- I am going to use the stock head unit so I can retain all of the stock functionality. The Bose amplifier will not be used at all.
- For signal processing (active crossovers, parametric EQ, time alignment, etc.) I am going to use a MiniDSP C-DSP 6x8. This is a great unit for the price and is well regarded in the car audio forums. It also has differential inputs so the output of the stock head unit can be connected directly to the C-DSP. It has six inputs so I will even be able to retain the fader if I chose to.
https://www.minidsp.com/products/car-audio-dsp/c-dsp-6x8
- For the front door speakers I will be installing Tang Band W6-1139SIF 6.5" woofers to use as midbass speakers, from ~80Hz to ~250Hz.
For those not familiar with Tang Band, they make lots of drivers for DIY speaker builds, including some very nice stuff on the smaller end of the woofer scale. This little beast has a low Q for infinite baffle installation (in a door) and 11.5mm of xmax, all for $50.
https://www.parts-express.com/tang-band-w6-1139sif-6-1-2-paper-cone-subwoofer-speaker--264-919
- For the upper front speakers, I am going to mount some 3.5" coax drivers in pods at the a-pillars. Right now I plan on using Pioneer TS-A878 speakers.
https://www.amazon.com/Pioneer-TS-A878-Inch-2-Way-Speakers/dp/B00009QOTA
- The subwoofer amplifier is one of these, a Power Akoustic Class-D monoblock which is a little beast that fits in a small space.
https://www.amazon.com/Power-Acoust...&sr=1-2&keywords=power+acoustic+monoblock+amp
- The door speakers and a-pillar pods will be powered by a Precision Power 900.4 which is a Class-D 4-channel amplifier, which also fits in a small space.
https://www.amazon.com/Precision-Power-P900-4-4-Channel-Amplifier/dp/B005KVEPVO
Subwoofer build, about $60 in speakers and $60-$80 in building supplies
Door speakers, about $100
A-pillar speakers, about $50
Front stage amp, about $170
Subwoofer amp, about $105.
Stiffening capacitor, about $35.
Misc. wires, connectors, fuse blocks, what nots, about $50.
So, that comes to about $650 in parts, well under $1000, which I would therefore call a 'budget' build. And though most everyone here will not be able to hear it in person, believe me, it is going to sound really, really good when it is built and tuned.
The basic layout is this:
- Stock HU outputs (LF, RF) will be input directly into the C-DSP 6x8, which has differential inputs.
- Stock HU outputs (LR, RR) will be run directly to the rear door speakers, bypassing the Bose amp.
- The C-DSP 6x8 will have five outputs: FL door, FR door, FL a-pillar, FR a-pillar, subwoofer.
- The four front speaker line outputs from the DSP will go into the 4-channel amplifier, then the outputs are wired to each speaker set.
- The subwoofer line outout will be routed to the monoblock amp and then wired directly to the subwoofer.