Buying Used 2015 QC Option question

My Nissan Leaf Forum

Help Support My Nissan Leaf Forum:

This site may earn a commission from merchant affiliate links, including eBay, Amazon, and others.
mkwilkes said:
So, I believe Gary is clear that his soon to be delivered '15 Leaf S has the 3.3kW, 6.6kW, and the QC port.
Lest there be any confusion may I point out that since it has the 6.6 kW onboard charger (which it does if it has QC), it does not also have a 3.3 kW onboard charger. Every Leaf has exactly one onboard charger. Every Leaf charger supports both Level 1 and Level 2. [Well, I can't swear that the Leafs in countries that have 240V instead of 120V house current support Level 1.] The 3.3 kW and 6.6 kW chargers differ only in the maximum rate at which they can charge the battery.
 
I love my Leaf and have been learning more about it on this forum, but I guess I don't meet Leftiebiker's high standards. I was just trying to help Gary, an excited new owner. I apologize for any confusion I may have caused.
 
LeftieBiker said:
At this point I wonder if we are being trolled.

Is this for me?

I am not trolling, Im asking legit questions here.

mkwilkes said:
I love my Leaf and have been learning more about it on this forum, but I guess I don't meet Leftiebiker's high standards. I was just trying to help Gary, an excited new owner. I apologize for any confusion I may have caused.

Yes very excited here. Just took my first long ride in the Leaf. LOVE it so far and the earlier comment I made about the Fiat being faster was because the ECO was on in the Leaf. When I got outta that ECO, the Leaf has some balls LOL


I dont quite understand this pic I took.


Why would the time to a complete charge at 240 V be the same time (230)??? at 3 AND 6 KW?

Heres pic.

GtBIj1L.jpg
 
No, that wasn't directed at you. As for the charge estimate, that bit of firmware was written for the Japanese grid and never changed for the US until 2018. I have no idea why it lists the same time for two different rates. It is generally pessimistic.
 
LeftieBiker said:
No, that wasn't directed at you. As for the charge estimate, that bit of firmware was written for the Japanese grid and never changed for the US until 2018. I have no idea why it lists the same time for two different rates. It is generally pessimistic.

Thank you Leftiebiker.

You guys have really helped here. I'm glad to be part of the forum and I am loving my Leaf on this first day!

I'm going to take it for a night ride here while the traffic is light to get to know it better.

Thank you again for all your input. It helped me alot. :D
 
@GaryHere Because you are already above 80% charge, the estimated rate of charge is less than or equal to 3.3 kW accordingly - which is why they both show the same estimated time to 100% SOC. You should find the estimates are different when the SOC is lower.

Also, I would guess that the estimated time is off a bit due to the fact that Japan has 100V/200V supplies. Additionally, some parts of Japan are 50 Hz while others are 60 Hz, which would also throw off the estimates. That of course assumes that Nissan didn't bother to adjust the software estimates based on the different supply voltages in each market and instead based everything off of Japanese supply voltages (and possibly 50 Hz frequency too).
 
Because you are already above 80% charge, the estimated rate of charge is less than or equal to 3.3 kW accordingly - which is why they both show the same estimated time to 100% SOC. You should find the estimates are different when the SOC is lower.

That makes sense, but I didn't realize/think that L-2 starts to taper that soon. I thought it was more like 95% indicated, or 11 charge bars.
 
alozzy said:
You should find the estimates are different when the SOC is lower.
Yep. And, as noted, the estimates aren't accurate either.

I don't think I've seen the 3 kW and 6 kW times match but I've seen them pretty close. It's likely due to the amount of time spent on each in taper and bounce when charging to 100%. See http://www.mynissanleaf.com/viewtopic.php?f=6&t=23739&p=490435&hilit=chargepoint+graph#p490435 and http://www.mynissanleaf.com/viewtopic.php?p=493874#p493874.
 
