2018 Nissan portable EVSE manual/wiring instructions

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EVDRIVER said:
Anyone that does not know these answers off the top of their head including, wire sizes, phases, etc has no business doing anything but hiring a qualified professional This goes for any EVSE. It could not be more straight forward and it's no different than any other EVSE with a plug today.

I am an EE, and I do know the answers off the top of my head, except for wire size and I know where to look that up in the NEC.

I still hired an electrician to put in an outlet for my EVSE.
 
WetEV said:
I still hired an electrician to put in an outlet for my EVSE.

Therein lies a potential problem, i.e. finding a very qualified and reliable electrician. Years ago my general contractor (GC) indicated that his
electrician & team were very qualified for my new construction. After monitoring the first two days of their installation and then failing
the electrical inspection by the city, I removed all of their installation, had the GC fire the electrician, and did the electrical myself.
 
lorenfb said:
WetEV said:
I still hired an electrician to put in an outlet for my EVSE.

Therein lies a potential problem, i.e. finding a very qualified and reliable electrician. Years ago my general contractor (GC) indicated that his
electrician & team were very qualified for my new construction. After monitoring the first two days of their installation and then failing
the electrical inspection by the city, I removed all of their installation, had the GC fire the electrician, and did the electrical myself.

Just tell the electrician you need a 14-50 outlet for your RV. Big RV's plug into this.

It is likely that the electrician can install this since it is common.
 
LeftieBiker said:
One possible source of confusion is the fact that an EVSE doesn't need or use a Neutral wire. Unless your charging station will be hardwired, though, you want a standard 240 volt circuit WITH Neutral, so other 240 volt appliances can safely plug into that outlet.

Are you sure the supplied 2018 cable from Nissan doesn't rely on its neutral?

The reason I ask is that I had made an L6-20 (or -30) extension cord for my upgraded 2014 EVSE, and now I need to either make a new one (expensive), or make an adapter to let the 2018 EVSE plug in. But there's no neutral in my extension. If the 2018 EVSE truly doesn't care, then I can safely do this.

I may just try it, as it probably won't hurt it to not be there, it'll just error out.

But if anyone knows, I'd appreciate it!
 
JetForMe said:
LeftieBiker said:
One possible source of confusion is the fact that an EVSE doesn't need or use a Neutral wire. Unless your charging station will be hardwired, though, you want a standard 240 volt circuit WITH Neutral, so other 240 volt appliances can safely plug into that outlet.

Are you sure the supplied 2018 cable from Nissan doesn't rely on its neutral?

The reason I ask is that I had made an L6-20 (or -30) extension cord for my upgraded 2014 EVSE, and now I need to either make a new one (expensive), or make an adapter to let the 2018 EVSE plug in. But there's no neutral in my extension. If the 2018 EVSE truly doesn't care, then I can safely do this.

I may just try it, as it probably won't hurt it to not be there, it'll just error out.

But if anyone knows, I'd appreciate it!

L6-20 plugs and receptacles are only rated for 20 amperes. If I understand correctly, the new Nissan EVSE is rated 30 amperes at 208 or 240 volts (not adjustable). If the onboard charger in the 2018 is similar to the 2015, it will actually draw the full 30 amperes at 208 volts or about 27 amperes at 240 volts so your extension cord needs to be able to safely carry that much current. If your extension cord has L6-30 connections and 10 AWG copper conductors (or larger), it may be OK. Check for hot spots after the car has been charging for a while.
 
JetForMe said:
LeftieBiker said:
One possible source of confusion is the fact that an EVSE doesn't need or use a Neutral wire. Unless your charging station will be hardwired, though, you want a standard 240 volt circuit WITH Neutral, so other 240 volt appliances can safely plug into that outlet.

Are you sure the supplied 2018 cable from Nissan doesn't rely on its neutral?

The reason I ask is that I had made an L6-20 (or -30) extension cord for my upgraded 2014 EVSE, and now I need to either make a new one (expensive), or make an adapter to let the 2018 EVSE plug in. But there's no neutral in my extension. If the 2018 EVSE truly doesn't care, then I can safely do this.

I may just try it, as it probably won't hurt it to not be there, it'll just error out.

But if anyone knows, I'd appreciate it!


If you have an upgraded 2014 EVSE it would be 16A, be sure to check this, if 20A you can't use an L6-20. Also you should never make extension cords, this is the highest failure point, you should only use 10G cords with welded ends by reputable makers if you have an L6-30 and 20A unit. Screw on terminals loosen and cause hazards. As far as the 2018 unit is concerned you can't male an adapter and need to use a proper 14-50 outlet with the rated circuit. Contrary to what you read here codes vary in local areas and you should have a circuit rated for 50A to be in compliance. Ask city inspector if you need a correct answer for your area.
 
