Level 2 Home Charging Question

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I don't believe the Square D QO panels support 240v single slot breakers, none of the slots. As said before, you can use what they describe as single pole tandem breakers, which again will free up space in your panel to allow you to use the double slot dual pole or 240v breakers.
Not sure if this search results link will work but if not I simply searched amazon for "QO breakers" and up popped up what I ended up with.
https://www.amazon.com/s/ref=nb_sb_ss_c_1_3?url=search-alias%3Daps&field-keywords=qo+20+amp+breaker&sprefix=qo+%2Caps%2C162&crid=16WC0EXGGJ692
 
jjeff said:
I don't believe the Square D QO panels support 240v single slot breakers, none of the slots. As said before, you can use what they describe as single pole tandem breakers, which again will free up space in your panel to allow you to use the double slot dual pole or 240v breakers.
Not sure if this search results link will work but if not I simply searched amazon for "QO breakers" and up popped up what I ended up with.
https://www.amazon.com/s/ref=nb_sb_ss_c_1_3?url=search-alias%3Daps&field-keywords=qo+20+amp+breaker&sprefix=qo+%2Caps%2C162&crid=16WC0EXGGJ692
Click to expand...

Exactly what I had to do on my Q0 panel at home. I ran out of spaces. So I bought a few twin aka tandem breakers to free up a few slots so I could install a 40 amp double pole breaker for the EVSE.

Works great.
 
MikeD said:
[A Tesla Poster MikeD found wrote:] "If you search this forum for melted UMC connectors, you may have your answer to your question ["New UMC 14/50 limited to 32 amps... WHY?!"] on the power reduction. The previous generation of UMC was designed in such a way with the removable plugs that you could get a poor connection. Coupled with a 40 amp output, that was a recipe for overheating. How many times were the plugs recalled and redesigned? Twice? That's some serious liability to sell a product that has heating/melting issues like that...I haven't seen the new generation unit yet, but I'm betting it runs cooler, and isn't prone to coming out of the wall receptacle as easy, etc... ".

I believe Nissan has avoided these issues with its portable EVSE designs, especially by apparently including a mechanism for detecting excessive temperature at the input plug and automatically reducing its EVSE's maximum current draw and/or shutting down with an appropriate light fault code. This is a major reason for my recommending only unaltered Nissan portable EVSEs for 2018 Leaf buyers who want just an L1 to carry with them.
Click to expand...

Interesting note about the temperature sensor! Thanks for that. Does anybody know more about this? I have been reading posts suggesting a Level 1 charger can be a fire hazard. Does this feature of the 2018 L1/L2 combo EVSE mean that level 1 charging from a standard outlet (a NEMA 5-15 120V) is "safe". I use quote marks as I gather safety is relative to one's personal electrical set-up. A slower charge or a shut down with a fault is unfortunate but something that can be dealt with. A garage fire is a much bigger issue. I'll take a look through the manual and see what I can learn.
 
Zugzwang: See pages CH45 and CH46 of the "2018 LEAF Owner's Manual": For a particular Fault light explanation: "...When the temperature of the electrical plug is too hot or the EVSE is unable to detect the temperature of the electrical plug. The EVSE is restricting the charging current for safety according to the temperature of the electrical plug. ...etc". All Nissan Leafs since 2013 have similar documentation, so it didn't just start in 2018 MY.

The Nissan's L1 EVSEs all document a maximum draw of 12a which is, for example, less than many hair dryers -- which to my knowledge don't monitor their plug's temperature.
 
What makes 120v charging problematic is old, poorly maintained or overloaded 120v circuits. If your circuit and outlet are in good repair, there's no problem.
 
Just wanted to add my experience.........

I've had my 2018 leaf for a month now. Originally, I was just going to stick with the 120V Level 1 option. However, being that 240V Level 2 seems to be at least 4 times faster, I decided on that option.

It's awesome that Nissan provides a charging solution that negates the requirement for a charging station. (Providing that you have the model and/or options that include the cable!!!)

I am lucky that:

1. I have a newer home with a 200 amp panel
2. The panel is located outside, on the garage wall!

So, the electrician installed the 14-50 receptacle in the garage wall, and ran around 1 foot of the thickest cable I've ever seen, to the breaker box. There, he installed a 50 amp breaker.

Haven't received the bill yet, but the quote was a maximum of $225. I've used him before, so I think it's actually going to be a little bit cheaper.

I think that for $200, the convenience of the L2 charging is well worth it.

Looking forward to seeing pics of the new LEAF!
 
Hi All,

I have my nissan LEAF 2018 for 3 weeks now and it starts to create a whirring or buzzing sound during L2 charging using my 240V outlet. The sound is coming from near the charge port. Any ideas on the potential cause? I use the provided EVSE charger made by Panasonic.

I also charged using ChargePoint L2 on public areas with no buzzing sound and same on chademo stations.

Thanks!
 
My panel is outside (common in Southern California). In theory my FPE 100A panel was good for 80A and my total non EV load was 13A. The breaker tripped on a 40A Toyota EV charging. Breakers are mostly thermal and when the sun heated it up the working breaker did not pass go.

Anaheim required a 200A panel when replacing so I got rid of the evil FPE panel and I have much more breaker space. I will never come close to pushing the panel but it is always good to have a reserve.
 
Can I ask what it cost to replace to main panel? I have a house with a 100 amp pushmatic and aluminum wire I am contemplating replacing and possibly pulling copper.
 
smkettner said:
Can I ask what it cost to replace to main panel? I have a house with a 100 amp pushmatic and aluminum wire I am contemplating replacing and possibly pulling copper.
Click to expand...

Expect anywhere from $1000 to $8000. Do you plan to do the work yourself, or hire an electrician? There are a lot of variables. Is it an indoor or outdoor panel? Is there a separate disconnect between the meter and the main panel? Is the meter part of the main panel? Is the main feed overhead or underground? Does your section of the main feed need replaced? Is a permit and inspection required to get the meter re-installed by the power company?
 
I have a natural gas house. My total loads including air is 13.1A. Assuming your panel is in good condition then 100A is fine.

I replaced my 100a FPE panel just because it was FPE.

I live in Anaheim and the city requires a 200A panel. !00A would have been fine but I do get more slots for breakers and the panel will be stress free.
 
smkettner said:
Can I ask what it cost to replace to main panel? I have a house with a 100 amp pushmatic and aluminum wire I am contemplating replacing and possibly pulling copper.
Click to expand...


Including the permit it was $2500. I have heard costs from $1500 to $3000. I am happy with the job. After painting the house you can not tell it was changed out. They did an excellent job matching the stucco.
 
Yea stucco is shot. Needs the screed installed and probably fully replaced up about 5' as stucco is just crumbling away around the entire perimeter. Getting new windows too (nail in) as long as the rest is getting done. Thanks for the tip. I will be meeting with my electrician next week and it helps to know what to expect.
 

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