The need for L3 charging really depends on your needs. Both my Leaf's and my eGolf had quick charging. On all three I never used it. At home L2 charging works for me. When my 2014 B was totaled I had just over 9000 miles with 14 months left on the lease,

If I needed fast charging Tony Williams company makes an L3 adapter but for me it is a waste of money.
 
alozzy said:
@GaryHere Because you are already above 80% charge, the estimated rate of charge is less than or equal to 3.3 kW accordingly - which is why they both show the same estimated time to 100% SOC. You should find the estimates are different when the SOC is lower.

Also, I would guess that the estimated time is off a bit due to the fact that Japan has 100V/200V supplies. Additionally, some parts of Japan are 50 Hz while others are 60 Hz, which would also throw off the estimates. That of course assumes that Nissan didn't bother to adjust the software estimates based on the different supply voltages in each market and instead based everything off of Japanese supply voltages (and possibly 50 Hz frequency too).

Thanks for the reply. It has changed since my question; now it shows a lesser time for 240 6.6 vs 3.3 240 by a few hours.

Kinda confusing but Im getting to know my Leaf each day :D



GlennD said:
The need for L3 charging really depends on your needs. Both my Leaf's and my eGolf had quick charging. On all three I never used it. At home L2 charging works for me. When my 2014 B was totaled I had just over 9000 miles with 14 months left on the lease,

If I needed fast charging Tony Williams company makes an L3 adapter but for me it is a waste of money.


The other day I called up a company for an adapter question not knowing about the company.

So this guy answers: "Hey this is Tony." (He didnt say this is so and so company, I got confused) So I go, "Oh sorry I got the wrong number".

It was Tony Williams and then I started going on and on about the Leaf and battery issues and why Nissan opted for air cooling but we got on track as to why I called. LOL.

I told him I appreciated his work and input on MNL even though I was just lurking here back in 2012 and opted for a Volt> Leaf at the time due to all the negativity then, with the battery.
 
Thanks for the reply. It has changed since my question; now it shows a lesser time for 240 6.6 vs 3.3 240 by a few hours.

This question is for the other more experienced posters here: do you guys think this may be a BMS reset? I could see an 11 bar 2015 getting reset to show 12.
 
LeftieBiker said:
Thanks for the reply. It has changed since my question; now it shows a lesser time for 240 6.6 vs 3.3 240 by a few hours.

This question is for the other more experienced posters here: do you guys think this may be a BMS reset? I could see an 11 bar 2015 getting reset to show 12.

From what Gary has posted in several threads, I see absolutely no information that would cause me to even consider the possibility of an LBC reset.

What Gary is seeing with charging time estimates is perfectly normal for a 2015. L2 rate starts tapering sooner on my 2015 than on my 2011 (of course it is at 6 kW instead of 3.3 kW before tapering). Another situation that can cause the L2 estimated times to be closer than they would normally be is if the last charge was at an EVSE that was capable of more than 3.3 kW, but was not capable of the full 6 kW rate. I just finished a DCQC charge that stopped at 95% SOC according to the dash display. The estimated time to charge is now showing 1:20, 1:30, and 2:30 even though my last L2 charge was at the full 6 kW rate.
 
GaryHere said:
alozzy said:
@GaryHere Because you are already above 80% charge, the estimated rate of charge is less than or equal to 3.3 kW accordingly - which is why they both show the same estimated time to 100% SOC. You should find the estimates are different when the SOC is lower.

Also, I would guess that the estimated time is off a bit due to the fact that Japan has 100V/200V supplies. Additionally, some parts of Japan are 50 Hz while others are 60 Hz, which would also throw off the estimates. That of course assumes that Nissan didn't bother to adjust the software estimates based on the different supply voltages in each market and instead based everything off of Japanese supply voltages (and possibly 50 Hz frequency too).

Thanks for the reply. It has changed since my question; now it shows a lesser time for 240 6.6 vs 3.3 240 by a few hours.

Kinda confusing but Im getting to know my Leaf each day :D



GlennD said:
The need for L3 charging really depends on your needs. Both my Leaf's and my eGolf had quick charging. On all three I never used it. At home L2 charging works for me. When my 2014 B was totaled I had just over 9000 miles with 14 months left on the lease,

If I needed fast charging Tony Williams company makes an L3 adapter but for me it is a waste of money.


The other day I called up a company for an adapter question not knowing about the company.