It would be possible to build a 277v EVSE if you could find the components. Most cars will accept 277V but power supplies and contactors stop at 240V. For example the OpenEVSE runs on 12V and 5V. The SMD units have a supply that max's out at 240V. On the DIY units I use an external power supply that also max's out at 240V but there might exist a 277V supply. As long as it feeds 12V and 5V the board is happy. The sense resistors might need to be increased in value though.

No EVSE uses the Neutral except the stock DIY conversion. They all require two L lines and a ground. The conversion uses the neutral to run the EVSE at 120V like it was designed for. It is the only exception that I know of. For sure Clipper Creek, OpenEVSE, and the JuiceBox do not use the neutral.
 
GlennD said:
It would be possible to build a 277v EVSE if you could find the components. Most cars will accept 277V but power supplies and contactors stop at 240V. ...
As far as I know, only the Tesla Model S and X (and maybe the Mercedes and RAV4 with Tesla chargers) will accept 277v. Even the new model 3 doesn't support it, much to the chagrin of a few folks who actually tried one of the handful of 277v Tesla sites.
 
davewill said:
GlennD said:
It would be possible to build a 277v EVSE if you could find the components. Most cars will accept 277V but power supplies and contactors stop at 240V. ...
As far as I know, only the Tesla Model S and X (and maybe the Mercedes and RAV4 with Tesla chargers) will accept 277v. Even the new model 3 doesn't support it, much to the chagrin of a few folks who actually tried one of the handful of 277v Tesla sites.

I am told that the B and RAV4EV will accept 277 but I have no way to test it. For me 240VAC is fine and it is fast enough.
 
alozzy said:
It's the same receptacle he would wire for an electric range/oven - NEMA 14-50R

We have ordered our 2018 Leaf and hope to get it in August. Excited and looking forward to it. Really want a Tesla but can't yet afford it. :|

We have our electrician coming on Monday morning to give us a quote to put in a new subpanel in the garage (need it for my woodworking tools, otherwise I would have just had him pull one line for the charging). We're thinking of just going with the 14-50 plug rather than spending the extra $1000+ for the flo charging station. Maybe we'll get one later for the convenience.

However we also want the flexibility of plugging into a dryer outlet when we are on the road visiting friends. Usually dryers are located in garages or basements and within reach of the 20ft charging cable, not so much stoves. Are there adapters available for this or do they come with the Leaf? Our salesperson didn't mention so.
 
tranquilgarden said:
alozzy said:
It's the same receptacle he would wire for an electric range/oven - NEMA 14-50R

We have ordered our 2018 Leaf and hope to get it in August. Excited and looking forward to it. Really want a Tesla but can't yet afford it. :|

We have our electrician coming on Monday morning to give us a quote to put in a new subpanel in the garage (need it for my woodworking tools, otherwise I would have just had him pull one line for the charging). We're thinking of just going with the 14-50 plug rather than spending the extra $1000+ for the flo charging station. Maybe we'll get one later for the convenience.

However we also want the flexibility of plugging into a dryer outlet when we are on the road visiting friends. Usually dryers are located in garages or basements and within reach of the 20ft charging cable, not so much stoves. Are there adapters available for this or do they come with the Leaf? Our salesperson didn't mention so.

Found some other posts that answer this question, I believe. https://www.mynissanleaf.com/viewtopic.php?f=27&t=25846
 
@tranquilgarden Yup, short version is don't use the stock EVSE on a dryer outlet (NEMA 14-30R) because your LEAF's OBC will draw 27.5 A, which is too high for continuous use on a 30A circuit. If you want to use a dryer outlet elsewhere, then you would need a portable EVSE that can be set to a lower amperage draw. An example is the Zencar 32A portable EVSE, which you could order with one of the amperage values preset to 24A.
 
Simple question as I see it but lots of folks comment on everything but the question. Sure hire a electrician, but that's not what the OP asked about.

