Just installed my openEVSE 40A

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Tsiah

Well-known member
Joined
Jan 6, 2017
Messages
143
Location
Salt Lake City
This was pretty fun to assemble. Took a little time to get all the wiring and CTs to fit the way I liked but I'm stoked to get my car and stop filling at the gas station!
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I wish I had used 1" conduit (oddly my app I've used for years failed me...in one area it said 6/3 romex fits a 3/4" conduit, then in another it says 3/4" is too full by % of area but I didn't see this til after we pulled wire...) and I wish I had set a box instead of that LB, but life goes on. It's installed. :lol:
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This is how I tied in the power for the WiFi module.
 
The car sets the current. As long as the EVSE will supply more current the car takes what it needs and it ignores the rest. An enhanced leaf will draw 26.5A from a 30A EVSE or a 40A EVSE. A Volt would draw 14A from either one.

The Tesla's come with a 40A EVSE. That only leaves the RAV4EV and the B250E. 40A EVSE's are specialty items and they are priced accordingly. It only makes sense to over buy if the price is nearly the same.

My openEVSE currently has a 32A J1772 cable. It charged my eGolf and it charges my B250E just fine. I may change out the cable to get 40A but there is no rush.
 
You external conduit idea is brilliant and beautiful. Did you need to hire out when integrating to the main breaker? Also, how much did all of the conduit tubing cost? Where did you decide to acquire the cables?
 
That's very cool and clean. I like how you tied everything with twist ties. Very neat.

One question I have - I noticed you left the AC_RELAY pins unconnected to anything. I'm pretty sure I remember that being the control signal for the relay, but you took those wires and ran them to the opposite side of the board. I forgot what the pins over there do, but are you sure that was correct?

I'd worry that your relay will now be stuck open or stuck closed. The former will not charge a car, and the latter would be extremely dangerous.

Edit: This shows the connection I think you might have wrong: https://d17kynu4zpq5hy.cloudfront.net/igi/openevse/OkTg2M5aBSYQni2c.huge
 
BenTheRighteous said:
That's very cool and clean. I like how you tied everything with twist ties. Very neat.

One question I have - I noticed you left the AC_RELAY pins unconnected to anything. I'm pretty sure I remember that being the control signal for the relay, but you took those wires and ran them to the opposite side of the board. I forgot what the pins over there do, but are you sure that was correct?
I'd worry that your relay will now be stuck open or stuck closed. The former will not charge a car, and the latter would be extremely dangerous.
Edit: This shows the connection I think you might have wrong: https://d17kynu4zpq5hy.cloudfront.net/igi/openevse/OkTg2M5aBSYQni2c.huge[/

quote THE CURRENT VERSION SUPPORTS BOTH 240v CONTACTORS AND 12v RELAYS. THE TERMINALS FOR ONE WILL BE UNUSED. Older versions required a driver relay but Chris incorporated a 240V driver chip in the current version. I do not see a slave relay as a big deal. The DIY versions only have the relay outputs.
 
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