So this guy answers: "Hey this is Tony." (He didnt say this is so and so company, I got confused) So I go, "Oh sorry I got the wrong number".

It was Tony Williams and then I started going on and on about the Leaf and battery issues and why Nissan opted for air cooling but we got on track as to why I called. LOL.

I told him I appreciated his work and input on MNL even though I was just lurking here back in 2012 and opted for a Volt> Leaf at the time due to all the negativity then, with the battery.

Quick Charge Power is a small company.. Tony Williams is an owner along with his brother. He is a true EV person and he frequently answers the phone informally.
 
GlennD said:
GaryHere said:
alozzy said:
@GaryHere Because you are already above 80% charge, the estimated rate of charge is less than or equal to 3.3 kW accordingly - which is why they both show the same estimated time to 100% SOC. You should find the estimates are different when the SOC is lower.

Also, I would guess that the estimated time is off a bit due to the fact that Japan has 100V/200V supplies. Additionally, some parts of Japan are 50 Hz while others are 60 Hz, which would also throw off the estimates. That of course assumes that Nissan didn't bother to adjust the software estimates based on the different supply voltages in each market and instead based everything off of Japanese supply voltages (and possibly 50 Hz frequency too).

Thanks for the reply. It has changed since my question; now it shows a lesser time for 240 6.6 vs 3.3 240 by a few hours.

Kinda confusing but Im getting to know my Leaf each day :D



GlennD said:
The need for L3 charging really depends on your needs. Both my Leaf's and my eGolf had quick charging. On all three I never used it. At home L2 charging works for me. When my 2014 B was totaled I had just over 9000 miles with 14 months left on the lease,

If I needed fast charging Tony Williams company makes an L3 adapter but for me it is a waste of money.


The other day I called up a company for an adapter question not knowing about the company.

So this guy answers: "Hey this is Tony." (He didnt say this is so and so company, I got confused) So I go, "Oh sorry I got the wrong number".

It was Tony Williams and then I started going on and on about the Leaf and battery issues and why Nissan opted for air cooling but we got on track as to why I called. LOL.

I told him I appreciated his work and input on MNL even though I was just lurking here back in 2012 and opted for a Volt> Leaf at the time due to all the negativity then, with the battery.

Quick Charge Power is a small company.. Tony Williams is an owner along with his brother. He is a true EV person and he frequently answers the phone informally.

He was cool to chat to. I like the informal answering for sure :D
 
I didnt want to make a new thread so will post this question here.

Can someone explain these? What they stand for?
I looked on MNL to see; didnt see a thing, maybe looked in wrong areas?


GID?

SOH-- I think this one I was able to google and get State of Health

aHR- I would guess HR is hours? The a? Average?

HX? - We write this as history in the medical world



Thanks

G
 
I believe GID is a term coined by a DIY'er here at MNL or perhaps another EV site. It is basically a unit of energy contained in the battery.

AHR is amp-hour and is a standard measure of capacity of a batter = number of amps available for number of hours until battery is 'emtpy'

Hx and SOH are more mysterious. I think they were coined by the implementer of LeafSpy. SOH stands for 'state of health' and is used to gauge the battery's 'health'. Hx is sometimes referred to as the internal resistance of the battery although I don't think this has ever been definitely proven. A theory I've heard lately is that SOH is a long term running average of Hx while Hx is a more instantaneous measurement.

Part of the problem is that these terms have all been 'reversed engineered' by DIY'ers and Nissan has not released any official documentation on how their BMS (battery management system) works and what the numbers mean.
 
goldbrick said:
I believe GID is a term coined by a DIY'er here at MNL or perhaps another EV site. It is basically a unit of energy contained in the battery.

AHR is amp-hour and is a standard measure of capacity of a batter = number of amps available for number of hours until battery is 'emtpy'

Hx and SOH are more mysterious. I think they were coined by the implementer of LeafSpy. SOH stands for 'state of health' and is used to gauge the battery's 'health'. Hx is sometimes referred to as the internal resistance of the battery although I don't think this has ever been definitely proven. A theory I've heard lately is that SOH is a long term running average of Hx while Hx is a more instantaneous measurement.