Here is what I picked up for the job (My panel is < 25 FT away)

(1) Cerrowire 147-4203A 25-Feet 6/3 NM-B Stranded with Ground Wire, Black
(1) 2 Gang Outlet Box - Carlon B225R-UPC Switch/Outlet Box (your box will be different if you are not flush mounting etc, so adjust according to job) If not behind a wall conduit would be required etc. Outlet height from ground should conform to local build codes etc.
(1) 3/4-Inch Clamp Type Connector (For Panel)
(1) 50 AMP Breaker (Check with town to see if they require GFCI for garage use) - Most towns / city require GFCI for any outlet in a garage
(1) Pack of 3/4 or 1/2 braces or NM staple type if running across an area where you need to secure the wire like a basement rafter etc.
(1) Metal NEMA 14-50 Cover plate
(1) NEMA 14-50R outlet
(1) Permit if required or desired to be compliant with town / city rules

In my case my panel already has a 40 AMP breaker which was for an stove top which was not in use (its Gas), so I reused that breaker, should I need to draw more later down the road I will upgrade it to 50 AMPs. I know that the OEM draws no more than 30 amps and a 40 amp breaker is sufficient for this purpose. Note it's okay to have a smaller breaker with greater capacity wire, just not the other way around. It's not GFCI but should I need upgrade later such as new charing requirements I will use a 50 AMP GFCI enabled breaker for safety and to conform with my building local codes.

An electrician should be used if you never have worked in a panel, added an outlet or done any real wiring, I don't suggest this project be ones first electrical experience as the complexity is greater and less is documented around it. It's not a difficult project just requires to be done right for safety sake. It's not common to have a 14-50R in the garage or a spare laying around as not much calls for it in a garage. EVSE charing and wiring up is a less documented area then lets say adding an outlet behind a TV in a bedroom. This is also why many electricians are less familiar with any additional code or terminology. So asking for a dryer range outlet (NEMA 14-50R) in the garage for charging ones car will yield a quicker understanding of what one needs to be quoted on. Most electricians charge $200 per outlet these days plus parts, parts are about $100 and up depending on distance from panel (more copper more $). Also note try to keep the run short as possible which I am not going to go into here other than distance = resistance etc. For what the EVSE currently draws which is 27.5 AMPS distance is less of a concern but just wanted to point this out.

Just wanted to provide some information, but don't take my word for it, consult with others, read around and or call the town if needed. You can also get quotes from different electricians and ask how they plan to do the job, while I don't advocate wasting anyones time it's another way to get information from the "pros".

Does this help anyone?
 
techiefan: Two brief(?) comments:

1) The length of the 2018 Nissan EVSE is 18 feet, so I suggest that one CAREFULLY choose the location of the outlet -- take into account where the Leaf's charging port might be. In my case since I most often charge with the car just outside the garage but also might charge with the car inside (at times facing its door, but also sometimes facing away) and also there is a doorway just inside the garage doorway to a side room that I don't want the charging cord to cross lest I create a tripping hazard for myself, the location of an outlet could only vary by 3 feet.

2) I think it is safest to have the outlet beyond a reaching distance away from any ground if at all possible, so that one can't be touching a ground with one hand while the other hand is accidentally touching an energized 120v prong of the plug in the outlet while plugging/unplugging. So I quibble against the need for a METAL cover plate (which code requires be grounded, I believe). If removing nearby grounds is not possible, all the better reason for safety reasons (regardless of the minimum code requirements!) to install a 50a GFCI breaker NOW (of course assuming 6 AWG wire). (Having written this, I also recognize the difficulty of finding a simple non-metallic 14-50 cover -- any suggestions besides a DIY job from a plain full cover?)
 
MikeD said:
techiefan: Two brief(?) comments:

1) The length of the 2018 Nissan EVSE is 18 feet, so I suggest that one CAREFULLY choose the location of the outlet -- take into account where the Leaf's charging port might be. In my case since I most often charge with the car just outside the garage but also might charge with the car inside (at times facing its door, but also sometimes facing away) and also there is a doorway just inside the garage doorway to a side room that I don't want the charging cord to cross lest I create a tripping hazard for myself, the location of an outlet could only vary by 3 feet.

2) I think it is safest to have the outlet beyond a reaching distance away from any ground if at all possible, so that one can't be touching a ground with one hand while the other hand is accidentally touching an energized 120v prong of the plug in the outlet while plugging/unplugging. So I quibble against the need for a METAL cover plate (which code requires be grounded, I believe). If removing nearby grounds is not possible, all the better reason for safety reasons (regardless of the minimum code requirements!) to install a 50a GFCI breaker NOW (of course assuming 6 AWG wire). (Having written this, I also recognize the difficulty of finding a simple non-metallic 14-50 cover -- any suggestions besides a DIY job from a plain full cover?)

I agree on the first point, you want to place it in the right spot but I guess that's almost a given but good to call it out.

