Buying Used 2015 QC Option question

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How long have you had the car? If it's a 2013 and still going strong I wouldn't change anything.

Otherwise, don't worry about it too much. Just try to drive it and enjoy it. It's possible to micro-manage the battery to try to squeeze every last bit of life out of it but if you just avoid the really dumb stuff you'll probably get 90+% of the benefit for 10% of the work and stress.
 
I've only had it for a year and it's down a bar with 38K on the clock. It had 84% SOH when I got it and it's down to 82%, but works for me!
 
goldbrick said:
It's all anecdotal evidence as far as I know but I think it is a well accepted fact that there are several things that are detrimental to Li batteries. Keep in mind that there are different chemistries involved, just between model years of Leafs and of course, Leaf batteries are different than Tesla batteries and are different than laptop or phone batteries etc.

Having said all that, I would say ANY Li battery is degraded by charging it too fast, too low or too high. The BMS will control most of these parameters but the Leaf BMS will let the battery get very close to 100% or 0% charge. 0% charge is less of an issue since if that happens you are stuck somewhere and have bigger problems :mrgreen: Charging to 100% is much easier and more common.

The common wisdom on the board here is that 100% and high battery temps are bad for the Leaf battery. Either one by itself is not good, both of them together are worse. The battery doesn't just explode - thankfully - but whatever chemical changes occur to degrade the battery are increased under these conditions.

So the general advice is to not leave the battery at high state of charge for long periods of time and to avoid 100% charges when the battery is hot, to the extent possible. If you need 100% charge for a long trip, try to time the charging so it hits 100% shortly before you go to minimize the time it is sitting at 100% charge. Also, if the battery is hot, avoid charging over 80% as much as possible. I'd add that is better to keep the battery above 10% charge if you can help it. If it gets below that, try to charge as soon as possible for the same reasons.

Thanx for you reply.

Good tips there to keep in mind!

I'm hyper concerned due to my location; likely not the best choice I made getting a car with zero thermal management however, I've had a list of BEVs, etc and always wanted a Leaf.

Actually traded in my Fiat 500e for it only because no one could repair it here in Tucson if the need arises.

The Fiat is a blast to drive but a bit bare bones inside and way too small but did have TMS.

I will do all I can to protect the battery in the Leaf. Even when I had my Volt and a Prius, I was aware of not storing them at a high SOC and obviously not parking it in the sun when shade was available.

Have 12 bars on mine cause when I looked at many of them I avoided any with less. And I was kinda surprised there are some 2015 with 10 bars and mileage that's not too high but who knows the past of those cars.

I'm thinking most lease people won't baby the car/batteries as much as those who own the car would but I dunno, I'm just speculating.

I don't know anyone with a Leaf or a BEV, I'm the only one amongst my family and friends.

Thank you again for your input.
 
Should I not worry about draining the battery down to LBW on a regular basis and charge every two days to 80%? I'm always concerned about having to run an errand after work, too :|

Neither charging to 100% and using it immediately, nor getting to LBW (as opposed to VLBW) but recharging immediately upon arrival, are bad for the pack. If you are putting it on the charge timer with less than 20% charge, then that is the scenario I'd avoid, along with charging to 100% when the pack has six or more temp bars showing. So try for one of the first two scenarios I just listed, and try to avoid the last two.
 
LeftieBiker said:
Should I not worry about draining the battery down to LBW on a regular basis and charge every two days to 80%? I'm always concerned about having to run an errand after work, too :|

Neither charging to 100% and using it immediately, nor getting to LBW (as opposed to VLBW) but recharging immediately upon arrival, are bad for the pack. If you are putting it on the charge timer with less than 20% charge, then that is the scenario I'd avoid, along with charging to 100% when the pack has six or more temp bars showing. So try for one of the first two scenarios I just listed, and try to avoid the last two.

As mine does so I'll also take that into consideration

Thank you LeftieBiker
 
LeftieBiker said:
Just to make it clear: The Leaf S always has the 6.6kw charger when it has the Quick Charge option, and all Leaf SV and SL models made from 2013 on have the 6.6 charger standard. Finally, ALL 2011 and 2012 Leafs have a 3.3kw charger.

Newbie here trying to understand - is the reverse true as well? As in if it’s an S with a 6.6 kW on board charger then it always has the Quick Charge option as well?
 
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