Part of the problem is that these terms have all been 'reversed engineered' by DIY'ers and Nissan has not released any official documentation on how their BMS (battery management system) works and what the numbers mean.

Thanks goldbrick for your reply on this.

I just curious cause as I more and more look at MNL and the posts and replies, I often see these terms and didnt want to be in the dark!

I think knowing all that about my battery, etc would make me even more OCD about it all than I am now !! LOL

I will just stick to my SOC and 12 bars on the dash for now that is.


Also I have been reading replies from everyone and not charging over 80% all weekend as seems to be the suggestions.

Only this has caused me not charge to 100% for a longer trip and I split my trip up to charge to 80% then resume then charge again to 80%.


Is it really bad for the battery to charge it to 100% all the time and drive it without it being at 80%?

Is this worse to let the car sit for a while fully charged with no use?
 
It's all anecdotal evidence as far as I know but I think it is a well accepted fact that there are several things that are detrimental to Li batteries. Keep in mind that there are different chemistries involved, just between model years of Leafs and of course, Leaf batteries are different than Tesla batteries and are different than laptop or phone batteries etc.

Having said all that, I would say ANY Li battery is degraded by charging it too fast, too low or too high. The BMS will control most of these parameters but the Leaf BMS will let the battery get very close to 100% or 0% charge. 0% charge is less of an issue since if that happens you are stuck somewhere and have bigger problems :mrgreen: Charging to 100% is much easier and more common.

The common wisdom on the board here is that 100% and high battery temps are bad for the Leaf battery. Either one by itself is not good, both of them together are worse. The battery doesn't just explode - thankfully - but whatever chemical changes occur to degrade the battery are increased under these conditions.

So the general advice is to not leave the battery at high state of charge for long periods of time and to avoid 100% charges when the battery is hot, to the extent possible. If you need 100% charge for a long trip, try to time the charging so it hits 100% shortly before you go to minimize the time it is sitting at 100% charge. Also, if the battery is hot, avoid charging over 80% as much as possible. I'd add that is better to keep the battery above 10% charge if you can help it. If it gets below that, try to charge as soon as possible for the same reasons.
 
goldbrick said:
It's all anecdotal evidence as far as I know but I think it is a well accepted fact that there are several things that are detrimental to Li batteries. Keep in mind that there are different chemistries involved, just between model years of Leafs and of course, Leaf batteries are different than Tesla batteries and are different than laptop or phone batteries etc.

Having said all that, I would say ANY Li battery is degraded by charging it too fast, too low or too high. The BMS will control most of these parameters but the Leaf BMS will let the battery get very close to 100% or 0% charge. 0% charge is less of an issue since if that happens you are stuck somewhere and have bigger problems :mrgreen: Charging to 100% is much easier and more common.

The common wisdom on the board here is that 100% and high battery temps are bad for the Leaf battery. Either one by itself is not good, both of them together are worse. The battery doesn't just explode - thankfully - but whatever chemical changes occur to degrade the battery are increased under these conditions.

So the general advice is to not leave the battery at high state of charge for long periods of time and to avoid 100% charges when the battery is hot, to the extent possible. If you need 100% charge for a long trip, try to time the charging so it hits 100% shortly before you go to minimize the time it is sitting at 100% charge. Also, if the battery is hot, avoid charging over 80% as much as possible. I'd add that is better to keep the battery above 10% charge if you can help it. If it gets below that, try to charge as soon as possible for the same reasons.[/quote
I think that is probably the best explanation I have heard for the common wisdom of Leaf battery management.
I just have one question about the whole thing; I generally charge to 100% shortly before I drive to work because that allows me to drive for 3 days without a recharge. It is generally cool around here in the Pacific NW area. If I charge to 80%, I'm lucky to get 2 days out of it, because I get sort of nervous if I head for work with less than 50% left. I know that's not ideal, but I leave around 4 AM and dealing with the charger and the cord that early is something I try to avoid!
Should I not worry about draining the battery down to LBW on a regular basis and charge every two days to 80%? I'm always concerned about having to run an errand after work, too :|
 
Back
Top