Second point, in my case I used 6 AWG, but left the 40 AMP breaker for now and will actually order the 50 AMP GFCI shorty for GFCI safety sake. Should something draw over 40 (EVSE is rated at 27.5) now the breaker will trip anyway so no immediate hazard. The cover is actually ground by the Levition 14-50R just to note. The 6/3 I purchased and most off the shelf has the 4 wire which is ground, the 14-50R takes ground direct or looped if you are using a metal box. The metal cover has metal screws and the metal frame of the Levition is grounded as well. This is far as I know, I always suggest folks do their own local city / town homework if doubt as I am not licensed just been doing this a long time and try to keep up to date etc.
 
techiefan: Your response to me seems accurate and useful, thank you! Since you mentioned using a non-metallic box for your receptacle it occurred to me that your installation could be improved safety-wise (especially for the period without a GFCI breaker), assuming the only part of the receptacle's installation that was touchable AND grounded was the metal cover, if you could replace that cover that a non-metallic one. The trouble is I haven't been able to find one(!?), either for a 1-gang or 2-gang box -- but I could create one by cutting a 2 in hole in a plain non-metallic cover (like Hubbell/Bell PBC100GY). I commend you for your original post's thoroughness and usefulness, BTW!

Because a good 14-50R receptacle makes a tight fit with the plug, it can be very hard to unplug without using two hands -- one pushing on the cover and the other pulling on the plug. If you only pull on the plug, I can see where a plastic cover might break (crack at the 4 holes) if it is only secured by the 4 screws that pass through the cover (and not the two additional screws that may be available at top/bottom center that do not pass through the cover). Perhaps this accounts for only metal covers being available for use with 30 and 50a receptacles...
 
MikeD said:
techiefan: Your response to me seems accurate and useful, thank you! Since you mentioned using a non-metallic box for your receptacle it occurred to me that your installation could be improved safety-wise (especially for the period without a GFCI breaker), assuming the only part of the receptacle's installation that was touchable AND grounded was the metal cover, if you could replace that cover that a non-metallic one. The trouble is I haven't been able to find one(!?), either for a 1-gang or 2-gang box -- but I could create one by cutting a 2 in hole in a plain non-metallic cover (like Hubbell/Bell PBC100GY). I commend you for your original post's thoroughness and usefulness, BTW!

Because a good 14-50R receptacle makes a tight fit with the plug, it can be very hard to unplug without using two hands -- one pushing on the cover and the other pulling on the plug. If you only pull on the plug, I can see where a plastic cover might break (crack at the 4 holes) if it is only secured by the 4 screws that pass through the cover (and not the two additional screws that may be available at top/bottom center that do not pass through the cover). Perhaps this accounts for only metal covers being available for use with 30 and 50a receptacles...
I used a plastic box and actually mounted it next to the stud with adding a screw from the side to secure it beyond the plastic tabs so it can't be yanked out. However the metal plate is grounded because the outlet metal frame is grounded by design and when attached with the 4 metal screws it makes bond. If I used a metal box the only difference would be the metal box would need to be grounded as well, wouldn't change anything safety wise. Really GFCI and safety in the way I am using my EVSE charger is not much of a concern for me as I am in full control but since we are posting on an open we should always call out things to ensure others are safe.

One note is that you have to use a 2 gang box with 6 AWG wire due to size and needing for the additional space to accommodate it.

In Canda they readily sell the plastic covers as all in one but I suspect they are not approved for USA use.

Hope these posts help others and again I say make sure to follow all NEC codes and if one has any questions call the town / city with concerns or questions on current code. Sometimes going into the local office and talking with the local inspector will yield better results, they usually don't discriminate against non licensed electricians asking questions. Garage car charging (EVSE) is a fairly new area anyway, it's not something that's been around that long. Also remember that when you open a permit, it's inspected prior to passing, if you haven't followed code you will need to fix it in order to pass, the inspector will tell you what needs to be done to be compliant. Now many homeowners often don't open permits for small work like an outlet but those are the rules in many areas, if one chooses to follow or not is up the individual like speeding.

In case anyone wants to read the NEC 625 rules for EVCS

http://www.electricallicenserenewal.com/Electrical-Continuing-Education-Courses/NEC-Content.php?sectionID=366.0

Happy EVSE charging to all!
 
techiefan: Thanks for your last useful response! One quibble I have, however, is that I found the 1-gang PVC Carlon E980EFN FSE Box (19 CU in) not only adequate by 2017 NEC box fill standards (3 x 5 cu in < 19 cu in [vs 32 CU in for a similar 2-gang box]), but preferred because this box provides for a total of 6 receptacle mounting points instead of the 2-gang box's only 4 mounting points. I note also the 1-gang box is deeper than the 2-gang box, which might be important depending on which manufacturer's 14-50R receptacle you decide to buy.

I grant you, however, that the significant difficulty in working with the very stiff 6 AWG wire might cause one to prefer the 2-gang over the 1-gang box!

It might be useful to have posted detailed pictures of good 14-50R installs for the DIYers. Anyone?...
 
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